Bowie69

My cheque/form not arrived yet James?

42" x 30" x 53" roughly, you can do the maths if you want it in metric It is higher than 30£, but this allows for the roof sloping down at the back.

Only because I knew about those seals being... well.. pants.... does sound like your problem though.

Is there oil in the transfer case?

Make : Clarke Model : 151TE (turbo) How Long have you had it / How old is it : 3 months Typical Current Price : £220 Maximum Welding Current (AMPS) : 150A Output at 60% Duty Cycle : 100A? Not sure tbh Welding Wire range in mm : 0.6, 0.8 and they sent me a 1.0mm tip as well, but I think it would need a conversion to the feed Small Large or BOTH re Wire Spools : 0.5KG and 5KG Euro Torch (Yes / No ) : No Argosheild Bottle - max Size that will fit : Hobby gas or make your own cradle Weight : 25KG? Maybe more, it is a lump to move round, hence why it has wheels..... I don't like lifting it to move it! Thats with gas and 5KG wire. What is the most typical things you weld with it - thicknesses etc : 2mm -> 5mm Other standard Features : wire feed control, current control, good regulator..... no trick things like stitch etc Good Points : Good steady wire feed compared my old sealey -biggest improvement for me, regulator no longer empties a bottle of gas over night if I leave it connected low minimum current setting for thin stuff. Bad Points : Needing a 15A wall socket to run it (I know you CAN run it from a 13A plug, just you shouldn't!) On a scale of 1 to 10 1 being very unhappy with it, and 10 being "Its perfect for me" rate it : 9 -I didn't want to spend toooo much, yet it will munch through 5mm steel fine when on CO2/Argon mix http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...diy-mig-welders I got mine from guy called 'Weldequip' on the 'migwelders forum' -very helpful, fast and keen prices. (cheaper than Machine Mart.....) He also sells on ebay occasionally.

James, My cheque got delayed, I gace it to someone else to post only to be told yesterday they 'forgot' to do it until Sunday, but rest assured it is on it's way

Lot of people find the 3-leaf way too hard for the soft tops/truck cabs -there just isn't enough weight to get them to spring properly.

It may sound a bit of a bodge, but I fixed rough running by smearing the big o-ring in the middle of the card with a bit of silicone sealant and re-assembled, it hasn't packed up yet...

Cheque is in the post James!

Can recommend the Halfords professional socket sets -had mine.... 8 years ish now... ratchet still works well, and haven't bent, broken, or lost anything yet! No I lie, one of the clips has broken on the case Other than that, very impressed tbh...... Bowie.

There are two different gears that fit to the end of a V8 dizzy -I don't know the details etc, but I do know you can push the roll pin out that holds the gear on and swap it over with your old one. I hope you have your old one still!

That's a good result... as 2.2m is easily high emough for most LRs... right? Well done peeps!

The loom will mostly unplug, except maybe at the tank and the switch under the dash -other than that, label everything as you unplug it, and only do if you need to! I recently removed one and I got the whole loom off in one piece As has been said, the mixer and vaporiser is probably worth the £180 alone, plus the tanks, plus the electrics, plus everthing else..... you can't lose. And Rangies are getting £100 down the scrapper atm

Yep, my original oil pump had an end like yours Les, the Britpart ones had a longer section which was splined, with about half the spline missing as opposed to the whole spline in your case

Yep, totally normal If you are thinking of replacing the pump, do NOT get a Britpart one..... I have had *2* faulty ones from them -they don't look bad until you start it and spend weeks trying to work out wtf that horrible grinding/screeching noise is coming from your sump/dizzy area. BTDT if you hadn't guessed.... Bowie.

On the BW box, they go to the same place -just to the right of the plenum on the bulkhead under the bonnet, there's three, one for axle, one transfer box, one for autobox. They look like walking sticks are their tops are turned over The rear axle breather goes along the a-frame, and onto the chassis from there -not sure where it ends up -bit dark and cold to go checking atm.....

For testing purposes you could just disconnect it, and block the two pipes on the plenum....

That's your engine breather..... the T joint sounds right, but if it is leaking it will cause poor running.

Excellent! Sounds like the way forward Thanks!

Did you use the standard front bumber mounts? (It looks like it from the pics) Are they strong enough for you to use a hilift on, or did you do some other bracing? Thanks, Bowie.

This is bizarre..... today I ordered 2 6ft lengths of 88mm x 3.2mm tubing specifically for front and rear bumpers for my Rangie...... nice timing Stuntman

Updated: WetRoads Converter (Right-click and 'Save As...' if you have problems). With your host Steve, I had to go to: http://www.def90.infernohost.net/lr4x4/ Then download from the link to make it work, your hyperlink in your last post gave me a 404 for some reason. Bowie.

Mail sent

You don't need to open the DBF file, you open the DBF file with the converter... if you see what I mean. And Vista is no problem, I tested it on both.

gut reaction was a siezed clutch release fork...... I reckon Bill has hit the nail on the head.