fatbloke

Have you seen a triumph herald boot stay? That is is the lift and lock, lift and release type of thing, should work great on a rear door.

Is it ok to enter on the day, or do I have to pre-book for round 3 @ mud monsters ?

X-Wife X-Girlfriend X-Hume I could go on.........but I won't

In a Mr Burns voice. X-cellent....

X-stop lock X-Stop Foot X-Lock stop X-Foot Stop

Snap-on have got these http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=645358&group_ID=682080&store=uk&dir=catalog on special at £225+ vat at the mo.

When I was an apprentice one of the first things we made was a drill bit angle gauge. Then we spent a whole week grinding drills..........Oh what fun. You can buy the little angle gauges and with a bit of practice grind drills very well. Then I was taught to grind "fish tail" drills, bit like the spot weld drills which are brilliant for sheet metal as a normal drill can make a triangular hole in thin sheet.

Havea chat with the lads at Bearingboys. i Have sourced lots of weird and wonderful toothed belts from them and they have never let me down. If you can try and get a kevlar reinforced one, that would withstand more abuse than you could hope to throw at it. http://www.bearingbo...CFRR8fAodZ0chwg

Quaife diffs are torque biasing using gears instead of plates. They perform in the same way as a limited slip or a detroit truetrac. The idea is to send the torque to the wheel with least traction, but they will only drive one wheel at a time. I think they are a good idea to use in the front, as I do and it works well in conjunction with the arb in the rear. Retail is around the £600 mark, so £120 is a good deal. What have you got to lose ? Apart from £120 !!!! The only thing to watch is that they use 19 splines as their std fitment, but they are normal sun gears so can be changed for 10 or 24 spline.

I certainly do, I'm an ex-Hitachi engineer. Check out my website. http://sites.google.com/site/speedcncgbbo00/home

What a small world ! Serviced a Hicell 250 last week in Rotherham. That ones been broken a bit too, but now runs a treat after having about £20+k spent on it.

I use these. http://www.devon4x4....emart&Itemid=14 Just requires a switch in the cab and the cutoff solenoid can be mounted next to the winch solenoid to cut down on cable useage.

Yup. Point taken. But a good quality machine makes it easier.

Ooohh Hicell 250, nice machine if your doing alloy work, bit delicate for the tough stuff. Glad I don't have to repair that.

Blimey, you must have some carp lathes at work !!

I did the Mike Wolfe in 2009 when it was at Somerly. Great event and am looking forward to it next year in the new truck. Was planning to spectate this year as I know a few of our club members were ready to compete again, would have done it last year, but not keen on the Muddy bottom site. Be a real shame if this goes the way of the Dodo as it seems to be the one big event that some of us like to do.

This is the stuff I use. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-824-silkolene-pro-rg2-racing-grease.aspx Had it in for about 3 years and it's still the same now as when I put it in. No probs with bearing wear or water washing it out.

Don't forget Sumitomo for tooling. Or give Rob at R&R tooling 07880748023 a call.

I drove that about 4 years ago, lovely bit of countryside. Be a massive shame to loose it, but it just takes 1 puffed up landowner to ruin it for the whole country. Incidently, on the same trip we got called a W****rs by a frail old lady out walking her dog whilst doing about 15 mph on a road !!!

Some hardinge conquest's machine bases were made from a concrete type resin, as it's just as stable as cast iron, so why not cast one yourself ?

I've got one of the Clarke 1 ton types from MM and have had a 200 tdi with gear and transfer box on it without any probs. Folds up small too. About £165 if I recall.

I reckon the best way to go with a lift is......up. And incedently, you don't need longer hoses with a 2" lift. I've been running mine for 3 years, extended shocks, disslocation cones and cranked arms without extended hoses with no problems at all.

Or in your case......brakes.

Try these. I use them and find them excellent. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/53181/Workwear-PPE/Protective-Clothing/Gloves/Snickers-Workwear-Specialist-Handling-Craftsmans-Gloves-XL

You could try plating over the radio slot and putting switches in that, that's what I've done.