Daan
-
Posts
4,949 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
Another question, slightly related: does anyone ever use a fuse in their electric systems? I know a isolator is meant to do that, but it only works if smoke start appearing from various components, after which you are meant to turn it off, but it could be way to late by then. I can imagine a situation were you are winching uder water, water entering the motor and then shorting the whole system. You wouldnt notice what is going on untill it is too late and your battery is toast also.
Just a thought.
Daan
-
On a slightly different note, but still isolator related, I have killed one of these:
It has a dodgy contact inside, and wont conduct enough to start the engine. I am pretty sure it is due to mud and sand collecting inside (judging from the grinding noise when I turn it)after being dunced under water several times.
So the question is whether each of the options pictured in this thread (thinking of going for the first one pictured)is actually proper waterproof.
Daan
-
Hi all
what weighs less wolf, 130 or modular wheels?
I am pretty sure standard landrover wheels are the lightest from these, so the 130 would be favourite. You do need to add the weight of a tube, since they require it.
Daan
-
spanner 14 fits better.
Daan
-
I dont bother reading these threads anymore, they always end up in arguments unfortunately. I supposed it is good there is a warning about it for prospective buyers, but thats it, it can drop of the page no problem imo.
daan
-
Glad everyone thinks the classes are fair.
I'll put up a list soon, just need to decided best way to do it as LR4x4 doesn't allow you to edit old posts, were having another website upgrade soon so will probably pop a dedicate page on there.
feel free to put up a list for the events individually.
-
To be honest, I dont think the suzuki transfer box should have any problem coping with the torque, it seem to live behind some pretty potent engines with a gearbox gearing it down as well. Is it not simply a case of rebuilding what you have got?
Daan
-
I thought the rule was that you can drive any other insured car, but you are covered 3rd party only. So the case of the man who drives his wives car uninsured makes no sense to me. In any case, whenever you see a cop program, and an inunsured driver gets pulled, he never has it taxed or moted either, so quite what is achieved here is not clear to me.
-
That is a very sensible class system, well done for that.
Daan
-
another in a long list of reasons to move abroad. I can see 4x4's being forced out completely in the next 20 years
Not being funny, but which country would you think of going? Any
EU country would be out of the question, because they are generally worse than the uk in terms of nit picking and ridiculous regulation.
Daan
-
I run a cheapo square auxilary light inside the car, shining through the small rear window. This way, you dont knock them off in the woods (like sliding in a tree
).The type doesn't matter too much I think, but what I have done is that the reverse light is the same type as the front auxilary lights on the roll cage, so you always carry a spare when you knock one of these.
Daan
-
As the title says, I rebuild my 300tdi, assembled it with a new head gasket and torqued it up to the correct torque and angle.
I remember in the old days, you had to run the engine for a while for it to settle and then re-torque the bolts to fininsh of the job. I havent heard of this for ages and no guide makes a mention of this anymore. Is re-torqueing the bolts old school?
Daan
-
Nige, since you are so maintenance contious, Slight problem with any subaru flat four (or so I am told), is:
replace sparkplugs=engine out.
Apart from that Subaru is a very good car.
Daan
-
Something with narrow tyres; my 206 is great in the snow, I reckon mainly due to the skinny 165 tyres. Maybe just get some narrow wheels and tyres when you need it. Still, the landy is awesome in the snow, so I just drive that as long as the roads are white.
Daan
-
Merry christmas and a happy new year.
Daan
-
You can do the lhd-rhd trick, but there are a few other problems; first off the panhard rod is in the way, which is a total pita to solve. Another problem is that you reverse ackerman, meaning that the outer wheel steers further than the inner wheel, opposite from what is should be. In reality, many people have done this and not found it a problem. Also, bacause it is at the front, it potentially is a bit more fulnerable, even if it is a bit higher. I looked at doing high steer arms, as your original question, but only having 2 bolts at the top makes it a bit weak. I havent found the right solution for the problem myself, so still battling with the same problem as yourself.
Show us your solution when your done....
Daan
-
I ran the 13.5s on 8.5" rims and they didn't look out of place.
Daan
-
Good effort on the transfer box!
Daan
-
M8090 Creepy Crawler
Appears to be L Rated
Mickey thompson Baja Claw - 35 x 12.50 x 16 is a Q
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/truck.php?item=BajaClawRadial
Nige
This is also the tyre of choice for the outback challenge, so it is good on sand as well. This makes it a really good all round tyre.
The other thing I found is that all of a sudden the steering became incredibly light, which was the opposite from what I expected being so wide. Also the handling became like it was on rails, compared to the old simex I was used to.
Daan
-
I was very impressed with the mudzilla (which is a copy of the mickey thompson). It has the big v-shape which makes it selfcleaning increadibly well. It came actually close to what a simex could do, and very good road manners compared to a simex (and half the noise).
To illustrate what I mean look at this picture:
Stuck up to the axles in sticky mud, but the tyres completely open.
The mudzilla is very wide (13.5) but the mickey thompson has more choices, for a bit more pennys.
Daan
-
I bought 2 dead calipers from a rangerover for 2 pounds each on the old sodbury sortout (version with vented discs). You can take them apart and use the spacer in your larger caliper jobbies - they fit- and throw the rest away. You also need to buy longer bolts.
Daan
-
Another one with swift cover is driving abroad. You only get 3 days. We went abroad for 4 weeks this year, costing an
additional 40 pounds.
Daan
-
I personally stick with linear springs. As long as you have enough bump travel, it wont bottom out too soon and you will have a good feel of whats coming when cornering.
I run radius arms front and rear, which add on roll stiffness, but not on normal (flat road) suspension stiffness. I also took particular care to achieve the static deflection of the springs the same front to rear, resulting in totally balanced suspension. This works very well, and despite only 10" travel, lifting a wheel is very uncommon.
Daan
-
A lot of what is now being discussed in this thread has been done before, in various ways.<div><br></div><div>Toyota have licensed one of the simple systems developed by a company in Aus (their systems go up to much more advanced suspensions as used in world rally cars for example).</div><div><br></div><div>The one Toyota use is a passive (not active) system and basically front and rear anti-roll bars have double acting hydraulic actuators in place of links on one side. The front and rear hydraulic actuators are connected by hydraulic lines in a X manner.</div><div><br></div><div>When the vehicle body rolls to one side (cornering or side slopes) the forces in the actuators are in the same direction so no flow occurs in the X lines so the anti-roll bars act together. When one wheel is pushed up, then flow can occur in the X lines and so the anti-roll bars don't restrict articulation.</div><div><br></div><div>A similar system was on sale in Aus many years ago but it went further by using a hydraulic control valve in the X lines. The control valve was mechanical operated by a pendulum so as to maintain the body level.</div><div><br></div><div>My bushie had (now being re-built but on hold due to moving interstate) coilovers at each corner, each with a pair of strut air springs above a normal coilover spring. My aim was to connect the air lines to the top air springs in an X fashion (front left to rear right and front right to rear left) - they are normally deflated (lower suspension), but when air is added to raise the height the X linking provided forced articulation - note because the air pressure is equalised the weight distribution and size of air springs need to balance. </div>
isn't that exactly what the disco td5 has?
Daan
).
Mog/LR Hybrid axle
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Looks a neat way of doing things. Is there any milage in keeping the landrover swivel and just bolt on the portal box? Not familiar with the mog stuff. Daan