paintman

Yes.

If the layshaft had failed I would expect you would get some drive in 4th - being essentially straight through the gearbox. Have had this on a 5-speed Ford box - see 1 below but without input shaft to mainshaft spline damage - which drove fine in 4th but nothing else making for a very interesting weekends driving! As you haven't, I think it possible that either: 1. The input shaft bearing has failed allowing it to flail & destroy the input shaft & layshaft meshing gear AND the join of the input shaft to the main shaft 2. The mainshaft has snapped inside the rear of the box, hence you can select gears but nothing comes out of the back.

Wipers http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_820.htm Indicators http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_150.htm

^^^^^Ditto^^^^^. Usually with blue hylomar on the face before fitting the gasket.

Generally if it shows a gasket you would be advised to use one. The various RTV or specified sealants are very good in those applications where used as oe. As an example, my RRC is an 86 3.5. The manuals show a cork/rubber gasket for the sump to block joint. The later RRC V8 covered by the Rave disc shows just sealant. Having tried it with just sealant - for about 4 days! - it now has the correct gasket. Some areas require the gasket as a spacer. The V8 oil pump has a thin paper gasket. If you leave the gasket out the pump gears will be nipped up by the cover.

The Rave manual doesn't cover the earlier ones although I would have thought a 93 would be. I'll have to dig out the disc later Mine's an 86 & I work from the LR workshop manual (about 2 1/2 inches thick!)Publication Number SRR660ENWM which covers MY 1986 to 1989 which is the 3.5 carb & EFi (hotwire & flapper), the VM diesels, LT230 & BW transfer boxes, ZF autobox & LT77 manual. Be worth looking out for one, IIRC I bought mine through the LRO online bookshop about 14 years ago. IIRC the clockside vents will pull off the dash (my wife managed to do that when cleaning inside the car!) & click back in but I've not had to take that part of the dash apart so I don't know what you'll find behind them. There are 6 hoses from the heater, 2 leaf to the cirular vents on top of the dash, 2 lead to the vents at each side of the dash and the other 2 run under the transmission tunnel cover & stick out of the rear of the cubby box to provide air to the rear floor. I haven't got aircon so can't help with any pipework for that.

Yes, hot air out of the vents on top of the dash, the little ones at each end of the dash to blow on the front door windows & the ones that heat your feet.

Manual says to remove the sl unit. IIRC when I did mine (its a while ago!) I believe I just jacked the chassis up without raising the wheels off the ground. Remove the through bolts that hold the ball joint carrier to the upper links. Ease the lower gaiter on the sl unit up & use a thin jawed spanner to undo the hex end of the pushrod that joins it to the ball joint on that end of the ball joint carrier. Undo the nut on the end of the ball joint where it fits into the axle. Using a suitable separator release the ball joint from the axle. You should now have the carrier off & ready for the ball joint to be replaced. Refit in reverse order. IIRC it was a bit of a fiddle getting the through bolts to line up, but that was solved by using a jack to push the sl unit up a bit.

Manuals at http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php The vents each side of the clock on mine (1986) are cold air only & operated by the up & down lever on the nearside of the heater controls (has an O at the bottom & a picture of a vent at the top). That's correct as they are not connected to the heating system so unless anyone knows different, I would think all Classics will be the same.

Please re-read my post about taking it to a garage with a press. I wasn't joking. No way I would even bother trying to do another one myself. Bashing it out may work. Bashing the new one in will probably break it. The bolt holes must line up perfectly throughout the install, it must go in dead square and seat fully home. Bashing the lugs usually bends them. Check other forums if you think we are being over dramatic. And if you can't get both the bolts in it's an MOT fail so you get to do it all over again. See http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47529

That's what I thought. That needs to be there so you'll need to renew it. The self-levelling device though can be removed if you like.

Don't forget to lower the vehicle back onto its wheels & let the suspension assume its normal position before fully tightening the bush bolts.

The self levelling device - boge strut - does not come with the A-frame to axle ball joint. Are you sure you are talking about the right item being faulty? Go back to Landyman's pics. If its the balljoint at the top of the pic that's faulty you are still going to need to deal with it. Its the self-levelling device that can be removed.

The self levelling device - boge strut - does not come with the A-frame to axle ball joint. Are you sure you are talking about the right item being faulty? Go back to Landyman's pics.

Quite possibly. Don't forget to lower the vehicle onto its wheels & let the supension settle before tightening the through bush bolts as if its up in the air you can preload the bushes leading to some odd handling & premature failure.

Markings for TDC etc are 'thereabouts'at best. Set by finding a nice piece of quiet road, get up to 30 in 4th then floor throttle. If no rattly pinking advance dizzy & try again until it does. Then turn back until it JUST pinks. According to spec my RRC should be set at TDC+/- 1 deg. According to the marks its actually running about 8deg BTDC.

Geoffs experience was about the same as mine then! The cat learnt some interesting new words

The A-frame and its ball joint which goes to the rear axle must remain connected. The ball joint is not expensive, but can be a complete pig to remove from the carrier which you can see at the top of Landymanlukes pics. It has two bolts through it into the carrier - viewed from below - but don't think that after disconnecting it from the axle it is a simple matter of undoing the bolts & tapping it out Best remove it and the carrier from the axle & A-frame & take it to a garage with the new ball joint & get them to press the old one out & the new one in. (garages have been known to break presses doing these!) It must go in square AND with the bolt holes lined up as there is no way you can just twist it a bit to get them to line up.

Click on the 'Help' option at the top right of the page, then on 'Your personal messenger' in the menu that appears. Tells you how to do it.

In addition to the Henry we've also got a 'George' and that can be used with or without bags & for water as well, plus shampooing carpets etc with the various attachments - but Mrs paintman won't let me use him in the garage!

I've used one of the 'Henry's for years in the workshop & when sanding filler with abranet - sucks the dust up a treat! Not managed to break it yet!

Do you have the Borg Warner or LT230 type transfer box fitted? Does the selector move just forwards & backwards or does it also move to the left to engage difflock? http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/category_4.html The BW has a viscous coupling & these are known to seize. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_26.html Also try jacking one rear wheel off the ground & with transfer box in N try to turn the wheel. It should turn freely. If not and assuming the wheel brakes aren't seized it would suggest the handbrake as described in the above post is seized or binding. If you don't have a workshop manual download one from http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php as it will make things a bit easier to understand!

If your radiator has hot & cold spots & you have overheating problems with no other apparent cause then it is likely that it is blocked internally. Give it a flush by all means, if you can get the Forte products they are the ones to go for, but the only real way to solve this problem is a new radiator. Don't be tempted by a used one as it may be no better than the old one. I replaced the one on my RRC about 18 months ago & the weight difference was quite surprising!

ROFLMAO. Classic! Helps to have a full bucket of water to hand when doing any welding!

Nice try, but due to the way the dizzy drive gear is cut you need to have the middle of the rotor arm pointing about 30 degrees BEFORE the No1 lead position (that's anticlockwise) before you refit it. Then as you insert & the gears mesh it will turn to point at No1.