Bowie69

It's also worth noting that VW do a supercharged and turbocharged 1.4l petrol engine in a Polo/Golf, which is pretty interesting In fact here it is:http://www.gizmag.com/combination-supercharger-and-turbocharger-for-vw-golf-gt/4595/

I remember someone posting about having two turbo charged identical engines, producing same power output. then ran them both up, but with the exhaust of one feeding the other turbo, so you can work out the losses, if that makes sense? Result was the engine with no turbo on it's exhaust (only on it's inlet) was producing 40BHP more than the other one, which IIRC was about a third more than the single turbo'd bike engine.

IIRC there are two types of union on the ABS block itself, and you can muddle them up and therefore get incorrect seating, is that a possibility?

Like to see that work with an auto Correctly used (i.e. as above, pull up from the 6 O'clock position quickly, and keeping your thumbs out of the way) they are pretty safe in all honesty.

S3 FFR trucks had it in the sump, as in my lightweight.

Exactly!

tayna.co.uk , cheap fast and a huge range of manufacturers to choose from.

Already said that, and I agree, I wouldn't bother rebuilding a Rover for power again, Japanese stuff all the way.

No difference in the casing, just one bolt is shorter than the others.

No Ross, not normally, the hot water comes out of the top of the engine, it does on all engines I have ever worked on! The X-eng switch is designed to run in the bottom hose and has lower switching values to compensate, putting it in the top hose would cause the fan to run more often than it needs to.

They are very handy for setting timing etc, when you need tiny movements of the engine, starting mine is a one-handed short sharp half turn and it goes, really quite easy. I imagine a diesel is more difficult , but the important thing is momentum, get that and it should kick over the top and start pretty easily.

Very cool

Could well be right about the efficiency mucking it up, good luck with it

You are correct about the slot options in the BLOS, though I had forgotten about it until you reminded me I assume you have adjusted the BLOS as well? Good PDF on it here: http://www.corrado.com.pl/warsztat/blos/blos_evolution_ml.pdf

Series diesels used to come with one as an option IIRC, I have one on my petrol Lightweight, mainly because my local breakers gave it to me for nothing I can start my Lightweight from cold easily, third kick every time -maybe I should prime the fuel pump first, but it's good exercise for me 200TDI is 19:1 compression ratio, the old series diesel was 23:1, so it should actually be easier to start the 200TDI...?

Holy drivetrain breakage!

You should be able to get it to the right AFR at idle at least, a too small vapouriser would normally only show once on the gas, where gas requirement is maximised. What is the limit of the BLOS? I seem to remember 2 being recommended foranything over a RV8 3.5...?

The AC condesnser is condesnsing gas back into liquid(as I understand it, if not then cooler gas), so from your basic physics you should know that a lot of heat is given out at the point, this heat is then thrust into the engine bay through the radiator somewhat diminishing the performance of the engine radiatior. Extra engine heat will also be generated just by the fact the engine is running the compressor. Think of the AC system as a giant fridge, ever felt the back of a fridge/freezer running full tilt? They get very warm.

I did wonder If you angle the shock forwards, backwards or inwards (outwards? ) then yes the damping effect is reduced, but could easily be allowed for by selecting a heavier duty shock, you can also use a shorter shock as the change in length of the shock for a given axle movement will be less than with it vertical above the axle. So for example you *could* fit the Series military HD shocks at more of an angle, have the same damping rate, and potentially more droop. But as above, what's really the point

They don't need to be, if you use the rear axle->radius arm bolt...?

That's not 'only' with the engine off, they operate when it is running as well, under high coolant temps -I know this because it's what mine used to do. So... it is as simple as above.

Ah, I think Nige knows the same man I do for THL, so ask him

Sounds like you have a wedge to spend then Personally I would go for a second hand 4.6 and refurb & top hat it, keep an eye out for second hand performance (stage 2 or above) heads on ebay, get them refurbed, check the combustion volume and skim for 10:1 compression taking into account which pistons you will be using. Stump puller or similar cam (there are more alternatives now, and with an auto the stump puller is not the best), standard genuine lifters and bolt it all together, using genuine parts where ever possible. Somewhere I have the number/contacts for aplace that will top hat and plateau hone the liners for not a lot of cash, if you want it, drop me a PM and I will dig it out. Be aware you will be spending of the order of £2K by the time you have finished! With the above and MS and a decent exhaust/inlet you'll probably see ~260BHP and 300lbs/ft. I'd personally convert the whole thing to a £400 Lexus V8 on MS, 260BHP, 270lbs/ft stock and bolt on supercharger kits to take it to 400BHP. I do understand you wish to retain some sense of originality, so I won't say it

How much power do you want?

Today..... the crimper arrived, very simple device: The main body is hard plastic, but there is a metal liner to the hard working part, for £10 is was worth a punt, and it did help create some much nicer crimps than I would have been able to with a pair of pliers and a hammer.... here it is in place in the vice -not that you need much force to create the crimp of course. So... let's crimp As I am doing the uber-fat magnecor leads at the moment, after a failed attempt at a crimp, I decided it would be better if I removed the first 10mm of the outer layer of silicon of the lead before crimping. This outer layer is predominantly a waterproofing layer from what I can see, and has very little structural integrity, as it tears just by looking at it -unlike 'normal' leads which have a much firmer outer sheath. So I trimmed it back like this: I removed some fine fibrous woven stuff from the end as well, cuts easily with scissors. Then inserted the tang, this needs to go in the centre of the lead as discussed above, but also needs to make contact with the terminal, so when inserting the tang, put it in the 'top' of the lead. This means that once you have crimped it all up and bent the terminal 90 degrees it should pull through without having to twist the HT lead in the boot. Of course if you are using regular HT leads do as described in my previous post The terminal with tang: Next, insert the terminal into the crimper, pretty obvious which way round it needs to go: Then, as it needs 3 hands, I didn't get a photo, but push the lead into the terminal with the tang(or inner core of HT lead) in the bottom of the crimp and gently tighten the vice. First time I did it the terminal kicked over a bit in the crimper and gave a lopsided crimp, and it continued to do this on subsequent crimps to a greater or less degree, I found the best way in the end was to crimp it and allow the terminal to slip a bit, then pull it out, and twist the HT lead so that when you re-crimp it does the other half. I suspect the problem with the crimper is the terminals are not quite the right design for it, but it has made some very decent crimps, far better than pliers and a hammer!: The terminal has made a VERY good physical connection, so I was confident enough to pull on it quite hard without it coming apart Next thing to do was push the terminals back through the boots, easier said than done though as most of the lube (now last used ~5 days ago...) had dried up. Easiest way to get more in was like this: That's a watchmakers posidrive screwdriver, posidrive to avoid snagging the boots. Dip the screwdrive in the lube and wiggle it in to the boot, to the sort of depth show, then dribble more lube into the gaps made by the screwdriver either side, wiggle it about until you can freely move the whole of the screwdriver around the circumference of the lead, then do it from the other end as well -though clearly you won't need to go as deep. Next thing to do is bend the terminal -no picture of it on a lead as too many hands required, but using a pair of point pliers, bend the terminal to almost 90 degrees at this point here: If you've lubed it all up properly (including the terminal) and the crimp is strong enough, pull the lead back through the boot until the terminal sits in the right place, fit the clippy-hood thing (really obvious how this needs to go, then put them all on the desk for posing: Job done Then for more aesthetic appeal, clip them to a coil pack Would I buy the crimper again....? Well, it has done a good job for me on this, but I doubt it would last me more than say 10 sets of leads, but for only £12 delivered I am not going to complain! If I could foresee me doing 10 sets I would have bought the 'proper' one, but for a DIY/budget crimper it has done very well, so yes, very pleased I got one in this case Will this be my first thread in the Tech Archive....?