henk

Got an answer on another forum: it’s the roamerdrive lever I was looking for http://roamerdrive.com/pdfs/dsparts.pdf

I finally got my hydraulic winch installed and very pleased. Just the position of the lever to engage it is under the chair close to the handbrake and far from ideal. Tried also with a handbrake cable, engaging (pull) works fine but it has problems with disengaging (pushing) Now thinking to go pneumatic but I heard that there is also a system that has to be installed close to the difflock but can not find any info. Who can point me in the right direction?

I got 50+ carling rocker switches but all 24v. Can I just replace the led by a 12v version or is there more involved?

Just wanted to order some parts for my Mile marker and notice they are closed ....

I mailed the company for more info and got this reply: Our CV are produced in Germany, from the manufacturer that produce all the drivetrain products for Porsche Cup, or the original CV´s for the G-Wagon, and all German and European Rallye Raid Dakar TeamsThe Ashcroft CV is made from S155 or 300M, and we learned that the ball ways are not clear it is raw machined witch give shorter lifetime to ball cage and balls. The cv it self is strong. But it is stiff because it is made fromone material.We also use many Ashcroft parts as well and they are great...We follow another technology, the CV housing is a harder material the inner racer or ball housing is a little bit softer material, the ball ways (where absolutely precise machined) for long lifetime. The balls are made by SKF.If fact you have a flexibility in it with is used in all Paris Dakar Vehicles, and armoured vehicles... military use etc. the also made the CV´s for Osh Kosh when they change from U-Joint to CV.

Back to topic: 41CrV4 seems to be an equivalent of the us 4340 steel

As parts from the UK will be now more expensive for us due to import taxes, I looked at an alternative for Ashcroft cv’s and found a German company that can be found here: Engage4x4.com (Home/Catalog/Defender Accessories/Defender Drivetrain/CV joint kit Defender) They make cv’s but no much details on the web. They claim strenght to be between RM 1350-1400mm2 but I have no clue how this compares to the Ashcroft ones. Material is 41CrV4 & S155 Anybody here who knows them?

I am in contact with Peter Lamb already, indeed nice bloke, he sent me all documentation about the kit. Found locally a new 160cc motor so can play now to see what is the best setup

All hoses are DN12 or almost 1/2, the one from tank to pump is DN19 or 3/4

So just had a closer look at the motor, type is MR 100 SH/4 This gives me 100 cm³/rev with max revs of 600 => it can handle 60 liter/min This is in line with the 26 cm³ pump and the V5-60 valve Pressure is cont. 175 bar

Nige, there is no mark at all on the motor so how do I know it’s a low power one? It’s a complete package including a hy-pro v5-60 valve, over centre valve, all tubes but with a small about 6 liter tank

So bought myself an hydraulic winch without knowing the exact type. There is a number on and a CE mark and probably a production date (03 08) but that's it. Winch has the high/low handle als well as the freespool one. There is documentation with how to connect it and they talk about a H12, so I assume it could be a Mile Marker H12 Picture: The documentation also talks about an AML pto. Some googling here tells me this could be an Alfred Murray Ltd pto but I can not find any pictures Picture of the pto below More questions: the pump is a 25cc one, is this enough to get reasonable linespeed? Thanks for shedding some light

I had the same idea but have at both sides these military lockers ... 😳

Got a pto pump and a hydraulic tank long ago but now looking at installing a hydraulic winch. Question is, is it intended for a defender and if yes, where to mount this tank. Some pictures:

Thanks, this helps already!

So I fitted a second alternator to my 110 using the kit supplied by Gwyn Lewis but has somebody here installed a Sterling external alternator regulator that better charges the battery?

So I have the second alternator installed but can I use a led light as control light to check the working of the alternator or do I need to use a normal bulb? Solved: it's not a good idea

>Has any one here fitted one of these? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0658/7343/files/eng_fre_ger_a5.pdf?483

This is picture of the outlet, he was not sure if I need also the 2 other tubes

Thanks, mail to Andy is on it's way

On a 2.5D this alu piece on the engine has a 90 degree angle and is not straight as on td5 but I guess such piece does not exist?

My top hose is bend at the place indicated by the first arrow on page 4 of Gwyns instructions It's a 160Ah alternator so bigger than the 100Ah he uses

So the 2nd alternator I would like to use on my td5 is too big to fit under the upper radiator hose. Are there people here that changed or rerouted this upper hose?

Have a 2nd alternator for my winch but this one has a 4 wire PLIS connector like below Do I just need to connect the S and the L?

Camping just before the German/Austrian border: Camping Donautal, Schillerstr, 94577 Nesslbach, DE. In the next small town there is a very good greek restaurant Fuel at the Austrian/Hungarian border: JET Parndorf, exit Outlet center, Strasse 1, Cheap hotel in Hungary just after the AT border with parkingspace: www.hotelminerva.hu