AndyEvans

scrap them and buy some others is what ill be inclinded to do.

try rs components http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchB...1670+4294956663

also the emissions change around this time as well

lol exactly where ive just been looking thanks

sounding stupid here. but is that the thread on the 300 is 1/8npt or u have to get one and modify it to fit into the old one?

u will also prob want to put a 1.4 transfer box in instead beacuse it might be rather too high geared otherwise

u could use marguard which is what is used in forestry machine cab winows. but is quite expensve

lol god knows why i put this in the discovery section. belt is fine. good idea about uj remember them being having that nice brown rust colour at the uj,s. supprising it went straight through its mot like that with no advisory though.

today after not driving my 90 for a while ive noticed that the steering is acting weird. its feels lumpy when u try to turn the wheel stiff to move sometimes then easy. also it doesnt want to spin back when u let go. its got enough oil for the pump, dosnt make any noises, its a 6 bolt box and a 300tdi pump if that helps thanks Andy

and for that reason there are some maths to do. or a handy online calcultor http://www.norbar.com/Calculators/TorqueWr...70/Default.aspx

the best paint that ive found to spray is a make called mipa. it sprays on really smooth, dries nice and quick and smells nice lol

this is only a ali version of brazzing so can not be as strong as a ACTUAL weld where the parent metals are melted together with a filler.

hyper clean by comma works well as does a mix of petrol and diesel

another way is to just use the disco handbrake leaver and put it next to the drivers seat and get rid of the old one much more comfortable

oil coolers are normally only rated at about 30bar working pressure and a return line can easilly see more then that unless the system is design correctly.

we have a thermobile at work and its great it only smokes a bit to start before it warms up properly we burn it on all our waste oil. and we can use up to 40l a day in it on max power. its a god send when we use it. the parts are cheap as well for them

as has been said before blow the insides out and change the linner theres no point in messing about blowing the old one out.

basically a 4x4 with out center diff lock engaged is really 4x1 with center diff locked 4x2

another vote for the thermadyne 51 at work yes its 3 phase but there very gd and easy to use. but make sure u shop around beacuse we managed to save our selves about £200 on our one by doing that

slitting disk on a grinder and cut the front of the lock off and u can get to the mechanisum to turn to unlock the box

all i did was bolt it straight to the lt77 none of the bolts line up on the bottom of the engine but the chevy v8 only bolt in around half of the bellhousing so isnt a majour problem

i think u should be able to as long as u change the diff over from 10spline 20 the 21 spline diff. u may need to change for of the studs that hold the diff on from short ones to long ones. hope this helps

another way that the oil can be drain is to fit a hydraulic pipe instead of the sump plug and put a blanking plug on the end. if u make a bracket to hold it out of the way normally u shouldnt find any probs with it flopping about. or if uve got some time make a bracket with a blanking plug fixed to it and screm it on so it holds it well. this method works perfectly well on forestry machines so carnt see any reason it wont work on a land rover.

yer its beacuse of the front grill and this was all built on a series 1 chassis with coils added

dont know about series 3's but for series 1's u need a lt77 for this. hope this helps