discomark10

Thought this might be useful to some, so.. I finished my install of the MJ today and got it running with the distributor and coil providing the pulses for the 14CUX ECU. I don't wish to run the dizy/coil in place so me and the old man (electronics wizard) set to finding out how to make the MJ provide the pulses. We scoped the pulses from the dizy/coil and it seems to be getting about 75 volt spikes, We put in some Zenor diodes limiting the voltage and come to the conclusion you need around 60+ volt spike every 2 seconds (at least) to get the ECU it to accept it. 1 coil earth (to EDIS8) on the MJ only seems to provide about 40 volts at a rate of about 2 a second, which is about half of the original dizy/coil voltage but enough frequency. Going to try and make a voltage doubler circuit or similar to jump the 40 volts to around 80. The other thing that I could do is use the EDIS8 tacho output and jump the voltage to around 75. Cheers Mark

You still working on this one?

Yea that makes sense, Its all new to me so having to get my head around it. I'm tempted to setup a knock sensor, even if its just to a pair of headphones to get it setup. Something like this http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/knock-detection.htm

Be interesting to know the weight, the Rv8 is around 200-220kg

lighter than a rv8? I was under the impression that it was a very light engine being all ali.

Cheers Having a look though the rest of the links and looking at your map, how on earth are you running 46 deg with no knock?

Jamie your a gent, thanks for all the great links. Mine is indeed a 8:5.1. So from my understanding you can run more advance with a higher RON fuel as it is more resistant to knock (pre-detination) According to Nige's post the max advance on a 3.5 is 36. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15317&view=findpost&p=239333 3.5s - Max of 36 degrees at around 3100-3200 .........(if you have a 'sleeved 3.5' with reduced CC (ie 3400) then 38 Degrees at 3200) 3.9s Maximum of 34 degrees 3750-3850 4.2s to 4.5s max 31 degrees @ 3900-4000 4.6s and bigger Max 28 @ 3750-4000 According to this table below and presuming its scales up the rev range with a low comp I can run more advance on the same RON fuel on a low comp motor. <table 712"="" border="1" style="margin: auto; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium;"> At 600 rpm Compression Timing 10.5:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 100 minimum research octane number. TDC for use with fuel of 96 to 99 minimum reasearch octance number 9.25:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 96 minimum research octane number 8.5:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 90 minimum research octane number for a 3.5 at max advance (36deg) 9.25:1 on 96 is 0.375 deg per RON 8.5:1 on 90 is 0.4 deg RON so 95 (regular unleaded) is 38 deg 97 is 38.8 deg So does this sound right? Cheers Mark

Why a v8 may I ask? A petrol can be made to work as well as a derv for water, and usually more power.

I'm looking to do this. I know a guy who has a 4.0 and 4.6 with a duff liner. Is it worth running high comp over std?

If it fits the best option would be either run the engine and box with a divorced lt230 or make an adaptor for the bell housing to r380 and get an input shaft made up. IMO

Hi guys, Just installing a MJ setup on my 3.5 efi. Been reading about the advance map table and that a smaller CU can run more advance, my question is what the max on a 3.5? And also does it matter what the compression ratio is? Cheers Mark

This Buick v6, what year is it? I may be wrong but didn't they make a V6 variation of the Buick 213 (Rover V8) is that what this is? Out of curiosity how come your going for the lt95 and not a stumpy r380?

I know its not cheap but RedWinch do some BEEFY alternators to fit most, check them out. Are you on V or flat belt?

Sounds good, I did a run up to the lake district from Buckinghamshire last month in my 3.5V8 and got 14MPG Not sure if i'de swap still.

Looking good there.. keep up the work, you'l iron out the issues eventually..

Yea I seccond that, I'm constantly asking the passenger to check that side while reversing!

Looks good so far, your going to want to change the rear springs, mine with +2's was stupidly high. I ended up going with LR Yellow/Red springs, they work well and are the longest springs with that sort of spring rate.

So what the 4.2/4.6 RV8? they had the 3.5 in some series, so shouldn't be to bad.

Unless you need to be able to run in very cold temps, ditch the bit under the plenum with the 2 small pipes.

I had the same with the photobucket folders. change the address for them .. htp://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r305/miketomcat/IMAG0898.jpg to htp://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r305/miketomcat/***FOLDER***/IMAG0898.jpg just cut and paste the /***FOLDER*** bit with the folder name in the right place for each. easier than re pasting all the links

you should be ok, I'm looking to start mine soon and mine has cats.. looks tight, but doable!

I have to agree, a one-link would be a good choice, you could make it so it bolts on the original radius mounts so you could replace the axle if needed. I'm going to assume the RRC is a V8? If so there might be a bit of clearance issues IF your down pipes go over the cross member with cats, can be a little tight! Is the rear a parallel 4 link with panard, rather than A frame? I'd keep that if your after some good flex, as the ball joint in the A frame can be restrictive!

Very impressed at that exhaust, where did you get all the pipe bits from and what was the cost? Its looking like I might be needing to redesign my Y on the RV8 to aid clearance for the 1link.

Right ok then, still think HD is better fitting as excess is in reference to amount, not very fitting for anything other than the jets. Just my 10 cents

whats the XS stand for?