Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Since the thread had some interesting tech in it, I moved this to the technical archive, rather than it dropping of the page and disapear into the valley of darkness. Also on request of our series molesting guru, mr fridge.
Met vriendelijke groeten,
Daan
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I spoke to a dutch guy once who ran a diesel v8 6.2 with an lt 85. this got noisy very soon, and then was rebuilt using needle bearings in a few places, rather than ball bearings. From what I understood, thins were fine from then on. Not sure what other weak points there are with the lt 85, but an option to consider?
Daan
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And in 99.999999% of practice too* - this is exactly how I'd do it, allowing you to kill the winches from any convenient stop switch too.
* You're very theoretically left with mechanical damage to the solenoids stopping them from disengaging, but I doubt this has ever happened?
Not when you have the problem of contacter weld it wont.
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I did think about the filter idea, but I reckon a magnet in the reservoir would be much more effective. I havent quite looked at this, and because there is no drain plug, the usual way is not possible. But it cant be that hard to incorporate methinks.
daan
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I have a detent ball and spring so that you know when it is properly in or out.
Daan
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In addition to those who seem to know the car's previous prowess, by the 'Q' it seems to have been registered properly at some point, indicating that who ever built it did so properly.
And thats more than 99% of the challenge boys can be asked to do nowadays.
Daan
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If you phone the importer directly, in holland, they usualy give you a good deal.
Daan
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This is what I use to freespool my pto winch for years. I use a proper push pull cable to do this job, because the forces involved can get pretty large if the mechanism get clogged with mud, but the principle works very well. Very usefull mod, worked in Ladoga very well to save the codriver running backwards and forwards for miles on end.
Daan
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I think they look pretty funky, and at 155 pounds, for a casting which then has to be final machined plus a thick steel plate wich has to be drilled and tapped is pennys imo. they wont go on my truck, but I bet they are selling well.
daan
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The 109 v8 had cvs as standard, so that could be a good starting point. as for an arb, ashcroft should be able to help here, the front shafts, great basin rovers in the us should be able to do.
Daan
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Just splice an eye in the end of the rope, wrap it around the drum and loop the rope through it. This stops it coming out when you hanging of it. I also use a bolt in my ep 9 drum through this eye to lock the rope to the drum, so you can still winch up again to release it.
The whole painting idea is a waste of time when you plan to get muddy.
Daan
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Cheaper and heavier. The spidertrax axles are pretty much scratch build, where as a dana 60 can be pulled out from underneath an old clonker or can be build up from off the shelf dana parts. They are seriously heavy though. You can now buy aluminium dana 60 difhousings, but price will go up. The price of say 10 K for a set of axles is a big hit, but considering what has to be produced bespoke to get to a complete new lightweight axle, you can see where that money goes.
Daan
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In my rather humble experience of common rail diesels, the problem you will find is that the injectors, apart from being hard to control, also require a lot of power (high current and voltage) to work correctly. I doubt the megasquirt would be able to supply this, so some kind of amplifier would be needed.
I am sure it can be done, its just that noone to my knowledge has succeeded. I would be very interested in seeing it done.
Diesel is the future, as shown in Le mans and touring car racing these days.
Daan
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they look like portal axles.
Daan
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as mentioned here, I wouldnt bother with a course, just go through the tutorials and youre away. It cant be that hard, judging from some people I have seen using it.
Daan
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There was nothing done for emisions on mine. 2008, engine a 300.
Daan
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I wouldnt use any of these valves. the problem is that your wheel base isn't correct for any of the setups these are calibrated for. I dont think you can adjust them either, which may well result in a lot of money spent to find out it isn't right. There is also not much point in looking at the zeus comments, since their piston dia wont be the same as what you are running.
I run a 300 TDI brake pedal and master cylinder, 46 mm piston calipers at the front (the large 110 ones), and standard 90 calipers at the back. I dont use the series brake switch valve, which is completely pointless in my opinion.
This worked well, however on the SVA test resulted in a fail due to the rears locking up just before the front (on 35" simex).
To combat the problem I fitted this:
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=38&m=b
you can adjust this untill its right.
Daan
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On a slightly different note: When ever I wear eye protection, they always suffer from steaming up after a while, reducing my vision to almost zero. Anyone got any bright ideas for this?
Daan
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If I post up my first fabrication project, the flaming would be unbearable.
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HOFS?
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If you run on carbs, there is always going to be a problem of the ventury strangling the engine. there is a ventury in the carb (albeit variable) and when adding a lpg system upstream of this, you need to have an even smaller venturi to make it work. thats why an EFI engine will work better in this application. The above isn't quite true if you run an LPG injection system though. The question about running 100% LPG: yes you can, but as mentioned dont run out. I have tried running my LPG landy to Wales once and managed completely on the way down because it was a weekday, but the return on sunday had to happen almost completely on petrol because the gas stations were all closed on weekends.
This was a long time ago, but a problem like that will happen one day and then it is tears before bedtime...
Daan
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If you want more power, it works. If you want to enjoy your engine for a long time than dont bother. K&n filters and the foam type filters are used in motorsport a lot because of the advantages it gives. But for example in the WRC, you're engine only needs to last 2 events, so more wear in the bores due to more dust is acceptable.
If you find this acceptable on your car, go for it, otherwise dont.
Daan
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I would go with the 3.54 gearing myself and see how it goes. It might be a bit tall, but you can downshift for a hill if you have to. The advantage of running your gearing nice and tall is that your consumption will potentially improve, as the TDI runs at a more favourable RPM, near max torque.
If youre worried about low range, you can always fit an S1/S2 transfer box which drops low box by 20 procent. I ran that for years this way behind a 2.5 litre petrol with plenty of power.
Daan
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2off xxl t shirts please.
Daan
What happened to the 'leaf over mod' thread?
in Series Forum
Posted
Well, you can reply to this thread, and I will merge it later on, once we have finished discussing the subject.
daan