Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Al I can add to this is this:
WAY to much throttle!
Daan
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Thanks, I might take you up on the offer when the engine or gearbox is out again.
The td bellhouse has the advantage of the large 1/2" fitting at 45° which I already use for a large breather pipe, very much needed if you go wading with a piping hot clutch.
Daan
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I think that would have worked actually. The link that ralph gave, shows the problem of the plug being in a horizontal axis. The owner hasnt thought of the setup problem by the looks of it, so I am not the only one.
Anyway, the landrover has now passed the MOT, so after 16 months of being stationary, I finally can drive it again.
Looking forward to lots of snow this winter!
Daan
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On the subject of freewheeling hubs: I used to run them on my series 3 and they were great; noticeable noise reduction, because a unloaded set of gears is what makes the noise. Running the hubs with 255/85/16 mud terrrains with a fairly powerful 2.5 petrol. Never had any problems myself.
I did add grease nipples on the top kingpins to make sure these kept lubricated. The result of this was very light steering.
Daan
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unless of course it was loving crafted on a designa chassis a decade or so ago when all those sort of things were 'acceptable' by most of the land rover fraternity, unlike now where if you have a 'hybrid ' you seem to be the pariah and be accused of driving a ringer or worse a stolen truck or parts thereof
Well said, reading this thread reminds me why I rarely post here
Lee
I personally feel these qoutes aren't quite right: first of, calling a ringer from just seeing a picture is giving an opinion without knowing what is going on.
Also, being called a pariah for driving a molested landy hasnt happened to me just yet, but It could be that I am arogant enough to ignore it
.Then saying that this forum is full of these people I simply dont think is true. You only need to take one look at the members vehicles section where it appears that the more molesting the better, some dont even using landrovers in the first place. I agree some members do like to hit it with the sva brush, without neccesarily knowing whether it needs it or whether the car is being used on the road. One good thing about this forum is that if you do need one, there are people on here that actually have done this and can help out.
Daan
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Right, thanks for the replys again, I came up with a different solution: there are 4 equally spaced holes in the bottom serpentine pulley. Put 2 long m8 bolts in the horizontal opposing ones, and than put a spirit level on these and once it shows level, it is a pretty accurate way of showing TDC. I set up the pump with the pin, and the result is a good running engine. I think it is as good as it gets but if the engine comes out again for what ever reason, I will be fitting a 200 TDI bellhouse.
Daan
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Right, time for an update. I received the timing kit with 3 pins, for all 3 landrover diesels (2.5, 200 tdi 300 tdi).
The first problem I found is that none of them fitted to the wading plug thread. This I got solved by having a hole drilled in a sumpplug. However, this turned out to be a waste of time, because the timing pin doesnt actually touch the flywheel. As it happens, the wading plug on a 2.5 is in a horizontal axis, while the tdi is on a vertical axis. It turns out that the 2.5 doesnt actualy use the wading plug hole at all, but has a dedicated hole on the side of the flywheel housing, about 45 deg from TDC. The pins fit to this perfectly, but the pump is at best 45 degree out. So no pin is any good at all. Dans suggestion is no good either, because you cant see the groove. (I now do understand the suggestion, it would work if the wading plug was in a vertical axis, and you could have seen the groove).
So, snookered basically. I need an acurate way to find TDC. I tryd removing nr1 injector and put a measurement clock in the hole to find TDC, but because the injectore sits on an angle, this is pretty flaky. Fitting a 200 TDI bellhouse would solve the problem, but not keen for obvious reasons.
So who has got any better ideas?
Daan
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I have found that greasing them can lead to demise shortly afterwards. I put this down to the grease pushing dirt in old UJs to where it causes more catastrophic wear.
I find that a bold statement; Millions of uj are produced with that nipple on it, and now you are stating that using the grease nipple is a bad thing.
I reckon that the failure in that vid is the result of grease hardening up, causing blockage in the feed holes. The big problem with the design of U/j is that there is one feed point for 4 bearings; and inevatebly, the grease is going to find the path with the least resistance, and more often than not you end up greasing one or two bearings.
My trick of greasing them is to use a g clamp to clamp one set of bearings, so no grease can go that path and is forced to go the other path. If it still only greases one bearing, you can force the uj in the opposite direction with a crow bar to close of that path and grease the offending bearing. And generally keep greasing untill fresh grease comes out. I also use the blue coloured grease, as it doesn't harden up as much. I dont recall replacing a u/j in the last 5 years.
Daan
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Timing kit which contains both pins now on order (dont like the eyeballing idea Dan!) . Thanks for the replies.
Daan
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Morning Daan
Did you slacken the three FIP bolts when you fitted the new belt? and the other thing I'd check is that the air intake/ boost side of the manifold is all tight and no restrictions....I have found birdnests in airfilter boxs of LandRovers with snorkels that have been laid up for a while
If the 2.5TD flywheel housing pins the 300 flywheel at tdc then it should be fine to pin it like that
cheers
Steveb
Yes, I did slacken of the bolts. Your comment at the bottom is the question I am asking. Anyone knows?
daan
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Right, I rebuild my 300 tdi engine, which I started up today. All sounded well at tickover, but when I put my foot down (no load), there emerged a ridiculous amount of black smoke, while running like a dog. It never used to smoke, and the pump has never been turned up.
This makes me believe that the timing isnt quite right. I set it up with a 9.5 MM drill bit in the pump and with the woodruff key in the crank facing north, eyeballed as you do.
I now am considering to buy a timing kit to do this properly. THis, however represent me with a problem: It is a 300 TDI but with a 2.5 TD bell housing to make it bolt up to the LT77 box. So which timing pin will fit? Is it the 300 tdi or the td, Is the thread for the wading plug different or is the diameter of the pin different? Or have I snookered myself into a mess?
Also, any recommendations on which one to get, sealey or difflock or just go to a dealer, what has worked well for others? Th other thing revealed from a search on this very forum is a reverse switch from my gearbox as atimingpin. Sounds daft, but would it work for me?
Daan
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Daan, where is Carting Nord again? I seem to remember it being in about the same place as the campsite by the Porsche curves that all the Danes go to. I remember having a rather interesting afternoon in there when we snuck in their camp to find beer and watch the Grand Prix qualifying......
Yes, it is near the porsche curves, inside the circuit.
One more practical comment (not neccesarrily one with you petrolheads will agree with): By far the quickest, cheapest and easiest way to get there is by train. I went on my way down by train and it was leaving at 7:00 from my doorstep to be there at 14:00 in time for the start from memory. The return was by beer van in a jam of petrol heads and seemed to take forever (good fun but long winded).
Daan
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I went in 2002 (the year when it rained twice; once for 10 hours, and then for 12 hours). the campsite we used was called carting nord. I can check with my mates who go every year for details. Good do, when your single and it dont rains, I reckon.
Daan
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just put a wheel (or 2) under the truck, as fridge says, a lot of space and weight to carry with you.
Daan
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The idea with my Series is to make it different. TDi engine, I have the Defender wings, bonnet, screen ready to go on. I have defender doors
But the best parts of a series are the wings, bonnet and screen. The defender look is just wrong imo, which Is why I never bought one.
Daan
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THe problem youre having is that with 173:1 ratio, the drag in the system can be quite high, combined with the rather carp design of some drum bearings I have seen, you could easily loose 50 % of torque in the system, so just finding out the pull of the winch doesn't tell you much. Did you ask david bowyer this question, caus I bet he knows things like this.
Daan
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One way of doing this is to use 6 hole swivels, to drill 7 offset holes or vice versa, and not bother with welding them up. I was intending to do this at some stage, but never bothered in the end. I believe that castor correction is a nicety but no necesity. It is worth having for comp safari for sure, so you put more camber on in corners, but for challenge cars it never is a problem. If anything, it reduces the groundclearance under the steering rod and there fore gives you more bend steering rods.
daan
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I would taper it down, as you go further away from the 90 dia entry. The pipercross one is a pretty bad design in this respect. The fact that the intake length will be different for the 3 throttle bodies doesnt really matter I dont think, since the intake air comes back together in the plenum.
Daan
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The shafts look the same, but they aren't unfortunately. Been there already.
daan
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Mine are still perfect, survived RFC, Ladoga, lots of uk events, road work. still the same set. Mint condition, apart from some surface rust. To give an indication of the abuse the car has had in russia, all the suspension bushes were shot and several holes in the panhard brackets and radius arm mounts were elongated beyond belief.
I am not sure whether they have been mismatched with the springs. my springs and dampers are pretty soft, but I intentially did it that way, because the radius arm setup front and rear ads quite a lot of roll stiffness, so you can run softer springs as a result. this works well with the procomps.
Daan
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So what shocks are current favourites then? I've been running pro comps for years....
Jon
Mine have been on for 9 years and still going very well. What is the reason people dont like pro comps?
Daan
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Years ago when I was at uni, I had a tour in a shock absorber factory (I am pretty sure it was Monroe). They manufactured shock absorbers for car manufacturers, their biggest customer being Landrover, but also others. They also produced replacement parts on a different line. Apart from being blue rather than black, they looked completely different.
When the technical guy did his presentation I asked him the question: Since there is a big difference in price in the part coming from the dealer as opposed to from Monroe, why is the price difference so great, they come out of the same factory after all? He replied: the genuine parts have to pass several tests to make sure it is up to scratch wereas the replacement component doesn't have to pass any test at all. So in good english we make proper stuff for the manufacturer and we make junk for the rest.
So there you go, the story of buying OE rather than genuine was explained there.
Daan
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If you use manifold pressure on a tdi, nothing will ever happen, since this gives you the turbo pressure, and what you need is a vacuum.
Daan
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Did the crank have a groove were the seal runs? Usualy if the sealing surface is worn this way, the new seal will wear out very soon. You can have it reground if needed, but its crank out of the engine then. I have done this seal in the past, and from memory, it is a split seal, which have to bend out to fit over the crank. A bad construction to be honest, I was advised at the time to heat the seal up in boling water, to make the splitting the seal open easier and less likely to create tears in the rubber. Another thing: there are 2 cork seals on bith sides of the bearing cap, which are almost guarenteed to leak at some point. I was advised to not use these but fill up the voids with dow corning sealant and be done with it. It has worked, and my s3 was leak free for some time....
Daan
2nd NOVICE CHALLENGE
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
I wonder if it does the name -elephants mud hole- justice........
Daan