teabag

Lucky him. When they first came out there was a few design faults but thats all been sorted now, alarms still give probs if you are unlucky. He better be quick as the D4s are out now, but then I suspect there's fields full of D3s some where.

Have a look here....... http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/

That is ETC5679 Pully-crankshaft-single groove.. Both numbers are from my disco parts catalogue but I have notice some errors with numbers/discriptions in the past

After cleaning the glass seal a dab of Vaseline on the edge where it touches the glass works. You may have water getting past the vehicle roof to sunroof seal, if so put some sealent around the outer frame of the sunroof. Theres lots of info on this subject in forums and on the www so do a search.

Its ETC4330 Pully-crankshaft

AMR1253 Transducer Speed 571665 O ring-seal transducer

There's a hexagon bolt head on the backplate to adjust the handbrake

The dim-dip relay has a yellow connector.. Hope it helps

From my experance of the two vehicles RRC/Disco the back box is a different shape and locations of the exhaust mountings are also different.

Only use genuine Land Rover parts with a V8 ignition system, shop around for the best price, but where you get them from is up to you.

Could depend on the spec/model and country you are in as some disco's have an interlock which can give probs.

Well done at least some one has done it correctly, as any locksmith and they will tell you to keep a way from any oil based lube in locks.

You will get them from this company, they do standard and custom springs. http://www.british-springs.co.uk/

I have just replaced my seal and I used FTC5258, so as my disco is a 97 and which of two seals depends on the VIN of the disco, I would say yours would use FRC8220 (early vin no's). The pt.no FRC4586 is not listed in my disco parts catalogue. I got my OE seal from Rimmer's for just under £10+P&P I only use genuine parts for stuff like oil seals but u can get non gen. for £3 or £4.

Oil could be leaking from the sump seal and then blowing back onto the rear of the brake drum.

The is a lot for sale on ebay from £15 to £60.

A good tip JA. 'use it or loose it' as they say.

Should it rotate? .................Yes, they are not keyed. Should it move in/out easily? .....................They are an exact fit but should push in/out Is there likely to have been any damage to hub through overheating? ......................... May be, but you may be lucky you will soon know if the seal has gone Can I fit free off or need to fit new piston kit? ............... New kit, its sticking because the chrome is peeling off the old piston. Is there a piston kit?.................. I would think so., but check out the price of a new caliper, that may be better for you. Is it wise to do both rears?.................... Wise? may be but no need to do them at the same time. After all that, I'll change fluid, normal bleeding procedure? ...................Yes longest pipe first unless a D2 is different. A nice mornings job if/when the sun is shining

Question: Why is your ABS horrible. Mine never activates unless there's snow and/or ice on the road so for me thats only once or twice a year, may be. That's right mine doesn't have vented disks either and I have never felt the need for them, although I never tow anything. Vented disks and their calipers are shown in the disco parts catalogue

Check that the interior light works on all door switches ie. open one door see the light comes on, shut the door and let the light time out and then do the same on the next door and so on. If you find the light dosen't come on, then that door switch has a problem and if you don't then all the switches are functioning ok. It's not unknown for there to be a problem with the bonnet switch.

You will find thats the ultrasonic detector, it's happend to me, so i make sure the alarm is off now, the ultrasonics that LR fitted to the D1's can go unstable very easly. A shock sensor will not activate by rocking the vehicle they are designed to filter out that sort of movement and activate at a specific shock frequency but a very hard tap on the glass or a kick on a panel could do it.

The interior light door switches are wired back to the multi-function unit, this part of the MFU may have a problem and believes that a door is open, hence the interior light staying on, the alarm chirping and the wiper not working. Have you removed the vehicles battery and so powered down the systems?

Jacks are filled with Hydraulic Jack Oil not engine oil the trouble is jacks take a different amount depending on the jack and manufacture. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...8107_langId_-1d

You don't have a shock sensor as standard, but it's easy to fit one they only have 3 wires. I have one fitted to another car and it turns on the interior light when the car receives a knock, the alarm system detects volt drop as does the LR system, so turning the light on is detected when the alarm is set and off goes the sounder.

One difference is that Tdi's front springs are handed but the V8's are the same each side.