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BogMonster

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Everything posted by BogMonster

  1. Hands up all Defender owners who are sick to death of slamming their seat belt in the door lock like this? Yep that would be most of you I guess it very quickly wrecks the belt webbing and is sooo easy to do when you get out. We have just had seat belt laws imposed on all roads here (previously only applied to main roads) and having shut my belt in the door at least 20 times in the last month or so I decided action was required.... So I made this from an offcut of thin alloy: One of the original door striker spacers is there for comparison, the alloy is a similar thickness. Remove one of the spacers from the striker and replace with the made-up plate, all you need then is a cable tie, and you have this: No more mangled seat belt I hope I made mine with an air nibbler but it could be done with even something as basic as a hacksaw and electric drill, it's dead easy and took me about 20 minutes to do, others may have come up with a similar idea but I haven't seen it before so thought I would post it up Next project: how to avoid removing the belt loops from every pair of jeans you own, on the same door striker...
  2. The offset on the 7x16 Disco steels is the same as the offset on 7x16 alloys like the Freestyle/Tornado, Deep Dish alloys etc that were fitted on Defenders, so you will be fine. In fact many Discovery Tdi's used four alloys and a steel spare. I run 265/75R16 BFG's on the alloys on my 90, it is a nice size which doesn't affect gearing and looks good too
  3. Welcome More info required.... I deduce from some bits of your post that it is probably a North American spec 4.0 litre V8 90? In which case a damp engine ECU may be the cause, I don't know where it is located on NAS 90's though as I've never seen one...
  4. A sound policy, if you ignore it, it will either get bored and go away or break properly then you can worry about what is wrong
  5. I take it that the price reduction was before the conversation deteriorated?
  6. Could be (but not limited to) split in the intercooler, a split in a different hose, turbo hose collapsed internally, blocked air filter, chipped turbo impeller, cracked manifold.... the list goes on What sort of noise, a whistle, a sort of whooshing compressed air noise, a whine, or what? Are there any other symptoms e.g. loss of power?
  7. I doubt I would ever use it, but I might buy one anyway, no idea what sort of price we are talking about though
  8. How about one with this on for a certain "Challenge" event Should go down really well
  9. I could say something else but I won't... Local to you? No...
  10. Personally I just don't use it and shout at anybody within the kill zone to get the F out of the way, its a bit like the difference between pointing a loaded gun at somebody with the safety on, and not pointing it at them. It means one less thing to carry and with plasma being so light I don't think it's necessary anyway. Excellent idea on a LR4x4 one though - does anybody know who might manufacture such a thing? we could maybe look at getting some done if it wasn't too expensive, would be good advertising for events
  11. "Bonjour. My ***&*(&^*& Land Rover has broken down can you help?"
  12. How on earth has it made any difference to off road, apart from not being broken like the last one ?
  13. Trilobites? My feelings too ... a word that rhymes with "rowlocks" sprang to mind when I read it! But who knows - he could be the next Albert Einstein
  14. Wheel bearings check/grease before you go? I would. Would also change fuel filter before you go. Obviously a grease up of props and stuff, and I'd take: a spare UJ a spare viscous coupling for the fan spare fan belt (never known a 300 one break but you never know - I carry an old one under the seat as a spare) some spare wheelnuts just for a few things you'd curse if you needed and didn't have. How common are LR dealers in the saaf of France?
  15. Did somebody utter the immortal words "copper pipe"
  16. A bird in the hand will probably do a semi-liquid gronk there if you leave it perched for too long...
  17. Hmmm I have seen this once before and I can't recall the fault (it was worse than yours, happening all the time) it either needed a new speedo head or a new sensor in the t/box, I think it was the latter. Not a very helpful answer is it, a bit like saying "this axe is broken" - "it either needs a new handle, or a new head"
  18. Jim, you may have just solved the problem of where I can get a replacement 76mm eye as a Bradley type thingy for my boat trailer at a reasonable price, thanks
  19. Free energy Thinks ... hmm .... if you build a V8 version of this first and put it in a 4x4 then everybody will have to love them won't they?
  20. Good photos, nice Discovery there The 90 towing 2 toyotas vid doesn't work, thought "oh goody only 3mb I'll download that one" but you only get about 5 sec and nothing happens...
  21. NATO hitch for me, though I currently have a problem in that the bit it is bolted to is made of Bacofoil All the reasons Jim said: you don't need to mess around with shackles on a tow rope (so nothing metal to break and fly around) good solid recovery point with a tensile strength of 20 something tonnes plus it fits the Sankey trailer I have and there is no pin to lose. And it looks much better than some poncy ball too, they have an air of "fitness for purpose" about them. Oh, and they are good for fending off Mitsubishis, as I found out with the Discovery recently when somebody in a Shogun Sport rear-ended me. Loud crunch, big hole in his plastic bumper, not a scratch on the Discovery I did a thread on LRE about it once upon a time, based on the old 90 (which actually had a crossmember, not a bit of paint disguised as one), I guess it is still on LRA somewhere but a re-post of it was done on this thread here Evidence of exactly how carp the rear crossmember is on the new ones can be found here Here is a photo of the next step... (not mine!) My front bumper will at some point be getting a couple of the Dixon Bate jaw type hitches as fitted to David Lang's crossmember in the photo above, but probably not until whatever year I get around to making a winch bumper, which like everything else at the moment will be some time after I get bored with pouring petrol into my boat
  22. Ah yes the Roadless, I have already told Nick that if he is ever thinking of selling it I want first refusal Tony I have never broken a CV or a halfshaft either, just worn out a couple of diff centres. That may change when I get around to fitting airlockers (which will be after I stop spending money on my boat, which looks like being a while yet ) Just curious really - mainly because most of the places I might break a CV, it would be somewhat inconvenient ... the top of a mountain ain't like breaking one at Slindon, towing it 1/2 mile to the road and calling the AA ... so any scraps of knowledge that might prevent such circumstances are filed away for future reference
  23. Yes I am sure it is stronger but how much? The point of my question being that if you have big tyres on and carp CV's like mine, and you really need to nail the loud pedal to get up something, will it make a big difference to the chances of breaking a CV trying to do it in a straight line rather than with some steering lock on? A lot of the terrain here is peat as you know, so is very slippery and you can sometimes get all the wheels spinning in 4th low - but under the peat there are often rocks ... and wheels can sometimes grip rather suddenly
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