ThreeSheds

Not resolved yet (this for the benefit of other readers - hicks and I are in direct communication.) I wonder if ANYONE has one of these units that actually works correctly all the time?

Glad to hear that - I was beginning to think I should change my plans to fit spacers sometime in the future... Hope you don't mind if I ask a couple of questions... Do you use threadlock? Do you regularly re-torque them? Roger

maybe i am missing something - can't you just photograph the nozzle held against some graph paper?

3. It is waterproof which not all greases are..

Hi... I have done a search - honest! but cant find threads on this anywhere... No doubt somebody will post links to several now Having various electronic packages under the front seats troubles me - especially with past knowledge of the efficacy of Disco door seals... Even a relatively gentle bit of wading could result in a flooded gearbox ecu, cd autochanger and amplifier. I don't actually want to remove any of these components, but was thinking that repositioning them a little more out of harm's way would be a good idea. So I am looking for suggestions, or links to a previous thread on this please. The main thing that is troubling me is where to put them, and will extending the wires require any special (shielded?) cables? Thanks Rog

wow!

I'm afraid that the Disco 2 has it's own peculiar mounting system that would not fit any universal blade that I have seen. * There are people on the bay of e listing aero blades to fit, and maybe I should believe them...

Thanks for that people! As usual, excellent advice on the best of fora...

Hi,0 Last year I inherited a Disco 2 TD5, which is very much a 'second car'. But with the recent cold spell and my home situation (both single-track access roads being steep and covered in snow) it has become my main transport for the moment, and I have noticed that it starts fine even well below zero, without use of the heaters. My question is - is it better to use the heaters anyway? Do they help with cold running after startup, or anything else that I haven't thought of? Cheers, Rog

thought I'd resurrect this one this one with a question: Does anyone know of an 'aero' blade that fits the plastic wiper arms of the D2, or do I have to swap them for D1 steel arms? I have run aero blades on all my cars for many years now and I really think they are worth the trouble anyway, but this recent cold spell has seen me pulling up mid journey to 'slap' the current wipers on the screen to free off the frozen pivots... Without this attention the wiper stays in the slight arc shape and leaves an unwiped area right in front of my eyes. Rog

Does anyone else look out at the snow and say (in the style of Gene Hunt) : "Right! Let's fire up the Disco"

Not sure if this is any help, but mine is a TD5 Disco - and may be similar in this respect: when entering the EKA code there is no feedback, but it works. I just make very deliberate key movements...

Another vote for sykes pickavant and cunifer, with good cut-off tool. Also a deburring tool helps a good flare (I think there my be one in the SP kit)

at £13 for a battery powered detector... I hope you do now

At least this wouldn't happen because we would all fit a CO detector in the van nomatter what make of heater we are using, right?

Not sure if the image of a flaming car is really the right message here.. (also not sure if the image will actually display, but if it doesn't then it's an ad for a heater with flaming car in the background) :D

I will be removing the airbagged steering wheel on my D2 soon and have done numerous searches and watched several videos that include the topic and none of them have mentioned resetting the SRS light... You DO, of course have to remove the battery some minutes (people say anything from 5 to 30 minutes - I am going to go for a cup of tea) before starting work and not reconnect it until after everything is connected so I can't see how the BCU can tell if the airbag has been disconnected and reconnected while it was 'offline' anyway... Hope this helps

Reading this thread for the first time and am just getting to the "So in love it hurts" stage. Lovely work Sir!

Thanks for the guidance people. I think I read somewhere that the ACE only works fully over 45kph, so I might need more than a car park for my figure eights... However the principle sounds good and there are some nice curvy roads around here that don't see much traffic, so maybe I'll give it a go on a quiet Sunday morning

Simple question... Has anybody successfully bled the ACE system after (say) replacing a pipe, without using Nanocom or similar. I will have to change one of the HP pipes soon and I read somewhere (can't find it now) on tinternet that the system will self bleed of you 'rock the car'... Anyone know if this is true? Cheers, Roger

Where were you camping? (clue: I don't think that's Renfrewshire)

Nothing to see here... Move along please.. Yep... Everything looks normal here... Ahh, now that is getting interesting

Light hearted answer: It offends me to put exhaust gas back in the engine... After all that effort getting cooled, clean air into the inlet, to then mix it with hot, oily, smokey air just seems wrong. One plan would be to block the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold, but leave it in place (a little bit of stainless, cut to shape and trapped by the existing pipe, with exhaust paste should do it), and then replace the valve block at the inlet end with one of those bypass kits, leaving all of the pipework and EGR cooler in place. To a casual look it will appear that all is still intact under the sound deadening cover, and if on further examination one gets an MoT fail, one could refit the valve block and submit it for retesting. If one has to to refit the valve block then one will have wasted what? £25? on a kit, but I seriously doubt that that will happen.... Allegedly...

There are these, but they are rather expensive: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-20-x-M14-x-1-5-27mm-Hex-Alloy-Wheel-Nuts/172202468700?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

Mine hates power tools - especially it seems the newer ones with the brushless motors? Maybe they emit ultrasound I thought... Bot this one and the previous dog must be removed from hte locality if welding though - they seem to have a fascination for the arc, and I would hate for them to get arc-eye...