ThreeSheds
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Everything posted by ThreeSheds
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Fitted cruise control to the TD5 tonight. Took about 40 minutes. Works fantastic. If you are thinking about doing it - go on!
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Below are a couple of photos of my Disco 2 gearbox crossmember. As you can see the mounting brackets are handed (they are set at an angle) I know which way round it was fitted when I took it off, but I am not sue if that was correct... You see I THINK that the front in the photo below should be the left hand end, but that is not how it was on the car...
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Thanks for that info. WRT the spare wheel carrier, you can (with a little work) invert them which gets another couple of inches I believe...
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Any problems resulting from blanking EGR on a TD5
ThreeSheds replied to AgedMechanic's topic in Discovery Forum
Good job I kept the valve then! -
Any problems resulting from blanking EGR on a TD5
ThreeSheds replied to AgedMechanic's topic in Discovery Forum
I did some looking into this recently and I am afraid that I couldn't find a definitive answer, so I thought I would remove the valve but leave the rest of the gubbins there but blanked off, so since the actual valve is under the sound deadening on a Disco TD5, everything looks normal. But - I have kept the valve in case I need to put it back... Sorry I couldn't give a straight yes or no - hopefully somebody else will and then we will both know. Roger -
Hi, Firstly let me apologise for this post if the topic has already been covered... I really thought that it would have been but I can't find it... What I am after is advice WRT the biggest AT tyres for my Disco 2 with 18" alloys and standard suspension. I am thinking BF GOODRICH ATKO2 at the moment and think that I may be able to go to 265/60R18 (standard are 255/55) Does anyone have any experience of what does and doesn't fit? Cheers, Roger
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Wow! Thanks everybody for the advice. I need to revisit my prep I think!
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Thanks for the comments gentlemen - I'll have another go tomorrow night
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Yes, vertical down... should I be going up? This is what the other side looks like: is that 'penetration'?
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Only the vertical one please - the rest are me learning and I know they are sheyte
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Been practicing welding vertical lap joint, 3mm new stuff to ?mm chassis. After a few pigeon poo runs i managed this. I think it's ok but please, advice and guidance is welcomed. The image is correctly orientated ie the chassis section was stood on end. Upside-down next... <shudder>
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Haha - are you sure - it is Waxoyl after all! Similar to FF, in my old RRC I had a rusty windscreen from grinding inside the cab .
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So sorry to have disappointed everybody... i'll try harder next time ;)
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It's a Disco 2 rear section (the longer of the two options sold by insideout4x4) and I can say that both the fit and the finish is exceptional. The last time I bought stuff like that for a car it was common to find that they didn't fit, and that the paint was thin and weak, whereas this seems to be very good in it's dimensions, very well put together and have good thick paint. By the way - if you are thinking of doing the rear chassis of a disco 2, there are a couple of helpful ideas visible in the photo below - the pillow saves concussion and the rope saves 90% of the effort of the (inevitably multiple) offering it up...
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I think something is missing... after nearly knocking myself senseless four or five times I padded the spare wheel holder... and never made contact again. Sods law?
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Expansion Slots Even with a properly selected material, heat expansion can still cause flanges to warp and/or destroy the fasteners holding them on. Cutting simple slots along the flanges can do much to provide them with sufficient room to safely expand without doing any damage. Excellent! It all makes sense now
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But they will also let salty water into the thread...
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Never been too fond of brass nuts just on the basis of strength - I normally use stainless in an attempt to beat the corrosion. Never had one come loose yet and also never had one I couldn't undo later. I did wonder about those 'flashed with copper' ones but in the end I decided to stick with stainless. So... If a plasma cutter can easily plunge through etc, do we still have no consensus as to why the slots are there?...
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I have never seen this before - I presume that there is a good reason, perhaps so that when it's corroded to fcuk (like the other one in the photo) you can put a cold chisel in there and give it a tap? Also - do I now need to use a washer as opposed to the flanged nut and bolt that I would normally use (without washers) in this situation... I have been mucking around with cars for 56 years so I am quite embarrassed to have to ask this!
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All this was ordered on Monday morning... The chassis part arrived on Tuesday - everything else today (Wednesday) I live near to Aberdeen. The quality of the parts is superb, as was the packing. Brilliant service from: insideout4x4, superpaintexpress, transglobal-trading, and rdg355. Thanks guys! Other than as a customer, I have no links to any of them.
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I will soon be replacing the back section of the Disco 2 chassis and am thinking that the following rust prevention process would be ok after it's welded in place: Roughen everything with red Scotchbright Spray over any bare metal with Pro Cote Cold Galv spray Spray over everything with Hammerite Stone Chip Shield (spray can, smooth and over-paintable) Shutz the lot Any hands thrown up in horror yet? From my limited experience of preventing rust, I think that the above system should see the new metal (which is also 3mm thick) easily outlast the rest of the car...
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Thats great thanks - I tried that but obviously not hard enough
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This coupling at the rear near side of the car, behind the bumper is (I think) something to do with the fuel breather - but I cant work out how to open it... any suggestions please?
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Car restoration. Where do you draw the line?
ThreeSheds replied to KrisDR's topic in International Forum
Ten hours? Why the rush? I did a Merlin for a 1/24 Spitfire and took most of the winter! Nobody will ever see it (likewise the wires behind the instruments in the cockpit) but I really enjoy the process as much as the end result. I assume this is the same for the OP - so go for it! But try not to cry when you see rust on it after the first winter Lovely job on the pulley by the way - photos of other restoration porn would be appreciated here
