Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I don't think the high ratio kit has the dog spline on the back of the gear to drive the pto, so check that as well. I run the pto of an lt77/230 transfer so no need for an overdrive.
Daan
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The one you can find...
This page shows you the options. If it is for occasional use, how much weight you're lugging around makes a real difference; the old fairey winches are ridiculously heavy, so keep that in mind.
Here is a page that shows you a few options:
http://www.pangolin4x4.com/reference/reference-library/winches/
Daan
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This thread is worthless without pics.
Daan
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Hi Braith, all approved now. Good to see a conversion in the flesh, and done to a very high standard.
Daan
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It depends if you are planning to do hardcore off road; -35 offset will really push your steering box, wheel bearings and balljoints a hard time off road. Also, the geometry (scrubradius) will get severely compromised. Plenty off people do it though. I run +8, which keeps them flush with the original eyebrows, but it is an 88", so turning circle is less of a problem.
Daan
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Diesel has been pushed for years to achieve targets on Co2 emisions. Now there is the realization that diesel smoke is not good for public health. I reckon the solution will be to use diesel in the country side and petrol in towns and busy areas.
Daan
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To me this only shows that going to high on turbo pressure means things get very inefficient very soon. It is potentially the result of intake temps going sky high due to the compression of gasses in the pump side, followed by the exhaust side. Interesting to see the VNT turbo not getting anywhere near these temps. Shows that the efficiency is much better of these.
Daan
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Inner tubes? From the picture, I presume this is the later type, with the captive nut plates inside the rim isn't it? I have no experience with these, but I have always wondered how you seal the bolts. Also, Normally, if you have a split rim, there is some sort of o-ring to seal it, but on mach 5s, there is no such thing. So another reason again, I cannot see how you can get a reliable seal without an inner tube.
Daan
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I used to have a modified standard intercooler with up rated core, I think it was Brunel, it would only just fit in the radiator frame and required the lips of the frame trimming down. Being a Tig welder myself I decided I would recore a few standard intercoolers myself but to get cores made up to size was very expensive for what was basically an experiment - I think I was quoted £150 per core.
I ended up with two full width allisports and a standard sized one although I did notice the Chinese have started to copy the allisport designs!
I think using the existing endtanks is not neccesarily ideal, because of the wall thickness of the inlet and outlet tubes. The internal area of these is less than the area going through the core, and therefore the entry and exit tubes are your main bottleneck. I did this on mine:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78688&page=1
The whole intercooler thing seems to get a lot of opinions, but few people are aware what the results are. this thread shows you that:
some people think deleting the intercooler is a good thing, others want the slab type in front of the radiator, but I have not seen anyone who actually did a comparison of backpressure, tempdrop and volume between the types. For what its worth, I doubt an alisport or similar standard size intercooler is giving you a great improvement, or at least noone has been able to actually measure what the difference is.
Daan
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I don't see any gain in not using the chassis as earth, maybe it works if you isolate everything, but that is almost impossible for things like an alternator or starter motor. If you look at a door, it doesn't carry any electric connection, but they corrode badly. The only thing that works is going back in time and have positive earth; cars that used to have positive earth did not suffer from galvanic corrosion. Have a think about that for a moment!
Daan
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I doubt that intercooler is much better than standard in terms of area. Also, you are going to need a lot more pipe to route it to the engine, increasing lag. Plus the fan cowling wasn't really designed for that, so you'd need a fair bit of engineering to gain an improvement.
If you are planning to convert to this or something different, measure intercooler temps before and after the intercooler, before and after the conversion. In my experience, the standard setup with the viscous fan is extremely effective.Daan
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If you run inner tubes, the tube around the valve is a complete PITA, because when you pump it up, you need to hold onto the valve with 2 fingers to stop the valve disappearing in the hole. Loops for me for this reason.
Daan
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Very tidy. Did you galvanize the axle casings?
I have one advice to you: get a higher garage door, If you want to keep hold of it!
Daan
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Nice project, keep the updates coming.
Daan
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To redlinemike: If you fit the tyres dry (without soap) and use tubeless wheels with inner tubes, I happily go down to 8 psi. Slightly narrow rims also helps. I also heard of people glueing the tyres to the rim with sikaflex, but no experience myself with this. I even heard stories of using fairy liquid and let them dry, which apparently makes the tyres get rock solid to the rims. In any case, tyres have a habit of sticking to rims over time and when this happens, they wont come off without a very strong bead breaker. So in most cases, I don't think a beadlock is actually required.
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No, I don't think so. But if you cut the lip from the rim, its no longer a beadlock, but a split rim, I reckon you could argue that that is legal. I personally would happily run the ones you have on the road, but not the flat plate ones. But that is just an opinion.
Daan
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Beadlocks are technically speaking not legal, due to their tendancy to get undone. This is mainly because of the flat plate version were the bolts don't bottom out. A split rim is indeed legal, and can be fitted with an insert to create a double beadlock. Its a bit of a strange regulation, because if you have a beadlock were the bolt bottoms out, it wont get undone either. Also, from the research I did on banded wheels, I think the illegal thing only starts to become a problem when the beadlock or wheel actually falls off.
Daan
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That chassis is shouting out for a connection between the roll bar and the windscreen. Otherwise, the workmanship on that car looks ok to me.
Daan
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Indeed.
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But you can still drive home can't you?
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So we dont seem to like blinged up defenders, but this is acceptable somehow:
Maybe I am missing something?
Daan
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I removed one from my freelander prop (for the winch); it just pulls of like an ordinary cv. its got 6 or 8 balls, but it all stays together if al is well.
Daan
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Is that a LHD steeringbox? Can you fit a RHD box instead? The angle looks pretty extreme to me. Also, Ideally both u/j should make the same angle to get a linear relation between steering input and steering angle of the box.
Daan
Parts for pto winch
in International Forum
Posted
I reckon a propshaft from an mgb is a good start; available new and you can shorten that. the uj size is the same as a freelander. I will have a measure of the u/j. the 22 mm shaft diameter is standard koenig, 7/8".
Daan