Mr Noisy

Clean fresh water only! And the idea is to have the car on a slipway so the engine can go under whilst the rest stays fairly dry! When my alternator packs up I remove it and put it in a bucket of water to remove the mud inside and get it working again so im not too bothered about that, the starter can also handle submersion as it simply drains. I am not admitting defeat but let's just say I'm not rushing it, nor is it high priority but one day I will have to explore! Cheers

No worries dude, my pleasure. Cheers

Hi mate Pretty simple really. At the relay board there are 4 connectors the injectors with +ve and 2 connectors each for bank 1 and bank 2 negative. I have made a slight change and used 2 of the injector +VE to supply the EDIS +VE and then connected 2 injector +VE wires to each of the 2 injector +VE connectors on the relay board. So basically 4 wires into 2 sockets leaving the other two spare for a nice healthy supply for the EDIS +VE. The far end of the relay board connector strip has the 4 injector -VE connectors, 2 for each bank. So basically, I have 8 wires running from relay board to engine, 4 +VE, 2 -VE bank 1, 2 -VE bank 2. When the wires get to the engine, they are spilt accordingly so there are 2 +VE and 2 -VE each side. I ran these down the side of the fuel rail and snipped them to length to fit the middle two injectors. You see, you have 2 +VE and 2 -VE each side so that's enough to feed 2 injectors. All you have to do then once you're sure and you cut them to length for the middle injectors is to piggyback from those middle injectors to the front injector from the front-middle and to the rear from the rear-middle, nice and simple just wire them in parallel. Study my pics again you should be able to work it out, if you're still stuck I can explain if you let me know what's up!!

Some pics on my thread also of injectors and relay board

Well! Mines mounted in the engine bay, I figured seeing as ford designed it for engine bay and it wanted a heatsink and it saves running coil wiring with sensor wiring I would screw it to the inner wing. But I guess it really doesn't matter I used shielded for VR and for SAW/PIP

Hi BBC yep the mushroom filter is removed, and there is a pipe leading to the snorkel top that replaces it Did have some misfire/tracking on the coils the other week when the engine was coated and inch thick in wet gloopy mud, we were bogging through a mud run and it started misfiring, could see the tracking between leads on two caps, squirting it with clean water cured the miss! Can get that igntion sealer spray which might be an idea I already have the 8mm spiral wound leads that Nige supplies which do seem decent quality IMO! Cheers

Thanks for the advice Zim, the valley gasket worries me mostly I think. Thankyou for the advice, am taking it all into the decision to proceed or not. Regards, Sam

The only point in doing it is to get a video!! Then Nige can give me free stuff in return for putting it on his website!

Hi guys. Yes, will make sure the snorkel can stall the engine and hold vacuum when the opening is blocked. It is the standard 3.5 EFi airbox but I have sealed up the drainage gland. Don't worry about handbrake, it will be connected to another car at all times!! Breathers are now fed from the breather system so that's ok. The heater is a custom unit that doesn't take a feed from the outside, and the bulkhead hole is sealed up. Also there is no kenlowe anymore, just the viscous, which I will remove. PAS steering reservoir is now sorted Yes, good point, brake and clutch I will check for vent holes. Headlights, don't care. Oil cap is all good. Axle and boxes have extended breathers and axles are known good/regularly submerged. Frankly, yes, it is madness, that's what my dad said. But I'm like that, up for it if I think it's doable, I it turns out a bad idea evidently I missed something and that's my fault for being incompetent. If oil or water doesn't leak out, water shouldn't get in. There no electrics under the bonnet that don't get regularly soaked/jetwashed anyway, so I actually think it's not far off doable!

Fridge, I'm with you all the way on that, but as it happens the Wideband instructions told me to keep all wires together, so I did Had it not been for that, I would have earthed the lambda heater away from the ECU! It does seem to work ok though tbh! Cheers

You should come up Norf! Will it be at the Donny show? I'm not sure if I'm busy that weekend now!

I earth EDIS direct to battery earth, use thick cable. EDIS is good to place close next to battery. I earth both lambda earth to ECU and works ok. This is because Wideband lambda instructions said to keep all earths together.

Tee hee It's all in aid of the 'look how good Megasquirt is' campaign but tbh I won't be happy after spending 1200 quid until I have an v8 that runs underwater!! It is mad BUT SENSIBLY SPEAKING can anyone think of anything that needs waterproofing? Or where this could go wrong? Because I think it should actually work...!

Couple of jobs for tonight: New temp sender for my temp gauge. I noticed last night driving around that the temp appears to have increased on my gauge. Top hose was easy to hold when I got to work so engine is definitely not hot. Easiest option is to replace the sender first!! Has been fitted a few years in fairness... AND Here's a thingamajig to fit a breather to my PAS Reservoir. The standard vent hole is just less than 6mm, so I will drill it out to 6mm and then push the stainless 6mm stem in with some glue if necessary, then I can connect a breather pipe. This will complete the waterproofing of my engine bay. My plan is to submerge the front end of the car at a slipway on a fresh water lake and see if it will carry on running, stood still, underwater. Probably not a good idea I know!!

Hi TomI've had a dig about online but can't find any info. Will have to look at the car, hopefully I'll remember!! Was bought from Lockwell Electrics by the way, they keep them in stock. Cheers

Welcome mike You will not regret it, MS has transformed my land rover!!!

Hi Antoine Not quite understand what you ask! Is this what you are looking for? Also for the air temperature sensor, the sensor needs to be away from engine heat, so on the air filter box or in the air inlet pipe, not on the plenum or butterfly. Hope that helps

I had no problem soldering the standard Nige lambda sensor wires, just cut the crimps off any extended the wires up to the bulkhead where they are terminated with a Superseal plug so i can swap between Wideband and narrowband. Soldering is kinda necessary, but its not difficult. THE ABSOLUTE KEY is to use good solder. Draper Regular solder for instance is useless, I can't solder with it, whereas Draper Expert is lovely stuff. Best of luck

I am using LC1 because it seemed the most popular and the cheapest option too probably. Paid £137 second hand off eBay i think with a digital gauge also. It works just fine for me, the signal earth and heater earth are earthed to the ECU board as instructed by Innovate. Regards your carb, I think it will take some time to do because isn't carb tuning usually more seat of pants?? Anyway good luck with it, I haven't tried the datalog facility on innovate software but does/can it take any more engine inputs? Rpm etc?

Hmmm, having some posting difficulty last night, hence the repeat posts! Anyway Got some of this done over the last few days, the MS was awesome. We were up North Yorkshire and it was SO wet, every puddle was huge, every bog was insane, and I battled on through just like a diesel. I also noticed that i now have huge amounts more low end torque because I can now keep up with the diesels when driving the road section in between lanes. Hell, it's actually quicker than a 300tdi 90 now in all aspects, as it bloody should be!! Did get a misfire at one point, we hit some serious bloody bogs, took around 3 hours to cover 500 yards and I noticed a miss, turns out it was arcing at the coil pack around the NSR connector. Checked inside it and it was clean and dry, so not sure where it was tracking but I could see the spark! Washed it down with a squirty bottle and it was fine again, must have been quite salty perhaps Anyway, streets ahead from before, an utter success

thankyou antoine, best of luck, you will always find help here

Merry Christmas to all my new-found Megasquirt pals! Best Wishes and thankyou all for your help and guidance with the best mod I have ever made to my car!! Cheers!!

I know, you were exactly right in your instructions, but it confuzzled me so I thought best option here for a noob is to pay the man and get the product, plus it could be used as demonstration for the thread!

Regards off road pics, yeah urm, the off road picture novelty has kind of worn off, don't tend to take shots anymore but just imagine an abused disco in a hellishly muddy site

Yeah so lets break it down: 33.50 on eBay. 2.00 ish to post. 3.35 to eBay. 1.34 to PayPal Components and hardware £10 (remember the Superseal connnector!) Sticker 50p Bit of cable and heatshrink 50p Approx profit 15 quid?!