ThreeSheds

No such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers As well as the flexi pipe mentioned above I have seen the metal pipe get squished when putting an engine back in *not in a Land Rover though

also - on the clutch problem, check that the pipe isn't crimped somewhere. Lovely looking series and welcome to the forum

I was wondering about that too, and since rusty-chassis D2s are two a penny, perhaps a 'new' complete body would be easier that just changing the roof...

an 'oily' ?

Oooh narsty! Lucky that the damage is limited to the roof panel like that. I am pretty busy over the weekend but I'll try to nip out tonight and get some snaps

Top one went in ok...

Finally... after two bottom ball joints and two presses... it's in: There is a trick I'd like to pass on: how to straighten the joint If it starts to go in a bit cockeyed, just grind a bit if metal to fit the tightest part of the gap, then carry on tightening the screw: Worked a treat

Pretty certain it's welded... Just to clarify - the actual outer skin (which is steel) appears to be spot welded at the edges - I think that the supports and cross braces are not welded to the actual roof panel (probably since this would cause unsightly witness marks). Hope this helps. p.s. I have the rear of my roofliner out at the moment so could photograph some detail in that area if you want...

I think I will follow Red90's advice - you must be better at this internet thing than me, the best price I could find was well over £100! Thanks for the link Oh and wrt digital... It's not that I hate them, I just don't want one... You see since I got my old dial one forty years ago, I have had (and subsequently discarded) two digital ones (one was free and one was cheap, so not worth crying over)..., The problem I find with digital ones is that when I need them, it always seems that the battery is flat and I end up digging out my old dial caliper again.

This has me stumped... How are you bleeding the brakes? Using a vacuum pump by any chance?

My 40 year old Mitutoyo 150mm dial caliper has finally given up the ghost so I am looking for a replacement... Best I can afford is £100 and would prefer new. Not interested in vernier or electronic... Would anybody recommend anything please?

Well I decided to buy another G clamp/press thing... and it turns out that they are NOT 'all the same' ... The new one has a significantly coarser thread (a bad thing when you are after linear force) in fact it's five threads to the old one's six. Anyway - I decided to put the old one to good use and welded it to the new one as reinforcement, after checking that they are both steel not iron of course. It's not pretty but it's got to be stronger I think...

Excellent! I just gave up and fitted a whole 2nd hand unit!

I'd second that, but with the addition of the transmission oil filter too - I am thinking it maybe something related to the autobox...

Above... From the top, the original, the Bearmach (Well it came in a Bearmach box anyway), and the original LR part at over three times the cost of the middle one. So, what diameter was the original? About 44.35mm... And what diameter was the 'Bearmach' part? 45.2mm 😮 Unfortunately I only measured it after I had ruined it when my tool bent and slipped off: So, I hear you ask... what is the diameter of the LR part? ... ... 44.35mm also the overall quality is better with chamfers where they should be, etc. etc. I am busy for a few evenings now but hope to get it fitted before the weekend.

Agree with Mutley (an also hopefully not going to upset anyone with my opinion) - Production parts are generally as cheap as the manufacturer thinks they can get away with - look at the maestro parts on early RRCs and Discos for confirmation... So I would think that it is entirely possible that an antenna from a specialist company who rely on reputation could be better than an original part... Of course it could be worse too - which is why we are having this chat and hoping that somebody will say: "I tried this and it's fantastic!"

Watching with interest...

OK - you have me there... But Bernoulli would argue that the gas moving through the manifold would be at a lower pressure than ambient just by the fact that it is moving... so I would suggest that there will still be 'vacuum' (ie reduced pressure compared to ambient) in the manifold below the (even wide open) carburettor... Sorry, but I am a programmer - I am paid to be pedantic!

So what sucks the petrol in?

I'm currently having a nightmare with the bottom balljoint on mine. I am bending the G clamp thing (same as yours) but it won't go in. I think it may be too big... the one I took out is 34.35mm dia, but the one that I have to put back in (a Bearmach one) is 35.15mm dia 😮

How to remove top ball joint...

Hot gearbox (and diffs) is normal after a longish trip in my experience, whether towing or not

Got an arrangement that looks like it would work (I cut the thread off the ball joint for clearance first) And hit it here (after tightening to the torque of earghhhh) And never was there so much joy over so little movement!

I was more cleaning it than removing it... But don't you need to adjust it on reassembly if you are fitting new ball joints? Maybe I am not understanding this, but I thought that the process for fitting the 'knuckle' after the new ball joints are installed, was: fit the knuckle over the two ball joint tapers do up the top ball joint taper nut Adjust the collet to remove any slack do up the bottom ball joint taper nut Perhaps you could clarify please?