BogMonster

Baja T/A or something?

I saw one like that here a few years back, coolant header tank had split round the seam where they often do, and the driver carried on driving it more or less till it seized completely ("there was a funny smell coming out of the heater so we stopped"...). All the plastic fittings on the engine block were melted. It was filled up with coolant and started with the header tank cap off, it "evacuated" the entire cooling system (through the header tank cap) in about three or four seconds which caused a bit of a scattering match among the assembled audience (spectacular though), and it sounded horrific - just huge metallic clanking noises a bit like somebody belting an anvil with a sledgehammer on every piston stroke. It went in the bin! The solder in the rad hadn't melted though - what is the melting temp of solder?! maybe this one had been even hotter, though I can't quite see how it could melt something on the rad? must have been hot combustion gases going through the rad or something as even if the engine block was red hot the radiated heat wouldn't be enough to melt solder, the vehicle would catch fire first! If it was combustion gases escaping into the rad to that extent I'd say it will be somewhat bladdered.... From cooked ones I've seen in the ten years I've been working around the vehicles I expect the head will be bent like a banana (the alloy heads are the first thing to go when they get too hot) and if its been that hot the pistons will probably have picked up in the bores too. What was the cause of the bang Les - oil loss or coolant loss? Nothing that five grand won't fix

Patience, MOG! ImpatientOlGit

Just been and "liberated" the speedo drive out of the gash t/box, as easy as Ralph said, take out the single small bolt holding the electronic transducer in, wiggle that out, then a small flat blade screwdriver under each side and the whole thing slides out with a bit of a tweak, the mini housing with the plastic drive gear fitted in to it. Just got to put it in the 90 but that will be a job for tomorrow. Thanks

cheers, nice and simple then never ever looked at one so just wondered before I get grubby

After a slight pause (ok 9 months!) I have located a suitable "donor" for the parts required for this Can somebody (Disco_Dunk?) please confirm exactly how much you have to do to get the gear out to change it - does it just come out through the hole that the speedo transducer plugs in to on the outside of the t/box, or does it require pulling the t/box to bits?? Rave has no mention of the drive gear in either the WSM or the LT230Q overhaul manual so I don't know whether you can access it easily (in which case probably a 5 minute job) or whether half the friggin transfer box has to be pulled to bits... in which case I probably won't bother! Also a bit wary of trying to dig it out through the hole and finding "sproinngggggg" bits disappear inside the t/box.... For anybody else interested the parts are: FRC3310 gear 20 teeth Blue for: - 90 except 205x16 tyre - Except 90 (This is LandRoverSpeak for "anything with 7.50s on" which would have been much clearer ) FRC 3311 gear 21 teeth Green for: - 90 except 50LE (no idea what the difference is) FRC3312 gear 22 teeth Yellow for: - 90" on 205x16 tyres FRC3313 gear 24 teeth Red for: - 90" 29D V8 Petrol Twin Carb (no idea why this is different either) I'm assuming mine will have the yellow gear fitted and with 265/75R16 on it will require the blue 20 tooth gear to get the speedo back on track. Handily, I know where there is a t/box out of a crashed 110 which should have the blue gear in

2078kg 542 g

Brilliant idea, will have to see if I can make something similar for the MM, seeing as I live under the ozone hole

Correct - I'd walk away.... without being to test drive you might spend loads of £££ then go for the first run and find the engine has an overheating problem, blah blah blah. Too much risk IMHO. The only option would be if it was REALLY cheap and you had the chance to acquire another one with a complete drivetrain e.g. an insurance writeoff the same age that had been expensively rear-ended, that might just about be a go - buy both of them and make 1 out of the 2. But I still wouldn't bother unless you have a lot of bored weekends you are trying to fill

The V8 rule only goes up to a certain age of engine, newer ones like wot is nestling gently in the engine bay of my DiscofairyTwo have no problems as the oil pump is a different type, one is gears and the other is rotors but I can't remember which is which I'm pretty sure that my last (1996 model) V8 had the later type of pump though, so it may be all the engines with a serpentine belt arrangement or perhaps even all 3.9s onwards. I think the way to tell is the suffix letter on the engine number, up to so-and-so suffix has one sort of oil pump and you need to be careful about it not draining out, so-and-so suffix onwards has the later pump so no problems. But as I don't have the so-and-so bit of information this post is only faintly useful really isn't it Edited to say that RAVE says the 94-98 age Discoverys have a gear oil pump so the old one that you need to be careful with must be the rotor type pump, but I can't find any info on the changeover point at the moment

Not too many pikeys in this part of the world thankfully I carry a 13mm ring spanner in everything, that way if you get an electrical short you can whip the battery off sharpish before it turns into a fire.

Now that is useful - to have almost everything in one box that you can pick up and throw into whatever vehicle you are going in. If I don't have tools with me its because I can't be bothered to pick them off the wall put them into a toolbox and then spend ages hanging them all up again afterwards but an all in one box sounds like a damn good idea

I'd always wondered why you could burn out a starter with a flat battery - interesting

Welcome back I had forgotten your title, now where IS that video clip

Excellent thread Ian another one for the tech archive

You can certainly fit the non cat Discovery pipe. It is available/suitable for all ages of Tdi Discovery as it was used right up to the last ones - my father has one built in July 1998 (production was supposed to stop on 30 June 98!) and his is a non cat non EGR model Not sure whether it is the same fit as a Defender one though... there is a difference but it may be limited to the flexy section on the Discofairy version - and I never really understood why exactly the same engine needed a flexy bit in a Discovery but not in a Defender...

Military surplus auction places? I don't know of any specific ones that sell JATE rings but they usually seem to sell most other stuff

"They only have to be lucky once. I have to be lucky every time. Bugger." ?

RIBnet users are an interesting bunch to argue with because there are some for and against over there. The "alternative 10 bullet points" theme is developing nicely though here Nothing to do with me

Likewise

Maybe that wouldn't be such a bad thing - it no longer has anything in common mechanically with any other vehicle in the range (the Discovery 2 was the last, with diffs, transfer box, gearbox, engine), so it might prevent future "improvements" based on "economies of scale"?

I had a 2001 Td4 manual Freelander back in 2001, I ran it for six months and while I loved it to drive, I found it wasn't actually what I needed. So I changed it for the 2002 Discovery I have now. I don't regret the change at all - the Discovery is what I always wanted! Mine is a V8 but the Td5 is a good car too, though I would prefer a manual if it was me. If you are going to a Td5 auto you may find it sluggish after driving a Td4 manual Freelander, because those really do have some get up and go, and you might also find the Td5 rather noisy by comparison. But in virtually every other respect, I would prefer the Discovery, I always felt the Freelander was built down to a price and felt a bit like it, the build quality, interior materials etc, seemed more like a 200Tdi Discovery. I still like getting into a Td4 Freelander because they are good to drive, but I wouldn't consider going back to one. Fuel consumption will be higher - especially on an auto - my Td4 used to do 37mpg and you could knock 30% off that for a Td5 auto, give or take. Servicing - probably not that much in it. I'd go for it if I were you

Cols, Get the original factory bits and fit the proper storage bin - as fitted to the 5 seat models. I have them in mine and they are excellent. Can take photo if required but basically it is a big lidded plastic bin ideal for tow ropes seat covers tools whatever....

I know. I also have a Bonatti Grey 90

We really need to know what engine and what ECU you are talking about i.e. is it a Td5 (probably not if ECU is in engine bay as it should be under the seat) or a 3.9 V8 or something else entirely? I can't think of a Defender with the engine ECU in the engine bay offhand