Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Check the roofline above the rear door, thats the only obvious place you will see it:
It started as a 90 flatroof, shortened at the front, so the slope is further forward, clearing your head. I removed the gutter, cut the roof at the bottom, folded a flange higher up and riveted the gutter back on. Remove all internal ribs and put strength back in using the rollcage.
I just folded complete new pedal boxes (the old ones were toast) with an extra horizontal flange at the back, 40 mm long, so the whole thing moved forward 40mm.
Daan
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You can work out the height of the COG using corner scales, by jacking the front or the back up, as high as you can and put the wheels on the scales in this elevated position. mathematically, from the difference of these valuse, you should be able to work out how high the COG is. To be accurate though, you need to lock the suspension.
Daan
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I moved the pedal box forward 40 mm for more legroom, and the rear bulkhead backwards for the same reason. I sit ok with the roof lowered 60 mm, so it fits in the garage. I measure 6ft 7 myself.
Daan
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My own supposition was that the D2's double radius arm set up brought better balance front and rear. Equally restrictive in other words.
Indeed. If you get the springrates right, you will have balanced suspension.
Daan
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Ok, Chaps, I have been watching this for a while, and I'd like to say that we should stick to technical stuff and not to personal grievances. There is a lot of knowledge here, from all sides of the globe, which is great. Some people have a mathematical approach, others like it more practical and tend to have gained lot of experience doing it that way. There is no right or wrong here, and they all bring something to the party.
I normally read this and pick the things i like or agree with, and leave the things that dont suit me or I dont agree with.
Also, suspension is very personal, people have their own ideas on setups, and seem to achieve results all the same.
So, stick to technical stuff, and if you have personal grievances please sort them out between yourselves. There is always the PM.
Keep the tech coming chaps, we want to hear it all. Daan
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Then why keep the LR gearbox? A 4.2 landcruiser engine can be fitted complete with gearbox and transferbox and all, gives you plenty grunt, strong engine and gearbox, permanent 4wd for those who want that and has an offset tcase as well. 1wire engine so nice and simple.
Because it is bit involved. Sure, you can swap a gearbox out as well, but then you have a major project on your hand. mounts, props hafts, exhaust, gearbox tunnel probably, speedo are just a few things I can think of. It is possible, but where do you stop?
Few people are keen on swapping a gearbox for a 'foreign' one.
Daan
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The one you already have: a the 2.8 tgv. Apart from being a bit heavy, that has everything one might need. It is already eating gearboxes, so bigger is all a bit waiting for terminal failure. As a cheap option there is always the Isuzu 2.8.
Daan
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Nige, first of all, thanks for posting this up and make the information available to the members of LR4x4. This is still the most informative forum I have come accross for landrover related tech.
One addition I can think of is the speedo correction; which gear do you need in the speedo drive to make your speedo read the right thing. I have been trawling the internet for this, and tried to order the 'correct' gear, but I do remember it being guesswork, and ultimately, they were on back order from the stealers, and I couldn't work out which car have which gear. I then went to the 'you know what' test, hoping that it wasn't testable. As my car was full time 4wd, it wasn't, but it still needs looking at.
Daan
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Should I pull/release the plunger frequently? Should I release it at the same time as pulling open the little valve thing? Let me know!!
Yes to the first question, not sure about the second, as my gun doesn't have one.
Daan
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Its pretty pointless to go to a 24 spline diff, then fit 10 spline outers. In your situation, I would get some cheap 110 salisbury shafts, shorthen them and press fit and weld them in a sleeve. Get britpart new shafts, surely they weld ok and you still have your weak spot
. It does mean you need to remove the stub axle to fit them, but I think it will be much stronger than any 10 spline matchstick.Daan
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I have read a story in one of the mags were someone turned a p38 into a arc trailer, big advantage it does have is the cranked radius arms, giving better steering lock.
Daan
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Bill, can we get a copy of these mags, when they come out?I had a visit this morning from a journalist/photographer and long time offroad vehicle builder, who want to do a series of stories on Old School 4x4 enthusiasts who build their own stuff, as opposed to handing over a blank cheque to the ARB Corp for lots of shiney bells and whistles.Anyway, they asked to see Wildfing up on the articulation ramp to get a clearer view of the suspension ,transmission and portal axles. we got around to discussing Antisquat and why WildFing doesn't play by the rules. Now these guys are no dills, one in particular is at least my equal regards technical experience,It was surreal that the answer came to the three of us simultaneously. Looking at the chassis attachment point of the rear One Link showed that it was close to mid wheel base and as near as dammit to the for/aft location of the Centre of gravity. What that means is that the upward push from the end of the OneLink is fighting close to the whole of the trucks unsprung mass. Now WildFing is no lightweight at 2200KG's.Subtract say 750kg for axle assemblies, wheels /tyres and that leaves around 1450 kg or 3190 lbs of unsprung mass that the One link is trying to push upwards against. The effective length of my One Link is 4ft. If I was dragging an extremely load or climbing a very steep gradient in just rear wheel drive and was able to generate 8000 lb ft of torque at the rear axles, the lifting force at the end of the One Link would be 2000lbs. I don't think that 2000 lbs of upforce is going to make much impression on 3190 lbs of downforce, and that is why Wildfing doesn't jack its bum up when climbing.BTW, 8000lb ft of torque at the axles is well in excess of what Rover type diff/axles could cope with. Even a standard 30 spline Dana 60 is rated at only 6000lb ft.Also, very little serious 4wding is done in just rear wheel drive, and the 'squatting' effect of radius arm. OneLink or 3 link front end would also apply a downforce close to the for/aft centre of gravity position as well, which should probably further oppose that 2000lbs of upforce from the rear One Link.
Daan
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Im glad this topic came up
This is a quote from a bloke on the v8 forum
Any comments
I am afraid he is right; big tyres work, but if you can't make the car reliable, or get the correct ratio, they are liability.
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The biggest problem is that the transfer box has a left hand drop, which means you are stuck with the viscous transfer box, and very little options on ratios etcetera.
It also means the diffs are on the other side compared to most land rivers, which means you get stuck more often, because the ruts are made for th side diffs
Daan
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Bowler defender challenge:
http://www.bowlermotorsport.com/motorsport/defender-challenge/
It appears landrover is interested in off road competition after all!
Daan
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Do you have a breather pipe fitted? I had half a liter oil in the timing belt cover once; this was the result of a blocked breather pipe.
Daan
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I have taken all afternoon to reflect on this post and given it a lot of thought.
I suppose with this one drawing towards a road worthy completion in the next few weeks I kind of wanted something on the back burner to keep me thinking and tinkering, but I got a bit project happy in my head and I suppose the fact that I probably won't get to do another full on project after this I was looking for something to give it my all and be a real spot on job where it does not matter whether it stands idle in the corner of the yard in the summer under a tarp only to be dragged in for build up when I have time and parts.
In truth I think feel a little silly as I got carried away with my dreams of building a one off 90 as some sort of asset and when the Came Trophy Disco came up within days I then had a cow and the "I want" tantrum of a spoilt child told me I "had" to have one or the other.
I don't have to have either, kind of dawned on me thinking about your post Daan, having Rusty has been a year of trials and tribulations and a steep learning curve/reminder of how much energy it takes to keep momentum up in a project, especially when you get bogged down in it and see little progress after hours/days of hard work.
Certainly not a hasty decision but I have decided not to take on either project at the moment and to actually carry forth with Rusty, there are a lot of things I always wanted to put on my trucks and Daan is right, why try and spread it between two trucks? I have this one and can actually give it all of my attention and all of my GFs money so why not make a better job of this and see what happens in a few years time?
With prices falling faster than Jordans panties I could pull a D3 by then
Hang on, someone listening to my advice? That is a rarity these days. I cannot tell you what it is like to have 2(or more) land rovers at the same time, I just know that the one I have always need more work than I have time for. I also met several people who had more than one land rover but for some reason, none of them running; the logic here is that th previous Landy had too much work to do, so they bought a second one. This then broke down in big way, too much work too fix, so they bought a third one. And so on and so on.
Hel, even maverik agrees and according to his signature, he has six!
Daan
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my advice is to stick with one car, that works for me. judging from your disco buildthread, the one you have gives you enough trouble as it stands. By all means swap it for a defender or a CT disco, but 2 landrovers = twice the trouble and expense. Even so, the time you have spend on your current disco would be wasted and hardly recouped by selling it. This is why I still have my old series 3, as I cannot face loosing the lightyears of time I spend on it over the last 23 years.
Daan
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Topic moved from series, because it is no longer series specific.
Daan
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235/85/16
Slightly of topic: what brand is that fairlead and do you get on with it? I did think of making it like that, but worried the plasma would get jammed when pulling on an angle.
Nice disco by the way.
Daan
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So you've upgraded from shoelaces eh?
learnt and upgraded. I just bought a spare alternator to replace the Britpart one I bought in holland (at great expense, do they rip you off on the mainland for britpart garbage, I must add), the replacement alternator has a pulley too!
But if all else failed, the shoelace still works!
Daan
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Yes mine did that on the driveway, that was lucky. I have replaced the bearing and carry a spare. when it failed on a saturday night, I wanted to use the machine the next day, I immobilised my 406 hdi, that one fitted as well. Maybe we can find some unbreakable tensioner from a major manufacturer, like mercedes or something.
My get out of jail card for this kind of thing (or any accesory train failure) is a shorter belt: if it something fails, you can have a go at disabling one function and try to tension the alternator or tensioner with a strap or something.
Daan
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What advanteges do the 1 link actually give you if I may ask? If you look at the mainstream off road scene, about 99% is going for a 3 or 4-link. Is this a case of people just going with the herd or are there more advantages to a 4 link?
You can modify a 3 link to cancel out roll torque as well: if the toplink sits on an angle pointing to right (seen from behind of the rr axle) it will cancel out torque roll, depending on rotation direction obviously.
I did this on an oval racer with a live rr axle once were the torque roll would unload the rh front wheel, causing understeer. angling the rr toplink as much as I could did make matters much better.
Daan
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Series 3, on 255/85/16 muds:
Coilsprung hybrid, on 35 simex tyres:
Both pictures show banded landrover wheels, 1" widened on the series, 2" widened on the hybrid.
Daan
. It does mean you need to remove the stub axle to fit them, but I think it will be much stronger than any 10 spline matchstick.
Series 3 Problems
in Series Forum
Posted
Hi, welcome to the forum.
Biggest problem is getting the old one out; I never managed it myself, they tend to be rusted stuck, fused together with the front crossmember. You can rebuild them in situ though.
daan