Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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In case you have not noticed: here
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I don't know of any motor vehicle diff, locking or otherwise, that operates that way. The only ones I have seen are on pedal tricycles and quadracycles.
If the diff operated as you describe then the vehicle would not be able to go in reverse.
Where did you get this idea from that the diff would only drive the inner wheel while the outer freewheels?
From the website? Thats exactly how a detroit or kaiser works. The freewheel works in both directions and allows 1 wheel to overrun the diff at any time.
Daan
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Armchair fabrication at its finest
Admittedly, there is a lot of that at the moment....
Daan
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Proper engineering as usual. With regards to taking the tank out, I suppose you are landing the stays on the chassisrails? In this case, the back becomes very cluttered with tubes. For this reason, I kept them wide and landed straight on the (boxed in) rear crossmember. This opened up loads of space in the back. Not MSA approved, but strength wise very little in it and a lot more usefull.
Just my 2p...
Daan
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Does the one with more teeth line up with the one with less teeth? I think they are the same spline, but the one with fewer teeth just has every other tooth left out. I have the one on the right with fewer teeth to drive my PTO.
daan
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Sounds incredibly complicated and leaky to me; I would swap the roof for a plain one and do the usual spreaderplate bolt through thing. Hell, you could even loose 65 mm in height if you fancy it...
Daan
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Daan,
I would like to think that but I'm having rubbing issues with the 265's on RR 3 spoke rims now. You can clearly see in the below image where the tire is coming in contact on the frame.
My new 255/85's are approx the same width as the 265's so I'm of the mind that they will to rub in the same location therefore the idea of wheel spacers. I could be wrong though.
Todd.
I would change the wheels for ones with more offset if that were the case. there is no weight saving with the landrover alloys, and the spacers add ridiculous weight and reduce reliability. I severely hate spacers for many reasons, but mainly the ones mentioned.
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You need 0.
Daan
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I wouldnt fancy getting shot at in one of those.
Daan
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My mudzillas ballooned quite a bit, so get one fitted and see where you are. Having said that, I read a 35" silverstone measures about 33.5", so they are undersize.
Daan
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What I proposed for a clamp on cage mount is this:
The closest to it in the MSA Blue Book is Drawing No 33 / 59 - but both appear to need to be welded to the chassis.
It states that each foot must be attached by at least three 8.8 Grade M8 bolts - which should require about 88kN (8.8 Ton) tensile force to break them (and about 50kN to shear). The requirement for strength given by the blue book id 7.5 vehicle masses longitudinally (pushing the cage backwards against the rear stays). Assuming the rear stays act as a fulcrum and the load is split equally between the main hoop feet - that gives an approx tensile force on the bolts of 94kn (for a 2.5 Ton vehicle). Therefore (This is a back of envelope calculation and the force distribution in practice will be different - but I think it's likely to be greater rather than less, particularly for a corner impact) the minimum of 3 x M8 bolts at best is only just strong enough.
A clamp-on, tightly fitting mounting, with 6 or 8 M8 x 8.8 bolts, even made out of 3mm plate should be stronger.
Si
3 M8 bolts works out at 63kn in my view, and lateraly you only need 2.5 x vehicle mass in that direction. 7.5 times from the top coming down and 5.5 times fore and aft. Anyway, these requirements only come into play if you homologate a cage, so do not apply to you I dont think. I wouldnt use a clamp on bracket like that on my cage fittings, as it would pointload the chassis badly and trys to compress the box section. The welded versions allow you to spread the load more evenly and actually reinforce the chassis. What I can say though is that the issue with the MSA rules is that they require you to weld 6mm plate to a 2mm chassis. That is proper dog poo engineering! Daan
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I know this has been done to death - but having read the blue book section K and the AWDC accompanying notes http://awdc.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=154:challenge-rollover-protection-from-2011&catid=47:technical-updates&Itemid=72 I have a few questions!
I have spoken to VOSA who say that if I weld roll cage mounts to the chassis anywhere between the front and rear spring hangers, the vehicle must be submitted for inspection / IVA.
Do you have that rule black on white?
Because if that was true, virtually every alteration you do to a landrover chassis would be illegal. You can fit defender outriggers to a disco chassis and fit a complete defender body without going for the IVA. Whether it saves you going to an inspection, not sure, but so long as you dont cut the chassis that should all be perfectly legal.
Daan
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statements like "All the successful teams swear by Plasma" means nothing as most of the "successful" Teams are in the trade any way so get it at a trade price...
True, but they would get an even better deal from bowrope I imagine. I am the first one to ignore the rest and do my own thing, but have seen too many people breaking perfectly good winchropes, and they were never plasma.
Bearing in mind I use a PTO winch which never stops and I have done some incredibly hard winching with it, without failing the rope, I cant think of anything matching it to be honest.
this is what i do
Wash it after most outings and after every challenge.
Have co-driver that understands when he is abusing it
I also swap the ends as re-splice the hook so that the drum end get some use.
And i have the same length and diameter rope on the front and the back so i can swap then round.
This also means that i can keep one spare that can go on either the end of the truck.
I do all of the above
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I only use Plasma, did RFC on 1 9mm rope without snapping. This involved cleaning the rope every day and re-spool. Later I changed to 11mm for more durability, but I only snapped it once when it had worn down to halfway.
All the succesfull teams swear by Plasma, so that should tell you something.
Daan
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the box has an oil pump already, so I dont think you need an additional pump for this. Further to fridges comment, I haven't found a need for a cooler on a manual box, when used in conjuntion with modest engine power.
Daan
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Hmm, that looks surprisingly like.....my bumper?
Good work,
Daan
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Dont think you need, look at the barriers down the motorway, they never rust. If the stealing thing bothers you, then maybe. However, it makes the car more specific, so in a way less attractive to thieves.
Daan
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Question is why? maybe changing brands is more effective. You severely reduce rope capacity on your drum.
Daan
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Nice, Are you fitting the winch as well?
And how will it be powered?
Daan
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You can have 1mm of tread not 1.6mm as the pass figure
Awesome!
Daan
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1"
daan
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This is done in america quite a bit, but I have not seen it in steering. I suppose the pull out force of a balljoint in aluminium threads will be the decider. Another question is, how much weight is saved with solid aluminium vs. steel tube with a given wall thickness.
Daan
Fleebay add... Very peculiar..
in International Forum
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"the millage is correct also as it was used on a army airfield. the engine is great and fully serviced and the tranny doesnt sing to you. thanks. ps the price includes shipping to the east coast. but west coast isnt a problem either"
A camel trophy landy used on an airfield, whose tranny doesn't sing to you. then his delivery seems pretty flaky too. Great fun reading this one, would be good to go and see this bloke for a giggle.
daan