ThreeSheds

Lynx instructions seems to imply that you can do it without any numbers - you just have the ignition on and the lynx thing in the correct mode and press the keyfob (each of them) (16 times?)... There is a video showing it being done for a defender but they say it works for other cars too... It would be nice if anyone can confirm thatt this works for the Discovery 2 though...

There are usually some on ebay...

I am getting on a bit now - and am just hoping that I can continue to afford to drive for the next ten years or so. After that it won't matter. But for me - I am just please to have lived through the golden age of cars - when I could drive what I wanted and never think of the cost... Blimey - as a normal working man, I used to do a daily 190 mile commute in an XJ6 at around 95mph... No radar, cheap tax and insurance, and around 12mpg... I don't remember even thinking of the cost... Then I look at the future - ever increasing tax, insurance and fuel prices, and electric self-driving cars.... I feel sorry for the upcoming generation of drivers.

Disco2 and P38 alloys are the same and have parallel holes (so the nut has a flange and washer) the diameter of the part of the nut that goes through the hole is 29mm. On Disco3 and later I think the same part is 27mm dia but not 100% sure on that...

Got a PDM60 on my motorcycle - very easy to set up and appears bulletproof, but I would have thought, a bit limited in number of outputs for a project Land Rover?

me too

I have never yet had any form, type, or mix of penetrating fluid do any good on these bolts. I have tried on an RRC (I cut them out and replaced them in the end), a Disco 1 (gave up and scrapped it before ever getting them out) and my current Disco 2 (going to take it to a local friendly garage for a bit of thermal help). IMHO oxy is the only guaranteed answer without cutting. Good luck!

oooh I like that! Do you sell them?

Sorry Miggit, but I disagree with you on this point - IMHO the torque settings for a wheel nut are set a safe levels assuming that all five are evenly done up... I hear you brother! :D... I have even tried at times to devise some sort of lever or jacking system that would help... I often find that I have to sit back for a few moments rest between getting the wheel on the hub and fitting the nuts - such are the pleasures of a dicky heart and 'statin pains' Yes - I have seen these and they look good (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172202468700). It would be nice to get rid of the tin cover and the corrosion of the inner nut that causes bloating problems, but they are three times the cost of normal nuts

Teabag, my problem is that I have some medical/drug relted conditions that make undoing 20 wheenuts by hand a bit of a chore... So it's me that wants to use the rattle gun for undoing and spinning on (but not tightening) them. I am also undertaking some restoration and conversion work which means that I may be taking the wheels off quite often.. Hence the question I think that I have decided to forget about locking wheelnuts for the moment - especially since it seems particularly easy to defeat most if not all of them. But thanks for the answer - all opinions are much appreciated. Roger

As part of my 'stealth camper' conversion, I need to reposition the woofer(s) from the rear door to the back of the roof. I have found though, that one of the two speakers is damaged and also I don't think that the design of the 'cabinet' is up to scratch, so I am thinking of replacing the two of them with a single unit that is shallower but of larger diameter... The thing is, I know nothing about hifi, so I was wondering if anyone can advise - is my idea sensible or would I be better off getting a pair of second hand original units?

Simple question - does anyone know of a type of locking wheelnut for Discovery TD5 alloys, that will stand being undone with a rattle gun...

Useful info Dave - that makes perfect sense. The supplied lead has no switchbox, but is supposed to be bespoke for LR products so I think I can ignore the message as being a leftover from earlier times, and assume that the wire is set up correctly. On that basis it looks like that particular message is a red herring. I will look for a software update and also uninstall/reinstall the software anyway, since I recall now that I had to use a different USB port each time I ran it and I have now run out of new ports ( yes-s I know that should make no difference, but...) Thanks guys - your help has saved the Lynx from the fiery pit.... R

You could consider wiring it through a voltage sensing relay so that everything goes off if the voltage drops below a predetermined level. I have one on my motorcycle that cuts the supply at 12.6v IIRC...

Thanks for the reply, but I have used it before, also, the next instruction after the "set harness switch" one, is turn on the ignition If I ignore the harness instruction and switch on the ignition, then I get a "starting communication with the vehicle" (or something like that) which has a progress bar which never moves. I have the battery on a charger as is instructs on startup. I have tried different USB ports and restarting the computer both with and without the lynx thing connected. I remember having trouble before and it suddenly just worked , but this time it has beaten me... I think I'll just buy another diagnostic tool (anything that isn't Britpart) and set fire to this one...

Found a manual - but it says nothing about a body harness switch - britpart eh...

I inherited a Lynx diagnostic thing with my disco2, but no instructions... In the past I have used it to reset fault codes, but now I am trying to program some keyfobs and it is telling me to: "Set harness switch to position A1" Does anyone know what this means? I have tried to download an instruction manual but just get 404 file not found. likewise searching for that phrase on google results in nothing sensible... Help please!

Not for any advantage - I just can't stand the thought of all that weight bouncing around on the back door!

Fitted and tested... working fine Thats £440 + labour saved

I was removing the xyz switch and I placed the nuts, bolts, and the special dooberry that clamps the shift cable to the change lever, all together in a magnetic parts tray, upside down on the chassis. On my way out from under the car I knocked the tray off, but knowing it was magnetic, I ASSUMED that all the parts were still in it. Two days later and I am refitting the switch and I find that the dooberry is not there! After an hour of searching everywhere I finally gave up for the day (it was getting dark) and thought that I would pop out later with a powerful torch to look for it (grazing light is good for showing up things). So I took the dog for a walk and, on returning in pretty much darkness, I walked straight up to the car and saw it on the ground... It is by no means the first time that I have found precious things that were lost. I wonder if I have a talent for it or if I am just plain lucky 😊

I have alloy wheels on my Disco 2, and the nuts have corroded under the caps, meaning that I can't get my impact socket on them without a struggle. (I have to use a rattle-gun to undo my wheelnuts since I am not as strong as I used to be). I don't particularly want to replace them with the same so... A while ago I found some wheelnuts for sale on ebay that were intended as replacements for the standard alloy-wheel nuts with the silly cap thing, but were solid machined steel, but now I can't find them. Can anyone help please? I guess as an alternative I could buy the normal ones and boil them in Linklife before use - that should stop them corroding

In the 80's and a Transit? Must have been doing 90... They didn't go any less than that

So... Occasionally I get the flashing M+S warning on the dash, which goes if turn the ignition off and rapidly move the stick through it's full movement a few times. Recently it has been getting worse to the point where i have to stop every few miles to sort it, so I thought I would have look at the XYZ switch, which is well known to be the most likely culprit for this problem. Since a new one is upwards of £400 and a second hand one may be the same condition as mine, I decided to have a look inside it First - my car has a cat which means that I can't get to the XYZ switch without removing the J pipe... which means I need to remove the front cross-member which turned out to be a bit of nightmare with four bolts shearing and two rounding off. The J pipe came off ok (surprise!), and after a struggle to get the change lever off (the one that sits outboard of the XYZ switch), I removed the XYZ switch it's self. That much is well documented elsewhere, so no pics of that, but now - lets have a look at the actual switch which, as we all know, looks like this: Firstly I checked the condition of the plug, which has been known to cause trouble, but mine was like new: In fact the whole switch looked pretty good: And as you can see, it is held together with seven alloy rivets: which need to be drilled out. Here was the first problem because as soon as I started to drill, they started spinning, leading to this mess: Initially I was using a 6mm drill bit. After some experimentation and a lot more mess, I found that by using a 4mm bit at high speed, and by being really gentle - I was able to drill them out and open the case up: What a surprise! I was expecting a gungy mess of corrosion, but again - it looked like new... This was troubling - if I could find nothing wrong then it's obviously going to be something rather more expensive A closer inspection of the underside of the rotor revealed that the 'heavy side looked ok (although one of the tangs was a little bit low - maybe 0.5mm - so I levered it up a bit) but that tracks that it operated on showed signs of corrosion or arcing perhaps... it's difficult to photograph, but look where the greenish pointer is. that's where the marks are: The other side of the rotor showed definite signs of corrosion or arcing or something on one of the contacts but it's track was ok - see the fourth one from the left: So, I cleaned everything up, removed the old grease, lightly cleaned the contacts with VERY fine emery (8000 I think), lubed it up and put it back together. On the subject of cleaning, I have read somewhere that the contacts should not be cleaned because it will remove the plating. I reasoned that cleaning would be better than the oxidation and/or burned grease that was there and that if it only works for a while then I am no worse off when it next fails... Also - on the subject of lubrication: It appeared to have some thin white grease applied originally, but after looking at my range of options I decided on a thin brush-application of ACF50. Hopefully nobody will throw their hands up in horror at this, but if they do then it won't be going back on the car until boxing day so speak now or forever hold your grease... Now for the reassembly - well it's remarkably simple really - you just put it back together and screw it up with M4x16 Allen bolts and nyloc nuts. I used stainless ones and only did them up lightly since the original rivets were not that tight: The screw heads do stand proud, but should clear ok. One of the nuts is a little tricky to hold but snipey pliers were enough for the gentle torque I was using: After I had finished reassembling the switch I noticed a possible reason why it looked so clean - is that 170912 a manufactured date perhaps? Anyway - next I am going to fill the corrugated wire protection with waterproof grease and then refit it. If anyone is thinking of trying this, give it a go, it's not that hard. Oh and I found out that the cross member does not need to be removed since the (disconnected) J pipe can be slid far enough to gain access with it still in place. Finally - I had to go out and buy some 4mm nuts and bolts, which come in bags of fifty - so if you are thinking of doing this, and if you are a supporting member, pm me and I will send you a set of seven nuts and bolts suitable for the job - I have enough spare for the first four applicants...

I've been saying similar for decades - You need to ask an accountant

Thanks all