Snagger

Hi all. Does anyone know how many amps these screens pull as a pair, please? And does anyone know a relatively cheap source? Nick.

Buy TRW cylinders. Britpart cylinders have a bad reputation for leaks from poor seals, poor machining and swarf.

I've had pumps and injectors rebuilt by "dieselbob". The results were good and the prices reasonable.

Make sure the vehicle nose is well up - use axle stands or ramps to elevate the front (if you have to, then park on a moderate slope, but make sure the wheels are clocked and the gearbox selected to 1st before you get underneath). This makes sure the trapped air is the the nipple, not the piston. It'll be fine after that.

Try phoning any breakers yard near you - any 300Tdi DI, DII or P38 should have what you're after, and they usually let you have stuff like that cheaply if you remove it yourself.

When my cassette failed, a multimeter read no contact between the two wires (ie no short) and virtually no resistance along both wires. I think there might be a scheduled resistance within the cassette, because as soon as I replaced it, the fault cleared with the ECU diagnostic tool.

If the pedal is that light, it could just be a broken spring. The pedals aren't meant to be heavy, but they shouldn't be like those on a Micra or other such small cars designed to be driven by frail, old dears.

The Discovery sender is different because the Discovery gauge is also different, just like SII and SIII gauges and senders are different and incompatible. In your case, you need to fit the Defender sender to get your gauge to read correctly. Electric fans are way over-rated. They are only advisable where you do a lot of deep wading and need to switch the fan off or where an engine retrofit prevents the fitting of the viscous fan. I have a Discovery 200Tdi in my 109 and wasn't able to retain its original fan, forcing me to fit an electric unit. I suspect you had the same problem - the water pump is in a different place to the Defender version and so displaces the fan, in my case to foul the chassis and brake lines. Don't block the rad with anything if the gauge is reaching 1/3 of the way up the normal arc - that is standard temperature for a Tdi and raising it higher could lead to heat damage. If it isn't reaching that temperature (and the gauge is reading correctly), then replace the thermostat - that is a safe fix that controls the engine temperature to the optimum, but blocking rads is not normal except in Arctic conditions; the thermostat should do the job well enough by itself in the UK climate.

We have no trouble on road with our 2009 90, and the time I used a TDCI off road at the LR Experience showed no over-sensitivity. Unless you have very heavy boots, it could be a faulty pedal.

Assuming the engine had enough rpm to excite the alternator coils (my 300Tdi is fine off the bat, but my 200 needs a small blip on the throttle to excite the coils before the alternator will work at idle), then it sounds like you have a bad alternator - only a depleted battery should suffer a voltage drop like that with the alterator producing a charge, but you don't report starting difficulties, so I have no reason to suspect battery issues.

Ah, properly brewed biodiesel shouldn't cause coking, though it can cause problems with seals and o-rings ( I think it might be the ethanol that attacks them) - it's un modified vegoil, whether new (SVO) or used (WVO) . Some oils are wose than others, the worst being palm oil (the cheapest), followed by soya, while the best is rape seed oil. But all of those should only be used pre-heated to 80oC into a warm engine; even pre-heated, if injected into a cold engine the mist condenses onto the bores and rings as well as forming a nasty thick sticky black sludge that builds up in the head, exhaust manifold and turbo. Heating the vegoil helps produce a finer mist to match the diesel injection pattern, while ensuring the engine is warmed up prevents the condensation of the fuel. Of course, the injection system needs to be purged with pure diesel a little while before shutting down so that you don't cause the coking on the next cold start... Basically, you have the choice of modifying the fuel to match diesel's viscosity, creating biodiesel, or modifiying the vehicle to run on plain vegoil. But one or the other must be modified.

Since he has one, then yes, use the multimeter rather than the voltmeter (I already said that above). I originally suggested the direct bypass because I didn't know he had the tool and because others may have a similar issue and not own a multimeter. Regardless, while the voltmeter may be inaccurate, it's unlikely to be showing different readings based on lighting selections because it is faulty itself. If it is readinga voltage drop within the ignition circuits, then it's likely to be corroded terminals in the fuse box or on the ignition switch.

Virtually nothing, but when chasing voltage drops, it seems a good idea to make sure that the voltmeter itself is getting a good feed with as little resistance as possible. It's only a temporary wire for the test, after all.

Leave the wiring as it is for the test - just move the voltmeter connection directly to the battery instead of (and not in addition to) the existing connection to the fuse box or ignition circuits, or leave that too and just use your multimeter since you have one and try the lights with the engine running. If the battery voltage drps, it's an alternator problem, but if the voltage at the battery stays steady, only then do you need to start poking around the dash wiring.

A lot of people bang on about Tdis loving vegoil and running varying mixes up to neat SVO on a single tak system, but the reality is that it's a very bad idea to skimp on the mods required to do it properly. If you want to use vegoil, then a dual tank system with heat exchangers for the fuel is not optional, it's mandatory. Running the vehicle on vegoil without the mods will cause the severe coking of the injectors you found, but also of the rings, valves and turbo, and also causes vegoil to get down into the sump, polymerising the sump oil and turning into a jelly, which ultimately leads to engine damage.

Try connecting the voltmeter directly to the battery terminal with a decent gauge wire (8A+ will do), and then try it all again. If you get the same results, then the alternator has had it, but if not, then the wiring in the dash is the likely problem - corroded terminals on switch gear connectors and in the fuse box are highly liklely to cause this trouble.

Gorgeous!

All I can suggest is taking to to Maplins and buying a new set of relays, replacing all of them - I wouldn't know which would cause the fault. www.Remotekey.co.uk sells new LR alarm units and I think he overhauls old units, so you could try him. When my RRC's fobs packed up, I bought a new two-button unit from him and he gave me a list of optional features that LR disable, like auto re-lock (relocks the doors if they aren't opened within 20 seconds of unlocking), auto-unlock in an accident, automatic reactivation of the immobiliser if the car is unlocked and a door opened but the engine not started within 20 seconds. There are more, but I had those activated at no extra cost, and he provides an adaptor harness to connect that later unit into the RR's existing loom.

Don't throw away failed switches - they're perfect for use as flywheel locking tools for timing belt swaps.

Play in the steering can happen in so many places that it can be hard to pinpoint. Worn rod ends are the obvious start point, followed but worn swivel bearings and pins, but very common are worn splines on the arms and shafts from the box and relay, worn swivel bottom studs (allowing the arm/pin unit to swivel relative to the housing), worn relay taper bushes allowing the relay's shaft to move, loose or worn bolts allowing the relay to move in the chassis and slack suspension bushes allowing the entire axle to slide left and right. The steering box can develop play. The worm gear at the bottom of the column is centred on two open bearing sets - loose bearings roll against radiused curves on the ends of the worm gear and against outer races secured in the box casing by the square bottom plate and the upper column clamp. The preload or end float on the shaft is set by adding or removing shims between the case and lower cover plate, but any of the 8 bolts securing that plate or the clamp loosening off will increase column end float and slop. Then there is the main nut, which is the carrier that slides up and down the worm gear as the column rotates - it has a row of bearings which can wear (or wear the worm gear if not lubricated properly), and its conical stud which engages the rocker shaft (output shaft) for and the rocker fork itself wear - this slack is what is taken up by box adjustment, but if the worm gear or any of the bearings are worn, then the adjuster will be ineffective. You can see all the innards cleanly laid out on the steering box rebuild post in my blog to help you understand how it all works.

If you jack the back end wheels up, make sure you chock the front wheels and engage 4wd, otherwise the vehicle could roll off the jack. Quality of shafts is down to source, not age. A genuine new shaft should be as strong as the original, but a Britpart one will probably be made of pasta.

Am I right in saying the weakness in standard 4.71 diffs is their flexing, allowing the crown and pinion to move apart, reducing the contact area of the teeth which causes them to strip (cured by pegging)? As I understand it, the 3.54 is stronger just because the crown wheel and carrier thickness prevent that flex, keeping the teeth messed, in which case the KAM gears should be similarly strong.

I wouldn't know how to, or even if you can, tell without removing the plates to measure them.

That should work, but could blow a cheap grease gun apart. You have the vehicle hydraulics sitting there, and they're the easiest way. You don't need to worry about proper bleeding to do it as you can just pump the pedal.

The horizontal slave was used on the SIII from 1972, and would not have been used long prior to that. The clutch you have is the standard SII type.