Bowie69

Are the splines showing? There are 3/4 different props (probably more tbh!) for the 'standard' RRC front prop.... early, late, late with viscous coupling, and the latest with viscous coupling and cats. Yours is a late or early one? The differnce in prop length is normally down to a combination of gearbox and transfer case length -the diff nose doesn't change.

Try CIS as well, they have a similar approach to the NFU, person to person policy discussion, not just a robot linked up to a computer that says 'no'

I should really read what I type... I meant series III front on a 90/Defender

I might put a defender front on an 88" series III... maybe that will be retro enough

Yep, loved my first outing with 4x4Adventures..... lotsa lovely peeps, and a cracking course down in Wellington -learnt more than I ever knew in one day down there Will definately be going back.

I had that problem..... took a lot of wiggling to get it in, and rolling car back and forwards a bit etc, but it did drop in eventually without a fuss.

Yep, mine have 'TUBELESS' cast into the rim, as FF says

Whoops, sorry, yes, you are 100% right, got myself a bit mixed up there.... :sigh: Been ill recently, think it has affected my brain cells.

Ah well I get both belts and the pickup causing the issue.... Well I did when my revcounter worked -flipping thing is darting all over the place from just BEFORE going to Wellington @ JST's DRD. (Just making sure you don't think I am blaming you James )

It's more likely either the power steering belt or alternator belt (think this is how a lot are done) is slipping, unless you are going through fords which are just too deep for the poor old V8..... If not, you could put a splash guard in front of the alternator, and see if that helps, a bit of bent tin would do fine. Bowie.

To be honest, if you have a manual, just reading it will mean you understand what your mate says about a certain bit.... would help I suspect Like others here are saying, it could well just be the linkage, rather than the actual box going AWOL, so rather than being expensive, I think your mate just needs to know where things are supposed to be, and what is missing. I don't *need* a manual for most mechanical work, but when you need torque settings and are trying to piece something back together which has fallen apart, sometimes the odd picture or exploded diagram solves your problem in minutes rather than hours. Every car I have ever owned, I have bought a Haynes for, or been given one, or have sourced a pukka original workshop manual, either on CD or book form..... more to learn about how different manufacturers do different things -it might fill my brain with SOME worthless information, but a lot of it *IS* useful, and can help at flash diagnosing a fault should one occur...... Get a manual, you know it makes sense Bowie. P.s. don't EVER drive it like that again, 2 small wheels, 2 large, if you transfer box isn't already broken, it will be pretty soon! as well as you UJ's, Diffs etc.... get it working right first, then start bolting the goodies onto it.

Just as an aside, a '12V' car battery should read around 13.2V, *not* 12V when "charged and OK". 12.4V means one or more of the cells are starting to die, and a quick re-charge can boost it, but won't cure it.

A landy owner with no workshop manual? You have either been doing it way too long and don't need one, or you need one

Well hopefully driving it with prop off for a while will give an indicator as to whether it is transfer box or not... I get a BIT of steering wobble, but it is almost like that is secondary to the actual noise...

Yep, road speed relative, drumming, coming from the front (left.. I think), and through the steering wheel a bit, only really shows itself when accelerating, and gets worse when turning right, but not left... oh, and only between 25mph and... 50mph ish.... over 50 and it's quiet. Will add handbrake to list to check, but probably low-ish on priority.... as I am 90% sure it's a nose from the front axle. Thanks for the suggestions though

You may find the channel under the glass is rusted to bits..... in which case it can collapse onto the nylon lugs and make it tight to move.... Other thing that can happen in the channels down the side of the glass rust, and expand, hence making the rubber grip the glass.... Before you dismantle it all, clean out the window channels and spray them with silicon spray (dashboard cleaner works well -the cheap stuff), that should help a lot HTH, Bowie.

Nope... I have a Rangie -you should know, you pulled me out the mire enough @ Wellington No tyre scrubbing here either, just confusion....

Viscous coupling........ Only true way out of difflock is prop off, prop on I guess... Probably only my list of things to do tonight now....

You know James..... I have had the same symptoms (only happening when steering right above 25mph on the gas) since I did the DRD at Wellington.... maybe there is just something about that site? or.... you sneakily swapped axles while I wasn't looking...... as the date is about right according to your post Done the same as you so far, CVs, wheel bearings and swivels all check out OK, I am beginning to think it is diff, will probably pop it out over the weekend... prop off to test first I guess though.... though that of course doesn't rule diff out completely! *sigh* I guess you haven't had it return then?

Had to google to find out what you meant exactly, first link was this : http://www.disgruntledgoat.com/content/veh...kar/ZF4HP22.php Looked handy

I would love to, but I don't think I have the experience for it

20w50 all the way for me, too light and you will get hesitation, and too heavy you will get a slow throttle response

A classic shop!

Edited the '3_90s' pic for contrast and exposure *edit* It's not completely standard, it has a 2" lift..... otherwise the tyres rub but I spose that just means I have 2 dislocated springs at the end of the event.......

Ah thats just a little bump...... hardly noticeable