Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I don't understand the problem here, someone put a heap on ebay (or such like), someone else was too lazy to go and have a look at it before he bid (or couldn't be asked to have a look underneath), now he found out it's a heap. It's clearly a heap, but then jeez, don't buy it. forget the legalitys and consequences, either flog it or re-chassis it and chalk it up as experience.
Or do I sound harsh?
Daan
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After a miserable two years my girlfriend wants to come home, no, not miserable with me but work, life, so called friends etc, plus the taxes are crippling on a 200Tdi Discovery
won't bore with intricacies but it's taken it's toll enough to make such an enormous decision!Question is, what to do about the Disco exactly? Obviously it will be the barge home but then what?
So much to arrange still but this is something I kind of need an objective view on.
Nigel, I hate to say this, but: I told you so.....No seriously, if you like cars and hate bureaucracy, holland just isn't for you! there is a reason I fled the place.
Just import the car, it is worth too much for you, and you enjoy reasonable road tax.
What sort of job are you looking for?
Daan
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Why do you need that part? are the ali blocks on their own not strong enough? I can see a lot of mud accumulating in that tank guard, which brings me to the next thing: do you need the tank guard? I know you want the removable towbar, but to add that kind of weight to it seems a bit overkill. Sorry to be negative on your build at this stage, which does look a very high standard.
Daan
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Since noone answered: I never hear of that collar going south, usually the only thing that brakes is the diff cross. There is a reinforced version of this which should make it pretty bulletproof.
What engine are you planning to use?
Daan
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The swarf does look quite big, how long ago was it checked before? I must say though, I have magnets in the diff as well, and the amount of swarf in these (and the gearboxes) is always more than I think is reasonable. Better on the plug than in the gearbox, so I suggest just clean it and refill with clean oil.
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Thanks for the honest explanation of your personality. And your comment made a great start of my year!
Has anybody else noticed ash is not reading anymore? I suppose there has only been one on topic comment about VNT turbos so far....
Daan
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After rebuilding my challenge truck and buying a house (much bigger rebuild project) I decided to fit a tow bar. Recently there's been a increase of vehicles towing trailers getting pulled over and licences and weights checked so trying to find some information on what I can legally tow with it.
The vehicle is a 86 truck cab 90, weighing more than it should due to a roll cage, pair or 8274's and lots of other little bits of extra weight. I intend to get the vehicle weighed so I have a figure to work off.
I've looked on the GOV.UK website and it says the maximum weight a vehicle can tow, including the vehicle is the "train weight".
It also says
"The gross train weight is the weight of the fully-loaded car plus fully-loaded trailer and must not be exceeded"
Does any one know where I can find the gross train weight of a 86 truck cab 90?
I have found that a 2.2tdci truck cab 90 max train weight is 5900kgs but I assume this will be different and would like to know for sure.
the 5900 weight refers to any 90, and breaks down to 2400 vehicle weight and 3500 trailer weight.
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From your description, i suspect your change has left it in "full boost" position, but the stock tune (max fuel etc) is mild enough that your not getting much smoke when off boost, but have had a big increase to off boost fuelling (as the pump thinks its on boost) and as such much more power in the low part of the rev range. That change can be acheived with the pump working as it should however, via the various adjustments, while also increasing top end power. Unfortunately your approach wouldnt work if you wanted a decent hike in power.
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It is indeed in the full boost position, and this is what I want it to do. As mentioned, there is no smoke to speak off, and therefore the enrichment is not that great. There is still the RPM regulator in the pump that stops it getting max fuel, as you are not at high revs while doing it.
I don't agree that the result can be achieved with normal pump settings; the pump is waiting for the turbo to achieve high boost, but it will only get high boost if the revs raise. It was mainly in deep water that I floored it and nothing happened for this reason. The mod has therefore given me the result I want without affecting the lifetime of the engine. It is things like very high boost and amounts of fuel that will reduce the lifetime of your engine. To be fair, I got 160 km/hr with the standard setup on 3.54 diffs and 255/85/16 tyres. thats more power than I need.
Daan
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Nice, like your enthusiasm! daan
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This is what I run:
Works, I drove it at -10.
Daan
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Ok, chaps, first of all a merry Christmas and prosperous new year.
I will give my 2p worth: For a start, I think your gearing is a bit tall, I would suggest 4.1 ratios. The fuel pin knowledge/bs discussion I completely thrown out of the window by replacing the adjuster for a longer bolt (m8 fine thread) and wind it in completely to jam it closed. This has simplified the fuel injection strategy so to speak; it now only depends on throttle position and RPM. This has improved the pick up enormously. I have done a bit of bottleneck removal in the inter cooler and intake manifold (see my build thread).
The turbo pressure i kept standard, and is 15 psi (it is a 300 tdi). This makes it discovery automatic standard, but still within manufacturers spec. Max fuel is kept standard, so the top end power is standard. I hate black smoke, and it doesn't have any with normal use. You can get a hint of smoke if you drop to 1000 rpm in fifth, but that is just pushing it for the sake of it.
I cant blow you over with big figures, but it really goes well. I dont think more power is desirable basically. Also, running the viscous fan with the correct cowling is important. A vnt is meant to work well, but I would start with getting the ratios right. But anyway, what do I know about diesel engines?
You think you can post a piccy of your intercooler?
Daan
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This is what I do as well.
Daan
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To be honestIy don't think you need an IVA, expecially if all you do is cut off the dumb irons and move the cross member. IVA is doable but quite a bit of hassle. If the endresult is all defender though, I would stay clear.
yes with the cross member moved it looks like a standard length.
have a look at the link in my signature for more pics of the daan mobile.
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I have removed the dumb irons completely, that saved about 5 kg each. the main rails were cut short by about 40 mm and re tubed for the bumper bolts. the front crossmember was removed, and a new one, consisting of 2 u sections inside each other of which the legs go over part of the steering box was welded in place. they were tubed for the winch to bolt on to. it sits almost 100 mm backwards from original, so it lines up with the series 3 grille.
Biggest legality issue I can see is that the dumbirons have got the chassis number punched into them, so you would lose that. Than there is the rule which says cutting a chassis means an IVA. I dont think it would be enforced for shortening the front end, but the rule is quite clear. I had a new chassis without a chassis number to begin with, which later was SVAd.
My chassis:
Daan
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That courier forum is interesting reading; I am glad I am not a courier! they really get moaned at by everyone.
Daan
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What would he have done without Kannku?
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Yes, it is a Q plate. I always build it with the sva in mind, although I did run it on a series 3 registration for a while. You need to show manufacturer data of the engine emissions, which in my case meant a workshop manual for a discovery. I don't think that has changed.
No cats, no EGR, just a basic 300 tdi. the engine was a new, crated 300 repowering unit which has no EGR, which is not quite the same as a discovery. However, the engine number matched to what the disco workshop manual said.
As mentioned in my write up, the commercial sva/iva does not include external projections, and a whole host of other regulations. it takes the manual down from 250 pages to around 10 pages, and a doddle to pass.
This means that a series body can pass, with a winch, snorkel, and junglewires. Also, the 35" simex tyres are no problem, as long as they don't stick out of the bodywork. No changes were made to the car to pass the test, as opposed to what forum specialists, who believe all the kit needs removing. Complete b*****s, and mainly from people who never did the test.
The paperwork is a bit longwinded, but the test was really a glorified MOT. I know people shy away from this, but think about whether you would want to drive a car that does not pass the test. I just stopped reading all the forum chat and read the manual instead. This showed me that it really is a simple thing to do, and it was.
Road tax is £230 per year, insurance is £275 from memory with flux.
Daan
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Read this:
http://forums.lr4x4/index.php?showtopic=31872&hl=%2Banother+%2Bsuccesfull
It was a commercial SVA in 2008. Although SVA is now called IVA, I have not come across any major differences with regards to the commercial test. For the personal vehicle test however, a few things have changed I believe. The difference between the commercial and personal vehicle test is significant, as the story will show.
Receipts of parts does not mean they need to be new. Also, if you have a v5 from a donor car, that is acceptable. No pictures of a project is not a good idea full stop.
edit: I cant cut and paste a link at my work PC for some reason, can someone have a go? Or search for 'another successful SVA test'.
Daan
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I doubt it needs anything when you change bodies, however, if the amount of seats change, it gets more complicated I think. Maybe check with your insurance first.
Daan
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My reg just states land rover, 2500 diesel. There is no visible statement of what your car is, however, you have to supply the VOSA with supporting documents when you apply for the test. This includes receipts for most of the parts and pictures of the entire build. I dont know what they copy (they send the documents back and stamp the receipts with your reg number), but I imagine they keep at least a brief outline of what your car consists of.
Daan
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there is only one winch for a series, and that is a PTO!
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So you can find out from the logbook why its on a Q ? As ringing a Q onto a Hybrid seems the easy way to avoid an inspection
We're back to 'getting out of it'. Please tell me why you want to go to this hassle to turn an illegal car into, well an illegal car. Just man up and do the test, probably less hassle than what you are describing here.
Daan
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Its a smaller u/j than the mgb ones, and the application charts I found dont state a 3/4" x 2.5" u/j. I think with the flange hole locations one end and the 7/8" shaft the other, you should be able to get one made, albeit a bit pricey. is it just the u/js you want or also the slider bit?
Daan
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I reckon axles mean that; whether you should have disks or drums can always be argued, that wont loose points. Also, as mentioned, steering between disco or defender are one and the same thing. The vosa doesn't know or care one bit if the droparm is different. If they do, you can always argue that the drop arm was changed to make it an easier field fix. You guys really need to take these point rules with a pinch of salt.
Daan
won't bore with intricacies but it's taken it's toll enough to make such an enormous decision!
Consequences and legality?
in International Forum
Posted
One google search will tell you what the problems are with any sort of car/house/horse or computer.
I sold my 206 on ebay: it went unseen for £1650 to a bloke who lived 20 minutes up the road! I thought that was even more amazing.
Daan