Fatboy

I've used it a couple of times but sprayed it on. I've also got a couple of packs and the tint because I'm going to do the panels on the 90 when I get a chance. I wouldn't try rolling it on though as it dries very quickly. You get a nice finish with the shutz gun.

... and indeed, it turned out to be the connector had fallen off the VR sensor. Started with a flick of the key and drove off the trailer! ?

I wish... Its a V8, so I have an auxiliary tank in the rear wing behind the wheel with a pump that transfers the 20 litres from the sump of that tank into the main tank (did that), and then I had the jerry can in the back that I put there "just in case" the gauge was lying.. I'd lobbed that in too! The style of the cut-out didn't seem fuel related, it didn't stutter and cough, then stutter again, it just stopped.. I was too ashamed to lift the bonnet for too long with the amount of traffic passing by, and I'm really surprised I haven't had any emails at work with the "was that you broken down again?" title....

So, the Megasquirted V8 was finally running okay and I was in the quandry of "It needs run to be tuned" and "It needs an MOT to be out on the open road where the tuning will take place" (I'm terrified of ANPR systems nowadays so legal is the only way to go). I finally plucked up the courage to book it for an MOT in a test station near my work and set off this morning at 6:30ish... All was going well, it was perky, and sounded okay, gauges were looking fine, and after about 6 miles of single track roads, I got to a decent stretch to give it a bit of welly - running fine, great, splendid, chuffed.... i was almost tempted to turn the stereo on and relax a bit from "Meerkat mode". Then I reached the brow of a hill and it just cut out. My years of Green Oval Ownership experience immediately kicked in and I looked for an area to pull into safely off the road - I even found myself deliberately pulling up in the lay-by quickly to leave room for my trailer in front which I somehow knew was going to involved in the story.. Sure enough, after 10mins of superficial checking (no tools!), and two fly-by's by the local constabulary, I called the missus (That was popular) to come and fetch me, so I could go home and collect the trailer with the Range Rover, and retrieve the shamed 110. Meantime, three or four nice looking, newer 110's tootled past.... I wasn't jealous..... much. By the time I got back to the lay-by, a big mobile crane had parked in front of it, and I had a bit of a laugh when I politely asked the driver if he'd shift, or if he fancied picking the 110 up and plonking it on the trailer to save me winching it on.. he declined. The cops cruised by once more and either figured that it was unlikely some clown in a suit is nicking a 110 with a trailer, or ran the registrations and realised they were both registered to the same person, either way, they didn't stop. All up, the episode lasted about 2 and a half hours... and its now pouring rain (Modus operandi for a Scottish summer) ... so diagnostics this evening will be in the wet, deep joy. At least its not snowing... yet.

I checked the plugs leads and they were fine Tanuki... That would have made sense though! Blocked the internal ports off with a snug fitting lump of silicon hose.. That sorted the high idle out and I adjusted it using the throttle stop as advised. Now got it to a nice 900rpm.. Reconnected the PWM valve and the idle went back up so I decided to try and live without the PWM for now until I make some progress on basic running... I reloaded Nige's basic 4.6 map because I suspect with all of the rich running, the adjusted previous map would be garbage. It is running a lot smoother now!! I'm using TunerStudio, and the following day, when the engine was cold, decided to try and autotune the warm up.. Now, here is todays mystery that i can't fathom out. During this exercise, the display is telling me that the O2 is "Out of Range" but it is from the "Rear Bank". Yet if I go to the main Gauge Cluster, it is giving me a different reading on the "Front Bank" ---> Note that this photo of the gauge cluster wasn't during the warm up attempt (That photo was fuzzy!) but it does show the different labelled O2.. I've had a good look about in the various menu's but cannot see anywhere where I can confirm where it is getting the data from. Could it be picking up a rogue signal from somewhere? My exhaust only has one Lambda sensor, on the single pipe beyond the Y. I read somewhere that that might be tricky because the exhaust is getting cooler there, and I do have tubular manifolds but they are thermotec wrapped.. When I took it out for a quick run, and tried autotune, the O2 quickly went out of range so I guess its back to the manual to see if my various settings are correct. If anybody has any thoughts or suggestions, please feel free to chuck them at me. (and if I've made any howling errors or assumptions in my scribblings, please point them out too ). Every day is a school day... Thanks.

I blanked the red hose, then put a plate over the face that the IAC bolts to..

So, I was confused by the various attachments on the plenum, and thought I'd investigate. To the right of the throttle position sensor is the IAC (Idle Air Control). When open, this allows air to be drawn in through the red hose. The drilled out plug on the top accesses the allen key which I thought was something to do with idle control and indeed it is, but only if you are using the IAC as it seems to regulate air flow past the valve. It does nothing with the throttle butterfly settings... I had wondered if the IAC valve was maybe jammed open, but it wasn't and now i can see it wouldn't have mattered because I've for the red hose plugged. I removed the IAC valve and blanked the hole... (I've fitted a PWM valve on the back on the plenum so wasn't planning on using the IAC, but maybe I should alter that plan?) You can see the allen screw (marked with a white dot) that controls the lower limit for the throttle linkage, and therefore the throttle butterfly. This has an allen head that can only be accessed from underneath, so to give me a bit of adjustment, I've turned this the other way up. It should give a nice solid stop, rather than using the adjustment of the throttle cable. Fridge was correct, the vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator, that I've T'd off for the MAP hose was split at both ends.. Having put it all back together, my idle is now way too high, I've assumed that my previous maps were garbage so I had reloaded Nige's base 4.6 map and checked all of the basic settings. I disconnected my PWM valve, and blanked the hose, no difference. The throttle stop is as low as it was originally, and the cable not tight. Reset the TPS, which now has a lower setting of 14. To be honest, I'm baffled where it is getting the air from because the throttle butterfly must be shut... I wonder if the MAP vacuum is too low because of the 4mm bore of the hose and that is sharing with the fuel pressure regulator? (75kpa). Tomorrow, I'm going to put a temporary T on the brake vacuum hose to see if I get a better figure.. IIf anybody spots any howling errors, please holler!

This is a bit uncanny, I replaced my split vacuum hose yesterday and had a root around the plenum to try and figure out how it works, when I put it back together, mine now idles at about 2000rpm.. I'll post a couple of photos on my thread because I don't want to mess yours up! PS Exactly what point did you connect your MAP hose to?

Good call on the split MAP hose which is T'd off the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator. I took the plenum back off to explore the idle screw and water flow.. I'll post photos later.

Funnily enough, I drilled the anti-tamper plug on mine last night. My Allen head is 3/16".

So, this has been motivated by the "How to keep motivated on a project" thread and the realisation that it has been almost a year since the last purge on trying to get the 110 running properly... So, after I jet washed the leaves off it, this is what it looks like now: I've loaded one of Nige's base 4.6 maps, and tried a couple of others, its been to a Tuning Place in the big smoke because they told me they could handle Megasquirt but it was not really much different when it came back - It splutters but I think that is because its using a silly amount of fuel. i.e. I had it running last night for 10mins and the gravel behind was a darker colour behind the exhaust and smells of fuel.. I'm therefore coming to the conclusion that I must have something fundamentally wrong but I can't figure out what.. I have gone through the tips on Nige's most recent troubleshooting post and that all checks out (Air Temp is working, water temp is working etc etc). and tonight I'm back in the manuals and related threads.. Fingers crossed.

So, to close this one out. I fitted the 140 cap and all has been almost fine. Header tank split a couple of weeks ago but I'm fairly sure it was the original, and its now done almost 160k miles so not too bad. Goodness knows where the 200 cap came from but its now been binned. Thanks for the help..

Just to update my little bit of input into this thread, I've now been running with the Gates 10mm belt for a few weeks now, and am racking up the miles as I've been using the 90 for daily commuting etc and the belt is fine, no wear or dust indicating that it has been rubbing adversely.. Not even had to tighten it up. Considering I'd gone through piles of 11mm belts, it seems to have solved the issue for me.

On the tanks I've had, there has always been a stamped plate with a certification expiry date. It may not be law, but insurers usually want a certificate of some variety for installation and I'd have thought that periodic maintenance and inspection (even self inspection) was implied.

How about a comprehensive set of seal drivers made of a resilient plastic. Long one for fitting a diff seal (to cope with the pinion). One for fitting the caliper piston seal retaining ring (needs to go outside the piston but inside the caliper body) Hub seals (might as well) - need to be sized to avoid the outer lip but fit inside the hub) Various engine crank seals. Front & rear transfer box seals (again have to go over shafts). As a starter, I'll have a crack at measuring up what I'd see useful when I get home if you are interested.

Bless you for this... I've been in the huff with mine for weeks because I couldn't get it tuned. (It is burning an amazing amount of fuel, like Sherman Tank mpg levels of amazing). I'll print this out tomorrow and have another crack at it..

I'm the same as Ed. I've had mine for a few years now. The gearbox is sensitive to overheating and the radiator isn't the best for helping keep it cool, thus I've put a couple of rads on mine, and a water cooled alt (£500-ish?) - easy to fit, you become an expert at getting fans off, radiator out etc. mine is now close to 160k miles. Great piece of kit:

For the air suspension, turn the steering from lock to lock, that might activate it. Discs are a breeze to fit.. Key fob may just need a battery.. I'd focus on the source of the chuffing myself..that might be a tricky / expensive problem.

It may be the leaking exhaust is throwing the lambda readings out of whack, therefore the engine light. Lambda sensors are £59 for Lucas ones and there are two pairs. My exhaust was cracked at the front on both sides, sorted with the welder. If it was the head gasket, and it's the BMW petrol engine, apparently it's quite an involved job, and you need special tools for the vanos system.. Windscreen is £500-ish. Air suspension may be height sensor, or leaking bag which has burnt the compressor out.. It may need new air springs all round (another £500) plus a compressor.. Mine hasn't had any other faults. . So, yes, it could be an easy number of fixes, or the doomsday scenarios might add up to be a wad of cash..

Ralph, In my humble opinion, this little fella had some pre-existing cracks, particularly on the lower half in the photo, shown by the dark areas which are probably discoloured because they have existed for some time (started to rust, or ingress of lubricant).

Simon, I've also got a CT177 and it doesn't have lights on rubber arms. Mine are all fixed to the steel frame. There are four white lights on the front and three ambers down each side.

Mine was going through them line it's going out of fashion.. Belt dust everywhere and initially I thought it was corrosion on the pulleys rubbing the belt down, I cleaned the pulleys with emery paper & wire brushing but that made no difference. I had been running Dayco 11A1030C until I read somewhere that there are a couple of different width belts. Last week I fitted a Gates AVX10x1025 which is 1mm narrower and indeed sits better in the pulleys. Time will tell.

Good find David. It must be a nightmare when the blade is narrower than the track. Overspill will go under the wheels along with the un-dozed material, making the front of the vehicle lift and therefore the blade.

I've ploughed a fair bit of snow with an Atkinson blade on my Defender. It's frame indeed bolts to a reinforced front bumper with stays back to the chassis. With heavy, wet snow, you need to get quite rough and use momentum to make the snow move.. I'm not sure how effective it would be if you were dozing earth - I suspect unless it was already well broken up, you'd struggle. Actually, thinking of the force compared with ploughing, you can work out that the surface area of a plough vs a 6ft wide dozer blade has a significant difference..

LRDirect have an excellent format with the prices and alternatives if you have the part number. There are a number of alternatives under "Britpart" who distribute parts made by others too. Thus, its not a simple case of don't use anything that may be remotely associated with Britpart because some of the stuff is fine.