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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

  1. Thanks Daan,

    Thats very tight if I use ½ inside diameter tubing. Even if I used the 16 mm inner diameter tube that I have now, the outside diameter is only 20 mm. All Designa Chassis chassis's are made with 3 mm plate vers Land Rover's 2 mm frames. Therefore I think that there will be plenty of meat left to weld. ;)

    Todd.

    I wouldn't fance drilling 4 20mm holes in my chassis, if you find 1/2" tube with a wall of 2mm, it is only 14.7 dia. 1/2" is 12.7, so if you think that this is tight for an m12, what kind of tolerances are you thinking of achieving, it is a steering system after all.

    Daan

  2. I would use hydraulic tube, 1/2" inside if you can find it. the problem with an oversize tube is that the holes you will drill in the chassis will be massive, so there wont be much left of it.

    daan

  3. I think that counts for everything not just older cars, I'd wager that above 50% of testers are appling rfrs incorrectly to everything they test.

    Indeed, having my landy tested for 10 years in the UK, I got 10 different stories from different testers at several stations.

    Daan

  4. Daan. Can i ask how you've tested this ? We used to have a limit of 2,000rpm and we had our alternators producing as much as possible at this point. I'd put it more down to different makes / models / types of alternators and the amount that they put out at idle.

    G

    I did not physically test this, but I was involved with a sandwhich van at some stage in my career, which stood stationary for hours on time with the engine running at 1000 rpm. This did suffer from flattened batterys, and one of the solutions to try and combat this problem was to fit a larger alternator (24 V iskra from memory). This made things worse. We then got the charging curves of both the alternators and the result was that at 1000 rpm (about 1500 rpm on the alternator), the larger alternator was worse.

    Daan

  5. I put the best part of 4k into my old 300tdi, pump, injectors, ported and polished head, turbo. And the best it made on a dyno was 182hp.

    It eventually threw a rod after about 7 years of abuse.

    What did you do for a intercooler to achieve this power?

    Daan

  6. how much extra do you really need at the front end? i had an idea while i was fitting my tdi that if i need extra space at the front then i could move the series front end forward a small amount, about an inch or two, and extend the rear end of the bonnet to fill in the gap.

    i didnt need to do it in the end, but i think if it was done well enough it would be hardly noticeable except to the rivet counters

    This is exactly what I did to fit my intercooler between the steeringbox an the grillepanel, I moved the panel forward 20mm, and extended the bonnet at the back. Noone has noticed, unless I pointed it out. This is on a LHD vehicle with defender type pas box, on a RHD this would not have been neccesarry.

    Daan

  7. I think there is a difference, due to the 300 having EGR and a cat, which dont help consumption. They are largely the same on paper, but details differ, I believe the 300 has higher boost pressure.

    Daan

  8. Apart from the bumpsteer issue, I dont even think that the panhard going the other way actually fits; They would need to cross each other around the middle of the car. Is your RHD? In that case, a LHD 4 bolt box is probably your best bet, fitting it outside the chassisrail.

    Daan

  9. I used the mudzilla in the past (a cheaper clone of the mickey thompson), bought to compete in Ladoga trophy. They were brilliant. They had half the noise of a simex, and were unbeatable in the swamps. On the forest tracks they were not as good as a simex or a bogger, but I would say 80-90% as good. They are only half as course as a bogger or a simex, but the V-shape makes them selfclean better than any tyre I have ever seen. Only problem with this is they dont selfclean in reverse. But overall, a very good tyre.

    Daan

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