discomark10

IMHO if its a second set of tyres with rims.. get the most aggressive tread as possible which is road legal, and anything over 235 width isnt going to help the performance unless as stated above you use on soft ground like snow or sand.

that looks fine, you just need to get the other side of the staggered belt wheel http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman-12x36/images/DCMotor-1.jpg for example

At speed yes, not at slower speeds so much

Interesting build! Liking the amount of custom fabrication you are doing. The Ackermann thing is very interesting. i hope to make an adapter to give the extra bit of missing angle on the track rod arms on my disco, is there any easy way of calculating the amount needed? like a formula or something? had a bit of a look but cannot find much at all about it!

looks like a bit more!

what are the diff casings made from? wouldnt be to hard to weld or pay for a couple of mounts to be welded/tig'd on

that sort of movement do you get with the mkIII ?

Have you got a part number for the ball joint?

I must admit, I do like the idea of the Atomic style axle!

I know you can get boots for small rose joints, not sure about the 30mm ones, but that can be worked on. Main thing is to make sure it wont snap under strain.

What are peoples thoughts on replacing the A frame ball joint with a large (say 30mm) rose joint, would allow unlimited articulation.

I got my rebuild parts from realsteal, the gears are both metal, wouldn't be worth changing the cam without the lifters... then your getting closer to a rebuild lol. chain and gears defo worth changing while you have access

By far the best solution for minimal unsprung weight is independent suspension

Interesting thread, I like the idea of the Single point setup on the front end, but I do like the A frame setup on the rear which is let down by the ball joint! Bill have you got any pics or anything for this, as I've been thinking of doing something similar

Arch lift does sound like a better option - good thinking! Just be careful when you go for a higher spring rate on the front to match the back's height, your not moving from an even balance of extension and compression - to a lot of compression and not much extension..

Ide go for as soft as possible without losing ride hight, just make sure you get a suitible bump stop and shock mounts so the the shocks dont bottom out. I would have thought you want to be sitting about half way on the spring travel so you get good articulation? why do you want more hight? is it for wheel clearance, if so body lift would be best as it does not compromise the suspension setup.

Ive got a duel fan setup, have them come on a different temps so they only come on when/if needed, also got an override so they can be turned off or on. didnt cost much at all to setup, just a couple relays, thermostatic switches and a bunch of wire.

Well, The D2 arms are of a better design, similar to the rose joint after market arms you can get for the D1 ect, but they still both suffer from restriction on the axle end which isnt easy to overcome.

My spider died, so I traced a bunch of wires back (had the dash out btw) and ripped it out, just manual locking for me now

a sheet of metal welded in place of the waterfall, or failing that tigerseal

Also didnt know there was a guide! will have to check it out!

This would probly be the outcome when you try it.

longer springs wouldnt allow as much compresion as the would bottom out unless they are mounted higher (which they are not lol), they have a greater spring rate so the sit higher as there is less presure on them.

Hey, just doing a similar thing with my disco, im traybacking it. The +2 springs have a higher spring rate over standard springs, so they sit higher and will require more presure to compress them fully. As you and I have less weight you will need a softer (lower rate) spring to sit at an even hight so you have a good amount of travel up and down. As for the Shocks, the +5's are about 2.5 inches longer when closed so idealy you want a mount that is higher by 2.5 inches so the dont bottom out. Also just a note. As you have less weight and should have softer springs the shocks should also have a lower damping rate, but thats not easy/cheap and not 100% how much its going to affect it.

Good idea, it would have to set up right or you'd have a nice kangaroo on the back Would it be an idea to make it all electric?