Bowie69

OT SIR?

Sorry for OT BTW, but I think there is an exemption for this on the sports cars, but the way I read the IVA manual was that it had to exit at the rear. If I find it again in the IVA manual I will post up about it.

No wonder people keep breaking stuff if they try and move ~5tons of LR with all wheels spinning. Winch, or even a gentle tug form behind would have taken half the time, a quarter the diesel, and left your driveline intact.

I'd have a word with Richard's chassis, they seem to be able to make whatever you want nowadays.

Agree with 3sheds, I had a side exit, but can remember a few yelps from passers by and since the IVA requires a rear exit, I am doing so and won't be changing it once done. With some though you can make it pretty indestructable off road, even if the original stock exhaust I had before was broken very very quickly

Seems fine for my application, but I am running a V8 and therefore have a smaller filling nozzle... also running a custom fuel tank which happens to have a 50mm inlet. The important bit for me was to have the angle on the filler, a striaght one would have backed up badly. I don't know what size pipework your tank is, but I don't think my RRC stock fuel tank was any bigger than 50mm, may be wrong though...

I use the second one on my bobtail, works fine for me, and has two different sizes of pipe supported.

Lovely Was the cameraman that far back to stop the cable hitting him when it snapped?

Right, sorry, your post wasn't 100% clear on that. At this point I would be checking for continuity in the loom between injector plug and ECU plug. It's obviously been moved about quite a bit during the swap, so something may have bee dislodged.

I thought they had serial numbers as unique identifiers for each injector..... and had to be coded to the ECU...?

Not sure, but to remove the injector you unbolt the fuel rail and pull it out.

As it is only one, swap out ht lead with a known good, as out is wasted spark you can pretty much eliminate the coil packs. Other thing is injector, check connector for damage, remove injector, fit a piece of fuel pipe to it and give it a blow, it should be shut at this point. Next give it 12v across the terminals, and blow again, it should blow clearly through. You could also have a duff plug, even if new. If all the above are ok, then there must be a fault in the loom.

Si, for a smaller gun, try the Makita intermediate rattle gun, really nice bit of kit, and taken a lot of abuse from me and my mate, he's now bought the bigger brother as well http://www.itslondon.co.uk/pd_MAKBTW251Z_BTW251Z_Makita18vLiionImpactWrenchBody.htm It does eventually run out of puff, but it will do most stuff and critically it is small enough to fit where the big one doesn't.

IIRC they are held in with something similar to blue hylomar, as far as running goes, it could cause rough running, but I doubt it would affect things too greatly, unless the loose trumpet was blocking the port....?

Oh, good luck with the plumbing.... heater hoses are completely different and confusing, in the end I junked the plastic crappy thermostat thing, fitted a 3.9 stat where it should be -in the inlet manifold, ran one heater hose across the RH rocker box, and the other round the RH side of the engine bay, with a T in it to connect the header tank in. Bottom hose will get close to steering box (maybe given your very odd vehicle configuration ), use a stock top hose, it will fit fine (or your existing one if you see what I mean....) This has worked for a long time, but I wish it could have been tidier :/

You don't need to disturb the water pump, but if it is an uknown you may want to change it. If the seal land is in good nick I wouldn't worry about the crank seal TBH.

IIRC there's no sump casket, I just used a good quality RTV sealant, and plenty of it The lump in mine is a 1995 P38 unit too.... Exhaust manifold gaskets, use these: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4aa703889b or these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c0e169827 They actually seal unlike the multi-layer tin ones.... Front end: timing cover, water pump gasket, but TBH, I can't think of anything else off the top of my head

Yep ^^^ Plus the air con fans come on anyways once the coolant temp leaving the engine hits 105C -that's the temperature that the switch on the side of the thermostat housing turns them on, regardless of air con switched on or not. Personally I'd leave alone, if you have cooling problems, fix the problems, don't mask the issue by putting more fans in front of the rad.

Why do you want to do this? But yes, investigate the relay connections and hwo to trigger it, and connect a switch to it.

Well today the crimper hasn't turned up yet... but went back and re-inspected the leads, first thing I noticed was the 4-core nature of these Magnecore leads which means fitting them to the crimp is a little different from normal, the reason being there is just not enough room in the crimp for 4 conductors to be bent over, instead Magnecor have a tang inserted into the end of the cut lead: The long end of the tang is pushed into the end of the lead, in between the 4 conductors, and the short one sits on the outside of the outer part of the lead so it makes contact with the metal of the crimp, and give a good path for conduction. Failure to fit this will cause the spark to jump between the HT lead and the crimp causing it to burn through. Note this is just a piece of scrap lead, hence the insulation missing One other point, I saw a mate and he let me have some industrial 'bumper and engine bay dressing' stuff they use when selling cars, and tried this out this morning by disassembling a lead and refitting, it was VERY VERY VERY slippery, and did make putting it back together a lot easier. I have used aerosol back to black silicon stuff before for other jobs, but it dries more than this stuff, which is not in an aerosol, but a 5l tin, it is REALLY sticky, and slippy. If I was doing it again (and I probably will at some point) I will get some more of this for the job. I put it in a little pot and dunked the whole boot in before fitting, slipped the string over the lead and pulled it straight through with no bother at all. Only thing, I have washed and scrubbed my hands about 4 times now with Fairy and a) They still smell of 'new car scent' b) I can barely type as my hands are slipping off the keys -apologies for any typos Another note... 'normal' 7/8mm leads with just one conductor you would trim the outer insulation to reveal just the black inner core, say 15mm or so, and bend this around the end of the lead before fitting and crimping, so basically the same shape as the tang above. Looks something like this: More to come when the crimp arrives...

Where abouts is the secondary temp sender fitted?

Good, now you can go back to the missus and say 'I am going V8 cos some blokes on the internet thought it way cooler'

If it is the same as an RRC, then there is a sort of door seal in that gap, but of course may be different for Disco. I do doubt that the cooling issue is due to this however, first thing I would do is get the coolant checked for exhaust gasses to rule out a head gasket failure, and check thoroughly for air locks, which I believe 300TDIs are renowned for. HTH

A mate has been running Megajolt for just over a year now, very pleased with it, and a very good increase in economy at the same time, due to being able to run two ignition maps. However, as he had a lovely set of Magnecor HT leads (not my choice I assure you) connected to his Dizzy, I reused these and instead of Generation 1 coil packs, I used the later 'normal' terminal coil pack, which you can connect regular HT ends to with no problems, as long as they have internal grips as well as the normal 'cage' on the end of them. A couple had come loose at some point and the result was completely burnt through terminals on the end of the leads from the arcing -I could have just got Magnecor to repair them, but instead after a PM to Nige, he suggested a mate of his had managed to get 10mm Magnecors through his 'Coil Pack Ignition Lead Ends Kit', so thought it worth a try, especially as I have converted 8mm leads before with no problems.... This will be a 2-part post, as I haven't fitted the terminals yet(!), but for starters lets get the boot on the leads Take one old lead, with a possibly burnt through terminal: Cut the end off with a pair of sharp wire cutters, make sure the end of the outer bit in particular is tidy, otherwise it will snag on the way into the boot: Clean the lead throughoughly, at least the first 6 inches, any dirt will make the lead stick in the boot, and any lube with be wasted. For all cleaning and lube I ignored Nige's advice ( ) and went with some bike lube I had kicking around, GT85, and it worked bloody well: Next job is to find some strong twine, very strong in my case due to the thickness of the HT lead... I found some builders lines (for marking out foundations, block work etc) and seemed to do the job well. Tie this in a knot around the HT lead, make sure you use one which is a 'slip' knot, as this allows the loop to self tighten around the lead when you pull on it. I used a two-half-hitches knot and it worked very nicely. Trim some of the excess off, not too much otherwise the knot may pull through and come undone: Feed the end of the twine through the boot from the narrow end : Now the first tricky bit, feeding the lead into the boot, put a bit of lube in the narrow end of the boot, and on the end of the lead, slip the lead into the end of the boot, making sure the outer silicon bit of the lead goes in nicely, and nothing left outside. Only push it in about 5mm (1/4" for old fogies!) as there's not enough lube to go any further and it will just get jammed. Now it is in this far, squirt LOADS of lube from the wide end of the plug lead, and cover the lead for about 6" with lube at the same time, now, as they say, it is time to start pushing. Keep the loop of twine out of the way for the moment, you don't need it yet. Push the lead in with a twisting motion, making sure you don't ruck up the lead outer, which can cause snagging. At the FIRST sign of progress slowing, stop and re-lube from both ends. Once you have done this you should be able to see the end of the lead from the with end of the boot, or at least be an inch into the boot. Now the tricky bit (hence no photo!), getting the lead round the bend; this is where the twine comes in... lube EVERYTHING again, and start pulling -use a rag around your hand to stop it from cutting into your flesh too much. It will take some force to move, especially with 10mm leads, but will go through in the end, pulling the wide end of the boot to straighten the bend as much as possible really helps. Eventually it will look like this: At this point you can trim and fit the terminals (tomorrow's job, once the crimper arrives) and then push/pull it back through the boot, I can't do this yet, so I'll just show off with a completed set of 8 Couple of other points, if it won't go, or the twine breaks, or the knot comes undone or for some other reason you have to start again, don't despair, as the boots have now had a good stretching the next time will be a piece of cake. Keep metal tools away from it, as you will bugger up the lead outer, or the boot, or both. Using this method and some practice I got it down to about 5 minutes per lead, taking my time, making sure I didn't arse it up Will post tomorrow once I have the terminals fitted up Pete.

Blue hylomar works great here....