henk

Mmm, the hose is a bit smaller than the entrance at the airbox so I fixed it with silicone but it is indeed a good and easy option option. Will try

Question regarding my 110 TD5 with VNT: I have a snorkel on my 110, one that goes through the top of the wing with internal diameter 2,5 inch. From the snorkel to the airbox I have a flexible hose reinforced with metal so all the original plastic stuff is gone. But I have the feeling that the engine is not pulling as it could, Measured the pressure between turbo and intercooler and get max 1 - 1.1kg with full throttle in 3rd. Questions I have: - is ID of 2,5 inch enough for a TD5? - what about modifying the internal of the airbox? - increase the pressure of the VNT?

I Have the Makita BTW450 (now DTW450) but also the very small DTW280. With the 450 I can change tyres of 6 cars (4 off, 4 on) on 1 battery easily. Even the DTW280 is good for changing tyres but very very handy in small places etc, used it a lot to assemble my 110

For a 110 TD5 is the part Number: 395142 ?

The TUV is not that bad, the constructor of for example a winchbumper seeks TUV approval and when obtained het gets an approval number. As buyer you go to the TUV with your car and you show them the approval number and everything is fine. In Belgium it depends from MOT station to MOT station and you are never shure if they will accept something next time. For major modifications you need approval of LR Belgium ...

Yep, months of searching and downloading ...

With financial help of my club, the Belgian Land Rover Owners Club Belgium (LROCB) , I have put some manuals online They can be found here: http://manuals.lrocb.be If you see things that are missing, let me know

Thanks for all the info, I will have a closer look at putting just the tank behind de gearbox

@Steve: yes, I looked at your setup but I do not like the idea of having the tank under the car although very easy to drain. I also thought about a kind of shelf just under the roof where I could mount the tank and the compressor on and where I could store other stuff like jackets etc or another option was to hang it vertical just behind the drivers seat but it always comes back to fix it it in a save way

compressor is a viair with 100% duty cycle so no problem . I like the idea of the small co2 bottles

In the 110 TD5 hardtop, I am working on my on-board air and have an about 60cm long viair tank (2,5 gallon or so) with 5 exists so easy to connect gear. However due to the long size difficult to find a good place out of the way as I also have a 200 liter extra tank in the rear with on top 6 batterycells of 2 volt from a forklift I also have a compact 6 liter alu tank found at Newbury that could fit very nice below the passenger seat (I moved the ecu). However this one has only one exit/entrance. Eventually there is also space for the compressor. Any pro or contra's for a tank with just one entrance? I could work with a kind of manifold. What about putting the compressor also under the passengers seat? I could have left the ecu there then as well Where have you put your tank?

Something similar to this could work:

I have put a second fuel tank in my hardtop 110. The fuel filler neck has to come out through the side, about 30-40cm behind the door. Now I am looking for a kind of door so the fuel cap is protected and invisible and eventually locked as well Something like this but for car use

We are in Romania in that period

It looks like the flap mechanism inside is blocking (previous owner had an accident and bent the dash with his knee). Passengers flap is closed but the drivers flap stays open. I pulled the flap down and fixed it with a screw but it looks the exit to the window side is still blocked somehow as not much air comes out there, at least not as much as on the passengers side

The heater in my td5 110 works really well except all the heat goes to the feet and not on the windows. Removed the side and the outside of the cable moves when I move the handle from bottom to windows. Tried to fix that but it looks it is blocked somewhere. Where to look before I dismantle the whole dash?

Space saving radio: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Street-Rods-Ultimate-Hidden-SST-AM-FM-iPod-USB-Stereo-Radio-Controller-System-/320762583447?hash=item4aaef09997:g:VxgAAOSwhwdVU5FZ

Have a metal mantec snorkel that normally goes via a hole on the shoulder of the wing but why is it not fit on the top of the wing? As far as I can see, the bonnet can still be opened and the wing better keeps it strength

NNN500020 is perfect

10p = msb type, remappable but needs then a new chip inside 15p = nnn type = remappable

@stretched 110: that could explain why the check of the chassisnr gave me a 110 identification

Changed the droparm on my 110 to a straight one from a D1 but my turning circle is enormous. I could see only one way to put the droparm on the steering box or do I have to adjust it more by turning the front steering bar more in/out?

Is there any diiference between a rapier chassis and a normal chassis?

Thanks, I looked in body parts and could not find them there

I have a tube fixed on the seatbase. Inside another tube that can be moved higher/lower. On the top of the innertube a ring on which a rammount goes to a alu frame with the cf19 on. Can make picture tomorrow if you want