Mr Noisy

Frankly I wasn't aware the ecu was actually conscious to the fact of what rpm the engine was actually doing, I thought it just bank fired alternately when it got the green light from the coil.

I mean I assume you have a spark and you have some fuel, both of which are ending up in the correct cylinders at the correct time? If so, it'll run

Yep, cam won't know how many are firing, it just needs running up! Regular start and stop will wear the lobes off quickly, the loading on the cam is at its highest at idle.

Amazing

But yeah they only recently started using swear filter on LZ but even then is less encroaching than on here. I have to swear accordingly on LZ but on here I just type what I ****ing want!

Hi rob... Typical

Yeah fancy timing & advance guns will end up doubling your result, shocked me at first but all you have to do I halve what the gun says!

So Here an update: After a run out yesterday up the M62 and back, I was yet again astounded at how well the old girl is running after the transfer box change. Performance wise, it's delightful to drive, cruises at 65/70 in near silence, is very happy at 75ish but just cracks 3000rpm so makes a lovely PARRRRRRRRRM sound as you cruise past lesser vehicles, and will do 100mph if you have enough road! All these things are previously unknown quantities to me! Regards mpg, it's hard to say for sure as I haven't done an accurate test but accurate guesswork puts motorway driving in the region of 18-20mpg, likely more if kept under 3000rpm, that's not easy though She now cruises at 70 in the early 15:1 AFRs and late 14s above 3000rpm ish. This is an excellent result for me, a simple transfer change and quick retune and I can cruise on the motorway at above 15:1 on my regular map. I have 35psi in the tyres which helps and they are not too knobbly/noisy. All in all, excellent so far! Thank you gents!!

So Here an update: After a run out yesterday up the M62 and back, I was yet again astounded at how well the old girl is running after the transfer box change. Performance wise, it's delightful to drive, cruises at 65/70 in near silence, is very happy at 75ish but just cracks 3000rpm so makes a lovely PARRRRRRRRRM sound as you cruise past lesser vehicles, and will do 100mph if you have enough road! All these things are previously unknown quantities to me! Regards mpg, it's hard to say for sure as I haven't done an accurate test but accurate guesswork puts motorway driving in the region of 18-20mpg, likely more if kept under 3000rpm, that's not easy though She now cruises at 70 in the early 15:1 AFRs and late 14s above 3000rpm ish. This is an excellent result for me, a simple transfer change and quick retune and I can cruise on the motorway at above 15:1 on my regular map. I have 35psi in the tyres which helps and they are not too knobbly/noisy. All in all, excellent so far! Thank you gents!!

Yeah my main question was 'why Megasquirt?'

The screw/bolt is simply a detent ball and spring. If you have any detent this is working properly, only rebuilt an LT230 a couple months ago and I've forgotten the detent ball setup already

Just inspected a pair of bailey Morris shafts yesterday that came through Glyn Lewis, yes they are substantially different to the cheapo wide angle version I have fitted to my car.

This water way question is a question for James Martin on Landyzone, he knows all there is to know about LR engineering...

Jack up one front wheel with the handbrake on. When not in difflock you should be able to turn the raised wheel and/or front prop. Pop into diff lock and the wheel/prop should then lock to the rear axle and not rotate. Cheers

It's awkward but you could stick a little screwdriver in the difflock switch hole and get a mate to operate the lever, you should feel the mechanism move back and forth and the screwdriver move up and down The mech is on a nifty setup where it is operated by springs but if you are sat at standstill with a little wiggle of the prop shafts to get the dog teeth on the diff lined up you should be able to get it clicking in and out of difflock easily, thus meaning you can do the screwdriver test and therefore get the diff lock switch setup properly. Put it in difflock, screw in until light comes on and then half a turn more. Have you established whether it is actually locking the diff??

Yeah you're supposed to remove the sensor, check all is working, then pop car in difflock and slowly screw in sensor til difflock light comes on, then screw in half a turn more, then lock position with the little halfnut

i have a cheapo wide angle (theyre all the same unless you buy a bailey morris IMO) and its been superb. Just buy it, fit it, use it til a joint goes funny and then only replace with GKN joints, the rest is just metal. Saves yourself at least £100 per propshaft that way. My front shaft cooks it's top joint every few months/500 miles because it is very close to the oversize exhaust (v8) but as far as i can remember ive not replaced the bottom UJ since ive had the prop so fair enough to whatever joint was in it. I'm pretty sure it was in a britpart bag but i just bought the cheapest new one available at the time off ebay, was around 90 quid, never looked back

http://s99.photobucket.com/user/the_fatboy_racer/media/null-9.jpg.html'> see it?

If you go on LZ in the disco section there is a build thread, in fact here's a link http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/auf_wiedersehen_pets-build-thread-206921.html This guy fitted/had fitted a new 2.8 TGV, could be a good read. Cheers

I think the 300 has a 5 bearing crank or am I getting confused with the change from 19J to 200?

Also www.kcb.co.uk They have an awesome used section and they do repairs. Have been great for me

It will be exactly the same provided you have the same speedo drive gear, but this is easy to swap between the two.

Is this the TGV thing? Can you build it out of a regular 2.5 300 then? I assumed the engine was more different. Lad on Landyzone has done it and it is stonking, he estimates 6k for the conversion to a new 2.8 TGV

If you're going to Silverdale in a standard truck, good luck!! You will be stuck most of the day The best way as above is to use/break/establish fault/repair&upgrade each component as you go. That way you work out what you need. Mine has taken 3 years of the above to establish a plateau but I'm around 10k in!

See here for radiator can switch: http://www.elcome.co.uk/smpe_ecat/ViewPart.asp?p=50000&i=4711&pt=10&cid=129575374 It is M22x1.5 thread and fits in thermal housing as above, can be used for electric fan alone or in hot country as a backup for viscous fan. Cheers