paintman

Have a look at this part of ashcrofts FAQ. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html#a7 'I've just fitted a rebuilt gearbox to my Discovery...' etc

Follow the sequence in the manual. If you haven't got one then http://www.green-oval.com The TC should stay on the gearbox throughout the operations. No need to remove it. It is surprisingly heavy & unless the box & TC are new it will have alot of gearbox fluid in it even if you have drained the gearbox. You cannot drain it without removing it. Once you remove the 4 bolts that hold the flex plate to the TC the TC is not connected to the engine so unless the box is tipped downwards it shouldn't slide forward. You might want to put something across it to stop any chance of it doing so. These bolts are accessed by removing the cover plate at the bottom front of the bellhousing. You will need to turn the engine to get at them one at a time as they are at 90deg to each other. When refitting the engine check that the distance from a straight edge laid across the mouth of the gearbox bellhousing to the front of any of the 4 bosses (the threaded lumps that the flex plate is bolted to) on the TC is 50mm. That shows the TC is correctly engaged with the box pump. A couple of lengths of threaded rod screwed into a couple of the bellhousing bolt holes in the rear of the engine will help to line the box & engine up when refitting engine to box (or box to engine). Makes lining up a manual box after a clutch change dead easy. Also reduces the risk of a slip leaving the gearbox hanging on the input shaft. After the two units are pushed together & a couple of the ordinary bolts are in just renmove the threaded roda & fit the bolts.

Having learnt the hard way many years ago with a Scimitar (V6 3 litre Essex engine) I get head gaskets from the dealer as genuine parts only. The 'other make' head gasket on the Scimitar lasted a whole 500 miles.

That's because they are not intended as expansion plugs. They are there to fill holes left during the casting process. Some also to fill holes used for machining operations. Better explanation at http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_105.htm Keep your fingers crossed that you have no damage. VERY common in this last bit of cold weather as everyone is used to the mild winters we've had & hasn't bothered doing the antifreeze. Not a good idea as it also protects against internal corrosion

Best idea is to replace the existing sensor with a new one then see if it stays out. Can also occur if too thin a grade of oil is used. If you put a sensor in that doesn't put the light on when there is a problem you could finish up looking for a new engine.

My classic had the same problem. The hazard switch was sticking & to get the indicators working after having the hazards on needed pulling out to its proper position. New switch solved it.

Best not get caught in Leicestershire. Contrary to what some have said, the vehicle check will show if the vehicle is currently taxed & insured. And talking to a friend of mine (ex-colleague) who is in the road policing unit the vehicle will be seized & impounded & you will then have to make your own way to wherever it was you were going. They crushed a lot of vehicles last year. Harsh, but stops those who try all the ingenious excuses that have been pretty much covered in this thread.

And my Facom one has a disc on top that you turn instead of a lever.

Use the gears! In an auto it will stop the box going above the gear you have selected so you will get good engine braking albeit not as much as a manual box. And if necessary use low box on extreme hills. If you try & use the brakes continuously all the way down you'll find they get less & less effective as they heat up. I do (twin axle boat trailer) - esp on one hill which if I got it wrong at the 90deg turn at the bottom I would be over the cliff & onto the beach.

Start by checking the rear A-frame ball joint. Common source of clunks from the back. Use a lever between the frame & the top of the axle by the ball joint to lever the two apart. Should be little if any movement.

That one looks pretty good. Bigger tank would be nice, but prices seem to jump quite a bit when you go to 100litres. Spray gun & saw will probably use the most as the others are used in short bursts.

If you are now using the Disco filter can: They have given you the early one which is up to 1992. You need the later one. Take the old one with you. Have a look at the pics on the Famous Four website http://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/part...0-sec-serv.html but bear in mind the part numbers are their own.(or Ebay for that matter)

You might have a look through the rr.net link I put on the opther EAS question. Covers issues like compressor/valve block problems/air bag leaks etc. I did read somewhere in the past couple of days that a known issue is failed level sensors giving the same reading in several different positions, which thoroughly confuses the system.

There's a lot of info in http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/a...sion/index.html whether there's anything there that might help you?

I have a 2hp 50litre compressor which will happily run a Sata Minijet continuously. Note that that size of gun is intended for small & medium areas & I wouldn't want to tackle a bonnet or roof with it. (Certainly not on a paid job anyway, I have done it for our own cars) It will also run a rattle gun for short bursts but you do have to let it fill up again if you want full chat on the gun. When you look at compressors always have in mind what the biggest tool you are likely to use is going to be then buy the compressor that will run that. Bigger the motor the more it will deliver & bigger tank is better. Note that the output given for most is as displacement, the Free Air Delivery figure is what you are looking for & that is always a lot less than the displacement figure. Is there a tool specialist or better still a compressor specialist near you? Go in & pick their brains then shop around for best price. I assume you are running off domestic 240volts? The bigger compressors need 3-phase electrics. Some nice looking sealeys on ebay at round the price you are thinking of.

Yes, no more gas is able to enter the tank due to the tank float valve operating correctly so the flow of gas stops. But while the button is held the delivery pump continues to run. I've just never encountered one where the delivery pump itself actually switches off without the button being released.

Just tell them it was due to an excess of better things to do!

How olds the battery? Its cold weather that shows up dead or dying ones. Are the levels correct in the cells? Have you fully recharged the battery using a battery charger - driving about for a bit will not do it. If you connect a jump lead direct from your battery neg (earth) to the engine block does it make a difference?

If you can weld then why not use ready made joints? Try http://www.jetex.co.uk/index.php

I've never used an LPG fuel pump that cuts out when the vehicle tank is full, the gas flow just slows right down & stops - the pump display digits slow down & stop. The pumps I've used (all over England) have a button which after connecting the hose to the car you must press and keep pressed whilst fuelling. If you take your hand off the button the power to the pump is cut & the pump stops. So it sounds like the pump you used is entirely normal - unless there are different ones which I haven't met. Appears you are going to have to get the vehicle recovered to an LPG specialist to get it all checked out. Not got water in the electrics - lpg or ignition - as a result of the ford? Be an idea to clean & dry them.

As with much aftermarket non-standard stuff you assume ( or should that be hope) the maker knows what they are doing. Wonder how much testing some of this stuff undergoes? Or if it is approved by the vehicles manufacturer? Problem arises when something goes wrong & a vehicle examiner says that as a result of the modifications the vehicle was dangerous.

That's a huge air requirement & would need a big compressor to run the gun non-stop. But don't forget you are not going to be running the gun continuously. If the compressor has a big tank (receiver) you will be able to use the shutz gun but you will have to keep stopping to let the tank refill.

£29 worth of gas must have gone somewhere. What's the normal max capacity? Where are your tanks mounted? How many tanks do you have? I would have thought if it was going out at a high rate you would have noticed the cloud or at least the smell - and I don't mean the usual smell you get when filling. Have you damaged a pipe whilst offroading? If your tank has vented via a safety valve has the valve frozen open? Any leaks around the system? Sure the gauge is OK - they're usually a waste of time, I go on the trip meter. Is your coolant up to the right level? If its low & not keeping the vapouriser hot then the vap will freeze up & stop the gas flow. More common than you might think!

If its an old rad it may be well silted up internally. Any cold/cool spots on the rad? Flushing MAY get some of it out. Replaced mine recently & the weight difference was startling.

Do it properly. Change the gasket. Don't forget to check the head is true & undamaged. The other way is to put the K-Seal in. Its one of the very few that actually work.