teabag

For discodave photos of the heat shield. You will see brackets on top of box (pic 1&4) they are not part of the existing shield I put bolts in to protect the holes...the 4 brackets are for an extra shield if required thanks to Janspeed. and for Les about a third of the center box is underneath the centre of the rear footwell B) but mine is about 5 inches from the floor.

Come on... feet on the floor pan above the exhaust center box. On my 97 disco a heatshield was never mounted on the exhaust and the same with any fixings. As a heatshield is shown in the book, some models must have it, but, as you say could come loose and fall off. Perhaps thats why LR fitted the heat resisting fibre mat to the underside as fitted to my disco. Even if discodave got his gigsaw out and cut a heatshield how is it fitted, there no slots or screw holes on the exhaust centre box.

Hi discodave, I replaced my original cat back system last year and the centre box didn't have a heatshield attached although there is one shown in my parts catalogue. What i did find was a stiff fibre shield attached to to the underside of the floor above the centre box but it was much smaller than the centre box, there's a biggish gap between the top of the box and the fibre shield so I did't have any concerns over heat. I can get underneath tomorrow and take a pic. Thinking about it I don't think the centre box is near the transfer box.

Not bad at all. lucky lucky you. A dash and steering wheel will take all your loose that change you in the centre console O I see you do have a dash.. what was that all about? Best of luck and WELCOME to the Forum

Let us know how you get on Ok. From putting on my overalls getting the trolly jack and tools out, to washing up it took me four hours to do just one seal. Some say I went to sleep underneath the disco, but no I was busy all the time. I did take the wheel off for better access and grease the props.

Hi discodave. I had a look in my parts manual and as they say in the films "I Concur" you do have the right number.

Did my rear diff two weeks ago. Didn't need a tool to remove the old seal just a big screwdriver to lever it out. Didn't use the special tool either to fit the new seal, the tip is after it's lined up square to the hole, tap around lightly with a small hammer and once the seal is in use the old seal on top of the new seal when tapping around the seal to ensure it goes in squarely. I hope you have four bolt flanges as I believe three bolt require a tool or something made up to remove remove the flange. O and there's another tool to undo the flange/prop bolts but I just used two spanners.

Here's how to do it... http://www.difflock.com/servicing/ZF-auto-...oilchange.shtml

A MEAN MACHINE and the winch is not bad either

Ok tuko, I have seen that site before. The important part is that groove to retain the O ring, which the brass plug from B&Q or any other plumming materials supplier doesn't have.

Sounds good. Do you have a link to this ebay seller?

The fat O ring is just to show a sealing possibility. The brass plug is laying in the tool box just in case its ever needed. I have a selection of O rings again from B&Q so may try a thinner one or even a fibre washer when the time comes. But I think replacing my plastic plug will be a long way off, I'm now using the red long life anti-freeze so the plastic plug only has to be removed once every five years, and as the anti-freeze has only been changed three times over the last eleven years the existing plug still looks as new.

£1.40 from B&Q not £9.39 delivered from X-Eng.

If is South London then look here. http://www.kentlandroverclub.co.uk/Garages_feature.htm

What model of disco?? The clovebox latch for a D1 is a replacable part, there are two types depending on the VIN of your vehicle.

Dont know about the compatability of Dexron 2 and 3 but I've been running a Land Rover auto for 22 years using Dexron 2 without any probs. If you wish to use Dexron 3 then have your auto box emptied by suction and refilled with Dexron 3

An interesting site on the dark subject of lambda sensors, also interesting is the note "Test and/or replace every 30,000 miles". who does that.

Comma AQM will do as it's to Dexron 2 spec which LR recommend for the D1, their AQ3 is a fully synthetic Dexron 3 ATF. Also when you drain the fluid you will only get about have the 9 litres, half remains in the torque converter.

Well I did't know that, just had a look myself. You live and learn even after 11+ years of ownership.

Sorry karlo, I should have giving u credit for the pic. Still buying goodies then.

Hi ashtray, I do know of the lane, but I haven't driven it, only a recce a few years ago on a mountain bike, It's still got the bomb holes and mud I see.

Before and after

Paddocks don't say, they are a pattern part so you will not see the Land Rover logo on them. I understand that these lamps give out a bit more light (brighter) as the black surround is reflective on the inside and therefore sending some stray light back onto the lamps reflector. Don't know if this true.

Or find yourself a rear prop and a pinion flange off the later V8, they dont have "donuts"

No, but all the info is in James Taylor's book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rover-Discovery-19...r/dp/1899870407