Mr Noisy

yes sorry antoine, this is now complicated!! you should buy a basic timing light and try it, it should be fine for your engine!

Hi bowie, my timing is correct, in fact i didnt have to adjust the trim angle at all because we had got the trigger wheel bang on, but when i checked this on second startup it said 12 degrees on the laptop and 24 on the timing light. i **** myself until i realised that wasted spark was confusing my timing light, perhaps because it is a snap-on unit. the engine timing is correct but the timing light reads it as double, so basically i set my light to 24 degrees and the timing marks on the crank pulley show TDC, then i know im running 12 degrees actual advance.

yes so it seems that a dialback timing light will give this problem, whereas basic timing lights wont!

lifted from canems website: Note that strobe lights can interfere with the ECU power supply. Therefore, always use an external power supply for the timing light. Furthermore, because the ECU uses a wasted spark ignition system, some advanced strobe lights can be fooled into thinking the engine is running at double speed. If in doubt, either use a basic strobe light with no advance/retard knob or else set the advance/retard knob to zero degrees.

hmmm. well, for whatever reason, my timing light reads double the advance. this is well documented in my thread, and it was a while before i figured it out, after i had changed my trousers a few times i came to the conclusion that because it is wasted spark it is firing twice as much, so it works out that it is twice as advanced. i admit i am not 100% sure the maths is correct here, but it seems like a pretty decent explanation to an otherwise unexplainable situation, because the system is definitely wired correctly!!

To read correct value with traditional light just divide value by 2. For example, 20 degrees on traditional light is actual 10 degrees on engine

More banter:

More banter:

Good lad! You'll be very pleased with that purchase! I had a read through the obstruction book, a very handy addition to the product range!

Well I went to bed around 3.15 after my gig last night and now I'm up feeling worse for wear but nevertheless determined!!

****ttttt I don't know how you have the patience!!

What timing is your laptop saying? Rember with this system using timing gun/strobe light the indicated figure is double actual timing because we are using wasted (double) spark system...

Bloody ridiculous isn't it mark!

Ooooo!

Djing Friday night, work Saturday, djing Saturday night! Can I drag myself out of bed to make the 4x4 show on Sunday?!?!

Lovely, thanks!

How interesting, we were just discussing fitting D2 front axle to D1 on LZ! And then I stumbled across your thread I notice you clearly have removed the D2 mounts and welded on D1 type, at risk of a stupid question was this completely necessary?? For instance, is the bolt spacing hugely out or are the mounts not wide enough etc? Or is it the chassis/radius arm width/position that is the problem? I've recently had broken swivel ball trouble and we were just discussing upgrading to the stronger axle

I've broken two so far, but I think they're all the same now anyway!

Megasquirt really works! :D Not a single misfire in a very deep pond yesterday at Parkwood!

Gearbox fixed, front layshaft bearing had badly pitted! ANYWAY All hail petrol engined Land Rovers!!

They do seem to get through them though. Interesting to see now I'm on MS but previous I used to out as set in every 6 months to keep the thing happy else it would misfire badly when wet. Currently got a TVR Griffith 400 in stock, 92 precat and I notice the plugs fitted to that (can't remember the number) were quite cold, could hardly see the gubbins because they were deep inside the threads!

I'm not under the impression it's related BUT the fact that the engine now makes good power has encouraged me to use it in much larger amounts of anger, so maybe it is!!!

Yes this is of course an option, im confident the manifold is ok its just the end seals i worry about! Anyway, as usual this task has been shelved for the moment becuase my gearbox is now buggered. Must be all the extra power

Generally sounding a bit more promising then! Ok so hoping for the best that no water finds its way under the valley gasket, it's basically lower the car down the slip with the engine cold and off, and then start it under water. Nice little video

Well there is that to it also!!