[Quick MIG Question]

My crossmember is 2mm box section folded up from sheet, reinforced where it matters ( a v from the towhitch point back to the chassis). It is a bit pointless to weld 6mm box onto a 2mm chassis in my humble opinion. I have done ridiculous offroading, kerr snatch recoverys you name it.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

1.2 will be perfect for your requirements.

Daan

[Frank Pickles Insurance - Dump me in a Pickle ....Thank you so much]

anyone tried Academy with a Q-plate?

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

Weight matters on acceleration, but once you are going it doesn't matter much. So the more stop start you do, the more it matters. The comment on lost energy in all the gearboxs is also important. Hence my suggestion of freewheel hubs and a 2wd conversion. Also, adding an overdrive is effectifely adding another gearbox, which isn't great from the drag point of view. Also, it is a shame that an LT77 has direct drive in fourth, it would be preferable to have direct drive in fifth from a consumption point of view.

Daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

Quick update: I got to the bottom of the seal problem, eventually. Basically there are 2 partnumbers for this seal. There is ERR2532 and there is ERR2532G. The G one is the OE one which has given me trouble, the one without a G is the all rubber seal.

ERR2532G on the left, ERR2532 on the right.

The rubber seal is a tight fit in the housing, I also applied a bit of RTV to make me feel better, but I don’t think it is strictly needed.

Both are allmakes partnumbers, Bearmach didn’t seem to understand what I was talking about, and have no recollection what the seal looks like, so they weren’t getting me anywhere.

I also had a slight weep from the mounting face between the block and the flywheel house. I got a gasket for a 200TDI, part ERR1440, and modified it to fit a 300 TDI by enlarging 2 holes with a 16 mm hollow pipe and cut it shorter.

The left bottom and right top holes need enlarging

Thanks to MID services for making me aware of these numbers, they also supplied the seal.

I also replaced the clutch plate and replaced the manifold gasket at the same time, then dropped the engine back in. Fingers crossed all is well.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

its all just a bit of fun really, Ok, its a landrover, but if you CAN get 30mpg running about instead of 25mpg, then why not. Its still a landy, still goes off road, and still makes me smile!

2000rpm@70! Imagine the tonnage of air pressure on a landy at 70 as opposed to 55mph!, that would mean about 1200 rpm at 55mph, well too slow.

I mean you should aim for roughly 2000 rpm at your cruising speed, for best economy.

Daan

[LED Headlights]

Thats good to know. Are they plastic or glass? I bashed a few glass ones in the past, but with plastic ones that wouldnt be such a problem.

Daan

[LED Headlights]

Thinking practically, any of the mentioned headlight upgrades, what happens if you dunk them into bonnet deep water, especially at night, when you need them? I personally like the normal Wipac sealed beam units, for this reason. Disadvantage is you need to cary a spare headlight instead of a spare bulb. But I suppose the LED headlights will have this problem as well.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

I dont know what revs you are seeing at these speeds, but most super efficient cars (like vw bluemotion etc) are seeing about 2000 rpm at 70 mph. So I think that is what you should look at aiming for. Also, with regards to aerodynamics: Most mods tend to be done at the front, but from what I learned, the most drag is created at the rear, pulling the back out of a vacuum. So it might be worth thinking about that end as well.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

Do you really think it's viable to have a 1.0 box with a TDi? It already feels fairly sluggish with a 1.2, so I can't imagine having to push the engine harder on acceleration will save fuel.

Really what you want is an overdrive, so acceleration is unaffected, but you have an extra gear on the motorway. Too bad they're all so damn expensive.

If the objective is to save fuel, absolutely. The fact that it will be slow on acceleration shouldn't matter, because that is the way you should be driving anyway. To be fair though, it will only matter in 1st gear, from then on, your shiftpoints can stay at the same RPM, it just happens at a higher speed. And probably use 5th as an overdrive. If it proves too tall, you can fit 205 tyres, narrower and lower, and will save even more.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

Yes I could fit an overdrive @ £1200, or change the t/box for 1.22 or even the v8 one, but I'm trying all I can without spending much, as yes it would be loverly to have a rocky mountain overdrive, but I couldn't justify the expense for, say 6-8mpg gain.

.

Has yours got the 1.6 box?

I reckon the change to a 1.0 box, which you probably can do for les than £100 pounds, that is the biggest hit you will ever give to your consumption. If I needed my landrover for daily driving, that would be my number 1 mod. In fact, I am considering it at the moment for mine, but it probably is not worth it for my mileage.

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

Its swings and roundabouts with the weather.

If only it was:

http://www.metrompg.com/posts/winter-mpg.htm

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

Would weather/temperature conditions have an overall effect on the calculations as well - do we get slightly better mpg on very cold days due to the denser air??

Yes, it does have an effect, but not in the direction you think: you will use more fuel because the aerodynamics are less favourable because the air is denser. Thats why you use more fuel during the winter.

daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

Daan, have you Tried MID Engineering nr Wantage? They are great for parts 01235 771114

Ok, I give them a hit.

Daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

I'd go for the Corteco seal never had any bother with them you could add a small smear of RTV round it to be safe.

Do you know a supplier? All the regular Landrover places only offer the OE dowty one.

Thanks for all the replys so far, there always seems to be an endless depth of knowledge on this forum!

Daan

[Cylinder de-activation. will it work?]

I would start by fitting the tallest transfer box ratio your engine can pull - probably 1.0 - and fit a 2wd conversion with freewheeling hubs at the same time. and ditch every kilo you can.

The switching off a cylinder thing is a non starter with a mechanical injection pump I reckon.

Daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

The cam cover breather was blocked, but that shouldn't have caused this problem, and the crankcase has a 1" thick pipe going into the intake (as per standard TDI), so I cant see this being a problem.

Daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

Been there before you, my 14J had the 1st seal leak after about 1000 miles with no obvious defect to account for it and its replacement a month later and about 250 miles fell out like yours, even though it was a tight fit going in. I thought **** this for a hobby as i never liked the look of the Dowty seals, so the next seal fitted was a pattern one that was orange and squishy, that has been fine ever since.

Hmm, Do you know the supplier? The setup as far as can see works ok, I have run it since 2002. I only swapped the seal out in 2010, when I had to swap the crank. Thats the one that is now giving the problem. Actually, the seal fitted was from bearmach, the replacement I was planning to put in is Allmakes. They look exactly the same though.

Daan

[Odd crankseal problem]

Ok, todays scene:

I recently had a crankshaft seal problem that went from a slight drip to completely ridiculous in a very short time. It looked as if there was no seal there, that much oil dripped out of it.

So today I thought just pull out the engine, swap the seal and drop it back in. Predictably, it wasn’t so easy…. First of all, there was so much oil that the clutch plate has become contaminated. I think that means a new clutch plate (about 2000 miles on it ).

When I took the flywheel off, the problem showed. The seal has slipped out of the flywheel housing and rubbing against the flywheel. It appears to have moved.

Marks on flywheel

Seal, grean paint gone.

The seal, which is normally painted green, had the paint stripped of, presumably while pressing it in, and now turns freely in the bellhouse. The lip looked ok, but the oil clearly found another way past the seal Not sure what to do here, engine is a 300 tdi, with a TD housing and seal (sealno err2532G, from allmakes in a white box).

I haven’t tried the new seal in the bellhousing yet, but I still think it will be tight fit.

Anyone seen this before? Any bright ideas what to do, as this is not a job I fancy doing again. Would excessive oil pressure cause it? I also had an incident recently were it showed about half a litre of oil coming out of the cambelt cover when I removed the plug, but I put that down to a blocked breather. But I kind of wonder if I have stuck pressure regulator in my oil pump.

I suppose the clutch plate is junk, or does anyone know a way of cleaning it?

Any input welcome.

daan

[Shorter serp belt on 300tdi]

Thats a pretty crude way of doing things, especially as you now no longer have adjustment for the belt stretch over time. Also, if you use the car for offroad, the electric fan will render your intercooler to being pointless, unless the fan actually runs (depending on how you fit it, it may not provide any cooling for the intercooler at all).

I would just solve the problem myself, rather than reinvent your engine accesory drive.

I will take the belt no into account, because you may be able to run it as a back up if your alternator seizes up.

Daan

[Cost of getting SWB chassis dipped.]

Thats were I had my chassis galvanized. They did a very good job on the galvanizing, but then the forklift driver made mess of it by dumping it in a corner with a load of scrap and bending one of the rear body brackets. I hope he is sacked, but the galvanizing at east anglia is top notch.

Daan

[Raised Air Intake Effect on Performance]

I dont think the top makes a big difference, but the pipe diameter does. From memory, the standard Mantec snorkels are 2.5", where your intake pipe from the aircleaner is 3". So anything smaller than 3" upstream from the aircleaner looks like choking the system to me. I always ran a 3" snorkel so cant comment on what the difference would be for 2.5" vs 3", but it just doesn't look right to me.

Daan

[A question for the TD5 Techies]

I am not an expert in this field, but any ecu driven diesels I have driven are like this. the pug XUD was perfect for low down torque, the later version, the HDI version is garbage compared, and every modern diesel seems to have lost the advantage of torque at low RPM. I dont know if emissions are the cause of this.

What would be a good idea is to megasquirt a diesel. If you can make it work, you have freedom of mapping, so you wont have to rely on what a tuner is telling you. That might give you the tools to solve the problem.

Daan

[The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread]

All this makes me feel better about my own truck...

Daan

[To Tube Or Not To Tube]

I used tubes all my life, I HATE tubeless wheels for offroading. They pop off and are a hassle. Use proper Michelin inner tubes and you wont have problems.

daan