AndyEvans

dont know if its the same as a 300tdi but a 32mm fits that but it needs modifying to make it thinner to fit in behind the fan and engine block.

simon u could try hose and general supplies in billingshurst hes normally happy to make pipes u supply to him. or if its not many i prob could do them at work for u as im only just outside billingshurst.

when we rebuild engines at work we use a thin grease that is quickerly disloved in the oil when running (also gd to prime the oil pump with) a gd liberal smear with this should work ok. remember when u start the engine for the first time not to let it run for very long with out a load on or the pistons bores will galze up.

mine did this and found it was the front propshaft uj's.

most engines i think are M10 threads in the bell housing iirc it wants to be about 25/30mm long or is for 200/300's

when i totally kncakerd my back prop it cost me £80 or there abouts from dunsfold land rover (one for a TD)

1. yes you keep the old flywheel okay but would change the rear main while doing this swap. its only a couple of minute job 2. i used one for the discovery carnt rmeber what make it was. valeo i think 3. dont know bout this particular i just used the old on of the gearbox. 4. yes u should be able to use the original props aslong as the transfer box is in the original position several of the bolt holes wont line up if u use the 300 bell housing. so might be a gd idea to source a flywheel of a 200,TD,N/A or any other one thats was fitted to a LT77. mine at the moment is just attached using the 300 bell housing not the best. but im planning to change to a r380 when i can find one for the right price.

im in the proceess of doing this myself done all the gauges but not the speedo. all works ok but the fuel gaugue is wobilling all over the place and wont stay still. just wondering if u might have any ideas on whats causing it.

the most common one is a pcl fitting. but most have the same threads so u should be able to unscrew the old one and put a new one in

looking at this it looks simialar to a big skidder winch. the only way to get the big gear off is a beam puller (there should be a couple of holes in the gear which u can put big bolts through to the beam. and pull with the biggest puller u have. u may still need to heat the gear up to get it to move if its stuck solid. hope this helps

u dont have to get a new output shaft if u cad weld u can reapair the splines with weld and grind them down untill a new gear fits on nice and snuglly. ive done this to my 90 and several other ppl i know have donr this and done over 50k on them without them wearing.

yes it should do. mine had seized totally up so i removed it to sort it out and it passed the mot fine without it. also my old fiesta didnt have one and passed ok with out it

why spend all that money on one of those tools where a 3/8 drive socket and a long extension fits on easily to undo them all.

the load sensing pumps normally pump about 5l/min when not required to pump anything and also deliver a propertianl amount of oil when required i.e dosnt send the whole capacity of the pump when its not needed. these pumps are not really sutible for this due to there size and weight.

i would personally use those sensors mentiond but they need to be placed about 0.5mm away from what they pick up on to be acurate. but they are easily damaged which make them stop working completly. there are a choice of npn or pnp sensors avalible. if there wired up wrong u will also damage them.

forgot to mention im 19 with a crash and speeding ticket. but 1 years ncb

carnt say much about the differnce between the two but my insurance was about £950 fully comp with the NFU but if your under 21/25 carnt remeber which they dont like giving insurance to you. helps if your parent are with them first. even then you may struggle.

I would personally get only a tifor. For that type of winch and would get the tu32 but that is quite expensive but withstands a lot of abuse. It has a pull capacity of 5 ton and lift of 3.5 ton. if you want a cheaper less heavy duty version you should look at the tu532.

that "john deere" walking tractor is actually about a 10 year old walking harvster prototype desogn for harsh ground conditions in forests

you could extend the earth from the battery -ive to the bolts that hold the starter to the engine block which should sort this problem as well.

thanks for the advice in the end i just twisted it off with a pair of grips and hay presto. found i can open the drivers door with any key i have to hand now. time to get a bit more security on it i thinks.

nope as its a 1990 90 which i know has had all the locks replaced to match. ive got a key that will unlock the front doors but not the back door or fuel filler cap.

okay i know it was a stupid thing to do but does any one if you can get the fuel filler cap off without the key. and if possible without damaging it.

the egr valve has been removed completly and blanked off will try new air filter tommorow. all the turbo pipes are okay when i changed the engine over the other week

driving home yesterday the engine power seemed to die when accelerating up past 60mph in 5th gear ( and otheres if you hold it in gear) you can feel the car decelerating quite quickerly and it produces lots of black smoke out of the exhust. but if you declutch and let the revs die back and start driving again it is okay again untill you do it again. any ideas to what is causing it. it is a 300tdi out of a discovery into a 1990 TD 90 and none of the egr system is connected thanks