discomark10

has it got a cage, if its MSA spec.. the king cab has too much space behind the drivers head usually

Why have I stumbled across this thread! This swap looks a brilliant solution to the landy downfalls... lack of power from the diesels and lack of reliability and mpg from the v8's. The Mrs will kill me if I mention doing an engine swap.. only just rebuild the v8!

Is it necessary to run it with it in, does it make much difference?

I like the idea of the welded bell housings, did it take much work to get them jigged up for welding?

But it's all down to the terrain! 1 tyre is not perfect for all situations

sloppy mud has almost no grip as its mainly water.. when you have grip in the slopy stuf its down to your tyres reaching something which it can gain a bit of traction on. whether you sink is not down to the depth necessarily, but down to the type of mud under the watery slop.. if its more solid mud then thin tryes are better, but if its silty/soft mud the wider will be an advantage

Thats a very good point, the ploblem with learning from the yanks on pirate is its not necessarily relevant for us in reguards to desired builds

Hmm, so if you had a fixed amount of anti-squat it wouldn't be an issue, but what causes the hop is that whe the geometry changes the anti-squat amount increases and causes a sort of loop of rising and falling anti-squat as it pushes back? Is that how it works?

Depends on what terrain, most of the time larger diameter (taller) and wider will be an advantage as it will give you a larger footprint (more friction/grip) Sometimes, like in sticky mud a tall thin tyre will work better.

even a cheapo digital one is plenty good enough, the old man has an old analogue one, expensive ones and cheapo ones, they all work just as well for simple stuf! (45 years working with electronics!)

depends what terrain you use it on, if you do any amount of hill climbing I'de keep the anti-squat to a reasonable level (I believe 50% is about right, right?) anti-squat on the rear causes death hop.

I work in CCTV, to be honest its a huge misconception! people think it will stop people nicking stuf, or make it easy for the police to catch the crims, but really and truthfully its just a deterrent! Even when people have been caught on CCTV nicking stuf with a half decent image still no one is caught 90% of the time, and the majority of the ones that are caught get away due to reasonable doubt over the images! If you can find cheap remote monitoring they can do audio tannoy's and call you if anyone is seen that looks suspicious by vehicle/property and you can run out naked with the chainsaw! This is the good part.. they will pay out for the loss. If they saw someone but failed to take action in time or if they failed to take action if they deemed it unwarranted providing its in the agreement and its not like a vehicle insurance claim, you tell them what its worth, not what they deem it to be worth! It can be reasonably cheep to get coverage providing you only have a couple cams (perfect for a vehicle)

Why not run your measurements through the 3 link calculator from pirate?

hmm ok so the rubber is the weak point. I've thought about getting a bush made (say double the size) but I could Imagen that tooling costs would be to much to warrant it.

What are peoples thoughts on a radius arm chassis end bush as the 1link joint? http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/land-rover-discovery/discovery-1/parts/suspension/rear-suspension/ntc9027-bush-front-of-rear-radius-arm-90110-1990-my-onand-range-rover-classic-discovery-1992-my-onwards-.html Its M20 I beleave and an 8.8 M20 has a shear strength of about 140 KN, is that enough? I'm no where near smart enough to work out how much force could be transferred to the joint! This would be the configuration..

I thought this would be stronger as it would give me more area to bolt it to the chassis.

its upside down but basically to aid clearance.in the centre

I'de also appreciate that pic as I want to start building my 1 link in the next month and I'm struggling to make my mind up on what to do with the joint., which also brings me to the X-member For the X-member I plan to make something like this.(see the high spec cad diagram below) I plan to make it out of say 6mm sheet. There's no room to mount it up within the chassis rails so it will have to hang below a little bit. The reason for the shape is down to wanting front and rear mounting points for the 1links and to reduce the risk of getting "hung up" on a mound for example compared to a square profile X-member. Only issue is objects (like a rocks) fouling it when travelling forward/backwards, but I hope to alter it very slightly to reduce some of the sharp angles to aid going over objects like rocks. What are peoples thoughts? Cheers P.S. the dimensions are not final, just a guestimation at this point.

235/85/16

Might be worth doing a full rebuild, for the effort your going to, might as well get a (almost) new engine while your at it!

theres a 8(something) comp 3.5 which I have in mine.

I believe procomp have a lifetime warranty

The only suitable bush ive seen is a d1 radius arm pin/bush (chassis end) it has unlimited flex (rotation)

I got the 15" procomp atm, and ran the +2 ones for a couple years.. cant complain.

is the A frame ball joint strong enough, some different forces involved with a 1 link. I do like the lorry bush idea..