il-bob

Y61 axles use 75w90 gear oil. I've got them on my tray back Range Rover. Been using these axles for the past months and abused alot. Currently running 36" Fedimas and no breakages so far but am upgrading to TSL 38s soon. Hopefully they will hold on bob

My disco runs a Gems 4.6V8 out of a P38 which is very similar to your 4.0V8. I got an ECU from RPI, the Mak Adam's ECU. it's basically the same GEMS ECU on which they do their magic and make it work without the need of the other ECUs. I can't complain with mine, it just works well with plenty of power. bob

We've just put Nissan Patrol Y61 on a Rangie and I can tell you it was not easy. Since it's wheelbase is 105", offset didn't make any difference on the rear. Axles came with a rear factory locker which is a bonus point, and got an ARB for the front. From the looks, they seem very heavy duty, but can only confirm when we finish the truck and try it out. bob

thanks for your input. Then i might leave as is and operate via vacuum. Do you have a link for any suitable vacuum switch? I've searched on google but am still perplexed

Thanks for your reply, but why a 5 port pneumatic switch? Doesn't the actuator move back to 'disengaged' position on it's own when switched off? Also, out of ignorance, can an air operated pneumatic switch be used, or is there a specific vacuum switch? thanks, bob

Hello, These last few months, I saw the light , and after some research I decided to put Y61 axles on my Range Rover proto, mostly since upgraded Landy axles will not hold more then 36" tyres without breaking. Quick look on ebay and got a pair of axles from a 2003 Patrol from the UK. Few weeks later and axles are now enjoying the sun in Malta After a few considerations, and a new front ARB locker, I'm considering the idea of converting rear factory diff lock to air activation, in order to have a single system. Has this been done before or any one can shed some light? Will post some pics of the RR in due course thanks, bob

It's been a while since this topic was opened, but been reading and re reading. Just bought a pair of Y61 GU axles which will replace RR axles. Wheelbase is at 103". Took out the measuring tape and measured the rear axle from diff centre to each side, and difference is of a couple of cm, about 4cm if I recall. Will those few cm make any difference in reducing vibration? Am asking before taking the plunge and start cutting down. thanks, bob

My brother is changing his RRC engine from 300tdi to Td5 out of a defender. He had the ecu chipped in order to get rid of the immobiliser

Here's some photoshopped pics done by a very good friend of mine of how it will look like.. Here how it looks like now ...soft top mode and conventional bobtail.. ...now decision time... which one do you prefer??

Can only upload some engine pics atm. But will post once the cutting starts

Mine will soon look similar :D but with rear half soft top and bobtailed. The 4.6 is already in place bob

Mine will soon go under the knife but thinking of a half softop instead of truck cab. The rear part of the roof will be soft top.

Came across this thread and am curious how Sim's second idea developed. Any updates?? bob

Problem solved :i-m_so_happy: The damn oil sender was playing up. Gave it a good clean, since the new one I got doesn;t fit. Now all fine :D Thanks for the help guys!! bob

Changed oil and filter today, but after 3 minutes on idle from cold the oil light came on. Will change oil pressure switch tomorrow and hope for the best. While I was at it, i connected my laptop to the ECU (Tornado ECU by RPI) via ODBC and noticed that there are no errors. Is it normal not to register any errors when low on oil pressure? tks, bob

Check with agent and VR1 20/50 is out of stock for about a month. Is there a good alternative or shall I change with the remaining BP i have and change to Valvoline when available? bob

OH shi*e..... engine isn't loosing coolant, at least for the short while I left it running. I also noticed that while top hose was warm, expansion tank was still cold. Head gaskets were done a couple of months ago because i had noticed a slight drip of coolant. Will change oil today, and hope for the best. Am using BP Visco 3000 10W 40 http://www.bplubricants.com/en/products/visco-3000-a3b4-10w-40 tks, rob

Guys, need some advice. Problems started last sat, when fan cowling got out of place while offroading, blocked the fan and engine overheated causing the expansion tank to crack. Towed it home, changed expansion tank, filled with coolant, started and let on idle to warm up. Ater a about 5 minutes, oil light started flickering and I switched off. Checked oil level and was fine. Started again and after a couple of minutes, oil light back on. What might be wrong now? tks, rob

I read on another forum that with the extended radius arms, the guy who has them got better steering lock. Could that be true? I imagine u get better articulation because with the same angle before the bush binds, vertical movement of axle is increased because it is fuerther away then before. And might also get the most out of slotted bushes

As title, has anyone modified his fornt radius arms or are there any available on the market? Reason for this is that I want to improve front articulation but not too fond on 1, 3 or 4 link setups. Extended radius arms might improve front articulatiopn without major risks on road. bob

I want to plug in an engine oil pressure gauge, preferably an electric gauge. Where do I put the sender unit? thanks, Bob

Same here. Placed it under the hood near the battery until I find a better place. Was thinking of placing one inside, possibly somewhere in the centre console. Would not place one accessibile from outside. Not really keen for some bugger to switch it on and 'short' the remote plug

Why not add a bowmotor 2 to yor TDS winch. Should improve both line pull and no load speed bob

Same issue with bouncing rear on my Disco, especially when going over bumps at a good speed. Mine's fitted with Terrafirma +2 All terrain shocks. Might change to the Pro Sport version bob

No, it ain't long enough to move it inside the cab