Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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What he meant to say was: we dont have parts for landrovers and you dont look like you need any new tyres soon (which I dont stock anyway and cant be arssed to order them in). I wont make any money on you because it is a sorted car, so with the 50% discount it is costing me money to take you car on.
person I'm not that keen on, but thats what they do.
Daan
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It is to stop fumes come out of the breather. You are actually trying to create vacuum when the oil pick up is not covered, in which case the scavenge does run dry. It all depends on how much blowby you have, the one I was involved in had lots of blowby, creating lots of problems.
Daan
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No atmospheric connections to the sump, You need a vacuum in the crankcase. In the end we just fitted another scavenge stage and connected it to the rocker cover and dumped it in the top of the tank. That solved our problems, but it took a long time to get there.
Daan
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Yes, Thanks very much for putting on the event. We had a good weekends offroading without breakages. We were of to a bad start when I decided to remove the cambelt cover wading plug and a liter of oil drained out of that. It was 4 pm friday, so a very spirited cambelt change had to happen before we set off.
Anyway, great event for us.
Thanks from Daan, Heleen and Arnout (both came over from holland for the weekend)
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I think trying to merge championships together is a good idea. If you only do local rounds of 3 championships you are otherwise collecting points in 3 championships which all go to waste, because you cant do very well in any of them.
But to get 3 championships to agree on a set of regulations is like nailing jelly to a wall, because no one is going to give an inch.
Now we are back to the age old problem were everyone does its own thing. I expected that the MSA involvement would have helped here, but that has not worked out like that, and it appears 99% of the competitors run a mile from anyone even mentioning it. I think if all clubs can unite into something, whatever it is called, it would help the sport.
These are more generalizations, but I reckon Mudmonsters has a format that people seem to like and regulations that make sense.
If other clubs follow suit we can have a championship that works.
Daan
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* CAD = Cardboard Aided Design
Just to make your day, I'll have for breach of my patent.
I normally get the cold caller from india ringing while I am lying under the car trying to lift a diff and expecting a very important phone call!
Daan
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Plus, you wont have that swarf heading for your face, read this carefull Nigel
Daan, No lathe.
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Interesting, was looking at EMU's myself, but these could be a good option as well. Is there any adjustability on them?
Also, there doesnt seem a 10" stem/stem version available, does you catalogue show dimensions for OEM replacement shocks?
Daan
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waste gate opening too early? Daan
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4.5 k is a lot to spend for many people, usually on personal finance. The converting to standard comment is definately valid, 3.5K looks a lot more attractive for many. Than a few hundred pounds here and there for the accesories will make you your money eventually.
Daan
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saving weight?
Fresh air is lighter, nigel.
Daan
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Right, I have now gone round the houses, bought a few which turned out an inch or so too long and found several suppliers who wanted to sell me a box of 200 nuts (of the wrong type anyway), I have now located the correct one:
It is a shallow castle nut m22 x 1.5, and it fits like it was made for it. I payd about 16 quid for 4 of these, ordered through my local kramp dealer (importer wouldn't sell direct), but this dealer is walking distance from where I live.
The correct shallow version turned out to be almost unobtanium, but this lawnmower part saved the day for this problem.
Daan
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The advantage is that the shock is protected by the spring and it is exactly vertical, which means it is in line with the wheel movement and therefore more effective. Disadvantage is that you are limited in travel, because off the shock touching the turret on full rebound if you dislocate a lot.
My shocks are like this, you cant use front turrets if you use a normal rear body, so some engineering is needed.
Daan
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Have a look at the sender; if it has a green plastic bit, it is of a discovery. It needs to have the black plastic bit, from a defender (sorry, no partnumber handy). I had exactly the same problem as yourself.
Daan
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Max-ie, that was not a commercial test was it? In my experience, the test is a piece of cake. The paperwork involved before you are invited is not, you need to prove ownership of all components.
my write up:
Daan
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And its half the speed of the crank.
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Some expensive options, but anything well engineered allways is. Is there mileage in beefing up the door to take the weight of the wheel? Never carried a wheel on the back door myself, so not sure what all the problems are. I know a landrover wheel is very heavy though....
Daan
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Strimmer / chainsaw fuel tank tecnoligy might be a better way to go, have the pickup waighted and free to move within the sump, Then graverty is working for u, and pulling the pickup into the oil
If it works, than yes why not. If I am totally honest, I would explore every possible avenue to avoid going dry sump myself. Although you are probably able to make it work, there are an awfull lot of scenarios I can think off that have disastrous consequences, that I would have (even) more worries when driving the thing offroad. for example fan Belt failure normally is a bit of an inconvenience, but solved in about 10 minutes, off you go. A belt failure for your scavenge pump is a dead engine. So you really need to have a very good reason to do it on an offroad vehicle.
Daan
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OK, thanks for clearing that up.
daan
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Indeed, if you have oil, it works ok, if you have foam, your engine nukes in a matter of seconds. This I have seen happening 4 times on a row on an engine dyno, so be really sure what you do before starting the thing up. If you are on a steep angle, one pickup will pick up 100% oil, the other will pick up 100% air > resulting in 50-50 oil air. You put that back in the engine and there will be tears before bedtime. even in normal use, the pickups are never fully covered in oil, and you probs have a 50-50 oil air rate.
The angle/time argument doesnt stack up to me; as long as the oil pickup is picking up oil youre ok. I only once had a case of the oil light flickering because of angle, that was downhill vertical, hanging of a rear winch
Daan
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good point, can anyone check? I dont have an a frame, so I cant do that.
daan
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unecesarry chat & swearing removed.
Play nice and on topic, chaps.
Daan
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Ralph, that is the imperial, much smaller nut which is used on the earlier diffs. I really dont fancy a nyloc for this application, as a castle nut with a splitpin would allow me to sleep at night, having seen the effects of this nut coming loose.
I cant be the only one with this question, surely?
Daan
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Hi there,
I am hitting a bit of a brick wall at the mo; I have a set of kam r&ps fitted to my car. Now I am fitting one of niges diff flanges and a new seal, I come back to an old problem, being the M22 nuts. The pignion has a hole for a splitpin, which I want to utilize. So I need an m22 fine castle nut. The one that KAM suggests is LR partno. 90608545. I ordered these, and they turn out to be ordinary locknuts (with a squashed end to provide the locking action). A quick phonecall to KAM confirmed that this is what they use.
I really dont like to realy on these, and previously, I bought a large nut and just drilled a holes through it in roughly the right position (I know) to fit a splitpin. Does a landrover part exist for a castle nut?
I did find these: http://www.fullermetric.com/products/nut/din935hex_castle_nut.html
but not sure the castelation is in the right position, or whether they have stock.
Anyone else any good suggestions?
Daan
Tow vehicle
in Getting out and about
Posted
That's a good reminder of what can happen.
Daan