ThreeSheds

To be honest I don't think there is a problem at all - teething or otherwise... The thing displaces upwards of 70,000 tonnes and leaks 200 litres per hour? I can pee faster than that! In fact its the ridiculousness of the story that first attracted my attention - that and the chance of some cheap toilet humour

That's a good price. But again, not actual MAPP gas according to the breakdown listed in the COSH link...

Thanks for the help everyone. I am going to get a Rothenberger with a MAPP cylinder... I hope! It seems that a lot of people on Ebay describe their product as MAPP gas but show a photo of the Map/Pro gas.

Apparently the Queen Elizabeth is leaking up to 200 litres per hour through a propeller shaft seal... There is a rumour that the seal's designer used to work on Land Rover sunroofs... any other thoughts?

Oh yes! that helps a lot thanks! Obviously I was looking at USA based information - easily done on the web...

I need to be able to heat my rusty nuts to glowing, and my current blowtorch doth butter no parsnips... Could anyone recommend a cheap blowtorch which has a reasonable amount of power please? Also, a nice to have (but not essential) would be piezo ignition. I am currently looking at some 'map gas' ones for £30+ but would prefer an actual recommendation. (p.s. I understand that modern 'map' gas is not 'MAPP' gas so would also appreciate opinions on whether it's worth getting map over propane since it's more expensive) Cheers, Roger

I would love to see this (or any other D2 body lift) with photos...

That's brilliant! And for £20 I can afford to scrap one finding out if it will fit... Thanks! p.s. - the off-side-head light part of the switch will be covered by another change I am thinking of - using a rotary switch from VW (et al) which does off--side--dip--front fog--rear fog all in one easy to feel ergonomic switch

Sitting looking at it through the office window Wondering if HDC works when sliding backwards down the icy access road to my house...

I hate poor ergonomics. I could give numerous examples, but my most current annoyance is the Disco 2 dipswitch (and I will mention the horn here too). At this time of year, I do significant amounts of driving on full beam and the ability to quickly dip the lights is very important... The Disco2 dipswitch (for those not familiar with the Disco2) is a pull for full beam, pull for dip beam (latching) and pull for flash type. I think that the designer was fixated on pulling something... Anyway - it has the following problems: If you pull to flash and pull too far the lights stay on full. If you need to dip in a hurry you have to: Remember if you are on full beam (otherwise attempting to dip will in fact switch to full). This is not always as easy as it sounds on relatively quiet roads with the odd clusters of vehicles coming the other way. Pull the lever all the way up and then release... Only on the way back do the lights dip. This action takes significantly longer than a push for full and pull for dip variety of switch. My other car (an ageing Skoda) has a far more effective dipswitch with a pull for flash, push for full. This is definitely much safer. So the upshot of the above is that I am looking to change the switch to a pull for flash, push for full type, and I was wondering if anyone has already done it, and if so what you used and what sort of self-cancelling arrangement you ended up with? Oh - and I said I would mention the horn too? Well if the replacement switch had a horn button too that would be nice. Cheers, Roger

Yes - the standard locking wheel nuts that make up the fifth nut on each wheel are pretty abysmal and so I would need to buy a full five sets so that I can replace them too...However, that would cost £100 and I'm not sure I want matching wheelnuts that much... At the moment I am thinking of ripping the caps off my normal ones, buying five new ones to replace the locking ones, and buying a 1" impact socket...

Several wires and several terminations in my toolkit! Plus my current LR product has a wire permanently connected to the starter solenoid which is taped up within easy reach of the battery... (but that was the work of a previous owner..)

Found some! here and here Oh, and I also found another potential solution - rip off the tin covers and use a 1" socket. Sorry - I can't remember where I read this, but I tried it and it's a good fit, but the nut looks a bit manky...

Hopefully this is not a stupid question, but I would like to replace my current 'capped' wheelnuts with plain steel ones, but can't find any - can anybody help?. I have standard alloy wheels. I just don't like those capped wheelnuts (especially since most of mine are to a greater or lesser degree 'blown' with corrosion under the cap) Cheers...

Well, thanks for your thoughts everybody... When so many people I have so much respect for say keep it - I'll be keeping it.

Hi, I am currently planning some light mods to my Disco 2, which will be used for road trips in the UK and Europe (I'll be writing about it's conversion to a 'stealth camper' later), and occasional RTV events, and I am wondering whether to permanently remove the spare wheel and it's bracket from the back door. Considerations are: When I am trialing I remove the spare wheel anyway The last time I had a serious puncture (one that meant I needed to use the spare) was 30 years ago I carry a pump and a puncture repair kit anyway I think that the spare on the back door looks fugly (I would fill the funny shaped indentation leaving a smooth (hopefully) back door) So - I am looking for opinions (not arguments, keep it light): Should I or should I not remove the spare wheel and it's carrier?

The sliders that I have seen for the D2 bolt on to the sills - so yes, the body. and as for rust, if i clear it all up now, it will probably see me out before it needs doing again

I have a Disco 2 and am thinking of getting a set of rock/tree sliders and welding them on (puddle weld in the holes and seam weld the edges where possible/easy).. Are there any downsides with this approach? Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys - thought provoking and helpful.... I see that LR4x4 forums have not changed in the two or three years I have been away Not legal in uk if not European type approved for that vehicle... It's not commercial, and I appreciate your other comments Happyoldgit... It's just that the NAS spec stuff is so damned sexy compared to ours: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/NAS_hitch.html

OK - more detail then - I am looking at an NAS receiver type of towbar fitting for a Disco2. These are obviously common and are approved in the USA, and are purpose built for the Disco2, so I have no qualms on safety grounds, but was wondering what the possible penalty might be if an officer of the law decided to do an inspection of my trailer etc and noticed that the towing fitting on the car has no TA label.

Simple question - which I have googles and searched for the answer but failed... what are the ramifications and likely penalties for fitting non type approved components? (if one is caught ) Cheers Roger

Just like me!

hah - I have posted on this topic before!:

I once had a Peugeot (I think) where replacement clutch hydraulics came complete and pre filled - ie there was a master cylinder, a length of pipe and a slave cylinder to be fitted as a unit. There was no screw cap - just a sort of pressed on thing IIRC. I know nothing about Freelanders so forgive me if this is irrelevant, but sealed (pre-filled) clutch hydraulic systems do exist. Regards, Roger