Huh?
You download the Zipped up DBF from wetroads, unzip it to somewhere handy, like your desktop, then use the 'wetroadsconvertor.exe' to convert it into any format you like....
Like so:
I may not have understood your question quite right, I am 3 strong German beers down and counting......
HTH,
Bowie.
I still think it is worth checking to see you have a spark from coil lead, it will at least confirm that side of it is still alive -otherwise new plugs might not be needed.......... and its a 5 minute check.
.... http://www.wessexoff-road.co.uk/ ?
I can't get their website up at the moment, I guess they are still about?
Would like to go down there sometime this month of there's a pay and play, just no way to contact them....
Anyone a regular there?
Thanks,
Bowie.
With the TomTom output fully working now, here it is!
WetRoads Converter (Right-click and 'Save As...' if you have problems).
You need to download the DBF from WetRoads from the 'GIS' page, the link is underneath the main map on the right.
Many thanks to Steve for this really handy little app, have fun peeps, I know I will be
Bowie.
Symptom = no spark, even out of the engine... I am going from first principles here, water in the fuel might be a side issue, or a non-existant one if it was a small amount.
Take the coil lead off the distributor, and hold it close to the engine with a pair of insulated pliers -if it sparks then look further down the road, rotor arm, cap, and then plugs.
I'd be suprised if one wetting of the plugs is still affecting it tbh -you sure the headgasket hasn't gone?
Nice work! I'd be happy to test the Memory Map file, and if you need a host for it, just ask -assuming it's not too big
Can you not FTP it up to the http://vamp.idlers.org/~jaffa/ site?
All tests like this are well detailed in the Haynes, which I have heard, is a lift from the actual workshop manual, I ran through everything over the weekend, except the fuel pressure... took me about an hour.
weldequip (trades through the phone and Ebay) does the Clarke 150TE (new version) for £219 delivered, I got one from him and no complaints whatsoever from me!
He also frequents www.mig-welding.co.uk
No-one, was just browsing your website and spotted it! I know exactly where Wellington is, I'm onyl about 30 mins away, just had never spotted it before
Quarterly would be great, although if numbers got too much, 6 a year maybe?
Classes are good, but I wouldn't want to comment on what is/isn't allowed
I'd expect the tyre size is down to rolling diameter, not width, and as 265/75 is SLIGHTLY smaller than 235/85 I reckon you will be OK, but let the JST confirm
The Salisbury axle will eman your rear prop will be shorter, but I can't tell you by how much atm!
I am sure someone has done this before and can get a tape measure out
Weird.... it's actually a little annoying, when you close lots of programs, with the X and end up on 'Today', it the pops up with the task mangler, if you click once too many times......
You will still wear your tyres out very fast on the front, with no diff action between them....
Have a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
You can see clearly that the inside wheel will have to turn more slowly than the outside when going round a corner. This is fine off road as the wheel slip easily on the surface, but on hte hard stuff you will at best wear your tyres, at worst have a vehicle that won't go round corners or skip across the road when you do.
I would definately not recommend it for on-road use.
Bowie.