Bowie69

Dingocroft for genuine leads and other ignition bits, about £28 for a set of leads last time I bought them.

With great difficulty now.... I tried about 3 months ago at my local store, you either need: Motor Trade Role Qualifying documents Qualified Technician City & Guilds in Motor Mechanics Certificate or garage payslips Self–employed Mechanic High volume of local motor factor invoices from last 3 months Mobile Mechanic City & Guilds in Motor Mechanics certificate or high volume of local motor factor invoices from last 3 months Small Independent Garage Mechanic Recognised payslips for employee, high volume of local motor factor invoices from last 3 months or City & Guilds in Motor Mechanics Certificate High Volume Parts Buyer (or frequent user of car parts) High volume of local motor factor invoices from last 3 months ^^ From Halfords webby HOWEVER, when asking in-store they said they had 'tightened up' on the application process, and the last one was no longer an option.... And no they didn't accept my engineering degree as a C&G qualification

I'd be checking your base idle and cleaning out the stepper motor extra air valve on the back of the plenum, check the timing manually on the pulley with a timing light and then think about tinkering with the idle advance, could be a mix of all the above. Are you sure the diode arrangement from the coil packs are feeding the ECU properly?

Mega*JOLT* Fridge, tsk tsk

Safety Devices list a few bolt-in cages, not sure they meet with your desired spec, but probably worth a look. Safety Devices 90 roll cage brochure. You don't say what vehicle it is, so I have assumed

Agreed, SUs are one of the best design of carbs about (only IMHO ), sure EFI is better, but a well setup pair of SUs are pretty damn good.

Pretty sure on the SU's you will find that it operates a lever on the bottom of the carb, which pulls the bit where the needle in the SU sits down, to richen the mixture, as well as operating the throttle spindle. This is how it was the last time I worked on carbs, but it was on a Morris 1000 so it might have changed a bit since then -never owned/played with a carbed V8...

Lucky fella, ETC1738E is the part number (I think that's what is says anyways....) Ralph will be able to tell you what it means, but as a 'service exchange unit' it could be a new engine, rather than a recon, which is even better

Oh... well I suppose I could make an appearance this year

As you say, water pump or radiator, leaning towards the latter, as I assume you checked the water pump when you had it apart...? Feel the radiator when it is hot(carefully!), if the bottom is still cold then you probably have a sludged-up radiator.

Start with a thorough looksie to check everything is setup as per book, strip and reassemble the carbs and go from there, delving into the guts of an engine cos you have no power is a bit reactionary IMHO. As far as the lifters go, YES, you need to replace them, and on first starting you need to follow the bedding in procedure TO THE LETTER, otherwise you will scrap the cam and lifters within a few thousand miles (if not less).

Yes, a 3.9 cam will fit, and give a mild power/torque boost Standard 3.9 cams are widely available -just google for it

Hotwire : 155mm

Careful, you don't need diff lock in when you have box axles connected -this is a sure way to break stuff -not correcting you Ralph, just read and thought 'that could be taken out of context with devastating consequences'. BPM, with both axles attached you only use diff lock when you need it, i.e. when driving over something more than just a flat grassy field. On tarmac *never* engage difflock, handling will suffer and you'll break something.

Exactly as above, IIRC they are 10 gallon tanks, though the Dutch variants had quite a few differences, who knows what they specified... When switching the tap over from one tank to the other the fuel gauge then read only from the tank selected, there are a couple of switches built in to it

Pretty typical in my experience... Bit like Britpart, if it moves, needs to seal or requires precision, avoid them.

Hmm, pinion bearing/nut loose? Though I suspect you wold have noticed that, as you've changed the props...

OMG..... I bet the only reason you go to work is to plan stuff to do to the 90 Task lists are for the people with a realistic attitude to just how long jobs on a LR will take Hadn't realised you sold the RRC axle, or that you'd spent so much on the 90 axle -though given the state of it, it was warranted... Will be visiting my 'Messenger' in an hour or so

Not trying to screw your plans up, but have you thought more about getting your RRC axle underneath it? I know there were some complications (caliper bolt holes was it?) but would it make more sense to stick the reinforced diff pan to that (younger, and probably better nick), and then get everything else to fit -you could do this more at your leisure, and then just bolt it all in place... I'm probably saying what you have already considered, but thought it worth a mention anyways

Ah... but you haven't tried his Jaffa Cakes and Pizza

I'm sure I have seen this somewhere, just can't find it on google atm...

Halfshaft splines? Worn stub axle? Loose brake caliper? That's the only three other bits I can think of... (was two, then I thought some more ) Do either of the wheels rock at all when they are off the ground?

Could be about on Sunday... will confirm tomorrow

Bampton, east Devon

In the RRC LSE there was a slightly uprated version of the regular classic box, to go with the 4.2 engine -could be an option? There are plenty being broken nowadays....