Bowie69

Mine pushes away from the engine

Thanks Steve, that's almost certainly what I will need very shortly, as I have dropped a 4.0 GEMS engine into my RRC and just sorting out the final bits like the above, like you I have removed the Air con compressor as I have no need for it. It seems that's a GATES part number, LR OE part number is : PQS101520 Thanks again

Which pin of the switch is live? A circuit might be handy to explain WTF you mean

Yes, continuous seam welded is the only acceptable repair in this situation -you shoul dbe able to do this quite easily though, just run around the inside of the hole?

Try RS/Farnell/CPC, I *know* you can get them from there for very few pennies.

The corner tanks do come up in breakers and on Ebay from time to time, I was looking at one point and found a few without problems, and they were going for reasonable money ~£50 as opposed to £300! I guess you need the boot space? Otherwise a regular internal torpedo tank mounted behind the back seats works well.

Most sensible suggestion so far

It won't help your oil life or lubrication properties that's for sure, they are designed to run a certain temp, I wouldn't mess with it TBH.

You guys rock! Many many thanks, just the job

As above, looking for a part number (if one exists) for the 4 bolts that hold the ring gear, flex plate, mounting boss etc to the rear of the crank -I really need to know if they are anything special, or rather just standard 8.8 rated M10x1.5s that I can pick up locally... Many thanks

They almost look like they have a spot of surface rust, as Western says a bit of lapping will probably save them.

Sounds lovely.... I guess there isn't much of an exhaust system on that...? Took me a good few minutes to read the following however, so I offer a translation:

I think, the coil runs at 6V when in normal running mode, and 12V when starting to give it a boost, so that is probably normal if you are measuring it with just the ignition on. Have you tested for a spark directly from the coil? I'd try to find a second hand coil and ignition amp (on side of dizzy) and swap them out one by one to see what is causing the problem.

Can't remember the details, but the caliper mountings are different sizes when it comes to later Rangie axles -Bishbosh can confirm I am sure...

Oh I don't know, I have my moments

Doesn't solve the problem with the forum search, but try this: http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=opera&rls=en&hs=Y3i&q=site%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fforums.lr4x4.com%2F+dash+removal&btnG=Search&meta=&aq=f&oq= Search using google with this as the search string: site:http://forums.lr4x4.com/ dash removal

Had a Britpart brake master cylinder fail on me whilst bleeding the brakes -needless to say they got a very cross phone call from me... I wouldn't use them for anything safety critical full stop. (Not wishing to turn it into yet another Britpart bashing thread, but this has special significance I think...)

3 months, yes I would expect them to be dead.

This was done a while back, and a thread posted on here during development of an app to convert the wetroads DBF to lots of different formats: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19252&st=0 Use the links on the second page for download, hopefully they still work

Can you not just fit it afterwards? I suppose, you could ring your local office for advice

If it's the same as teh Rover 45/25 clock, try pulling it out the dash, disconnecting for 10 minutes and reconnecting, worked for my brothers 25 many times...

Download 'Virtual CloneDrive', then mount the image. You could burn it to CD using Nero or similar, but what's the point

TBH, they are a bit of pain to get out, and you'd be lucky (read very lucky) to find one a) not already rotten, and b) Removed in one piece and not bent, and in which case the truck you are looking at would probably not be for breaking. As far as I know, the floor panels are not available for the later RRC, so I went and found a nice ali one from an earlier Rangie as per the write up above, and slotted that in instead -does the job nicely You could make your own hatch for the fuel pump, but in all honesty I haven't, as dropping the tank is not a huge job, and that's how all the old ones were, so why should it be a problem now? The seat belt holes will need re-drilling in the correct place, but by using the 1991 seat belt mounts it is not a problem having a corrugated floor at all, they have enough of an upstand to clear the surrounding corrugations. I understand this may not be the way you wish to do it, if going for originality, but IMHO it is a long lasting method of repair. Oh, and don't forget to order a new rear body cross member at the same time!

My advice would be a Southdown close fitting bumper and relocate your autobox oil cooler (if you have one). That is, of course, if it will fit inside the chassis rails, nothing like a tape measure to sort that one out

I would measure how wide the winch you are getting is before committing either way, a few of the higher powered winches won't even fit between the rails, leaving your options somewhat limited!