teabag

Yes, it's because the dash indicator circuit within the flasher relay is faulty.

There are no relays in the main lighting circuit, (the switch takes the load) other than the dim-dip system. Pull the plug from the dim-dip resistor located on the engine bulkhead next to the washer bottle to isolate. The lighting switch and also the multi plug are known to give problems, remove the switch and have a look, it maybe repairable or it not it's a replacement switch. If you wish to carry on using the dim-dip then refit the plug. My sidelights are LED so look a bit naff with the yellowish light of the dim-dip, so my plug is left unplugged.

As above.. most/many 200 series disco's are now in the hands of enthusiast's and into a second life fitted with a lot of replacement parts. U may get a good one and be able to sell on for the price you paid when the 90 is back.

The link below may help, but if not just do a google search like I did. But the correct way to setup your headlights is with a beam setter to manufactures and mot standards. http://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/content169.aspx

So you won't understand pre-amplified outputs and input gains either then, better to go to a ICE shop and let there techie sort things out for u.

Some amps switch off for their own protection if there is a short circuit on an output, then reset when the short is removed which you may be doing when the loudspeaker cable is unplugged.

Most oil companies have a vehicle search here's Castrol's http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7044829

We don't know what your ICE setup is at the moment, so can't say what patch leads you need. Do you have an existing bass speaker in the back door? does the head unit have a pre-amplifer output? it won't be plug and play as the output from the head unit and/or sub amp gain will have to be adjusted.

Click Click to the above.. but then it makes me wonder what he hasn't checked. Every time my disco was returned from a dealer service the hand brake had five clicks to fully on and I then re-ajusted it down to three clicks. Now the disco hasn't been for a dealer service for the last seven years the brake has stayed at three clicks, as I have an auto I don't have to use it for hill starts and only use it when parked so the brake drum is never touched now. My old RR with a similar hand brake stayed at 2 clicks all it's life

As as above, above, there is a connector socket at the lower ends of the windscreen. The wiring the existing on the later D1's so I expect thats so with the D2, you will require a master switch, fuse, two relays as there are two elements (left and right) and as it's a D2 you will need to tell it that it has a heated windscreen now, so u need someone with Testbook or similar. Job done

Not that it matters to any one, but I also use the Halfords stuff in my cooling system and it lasts for five years.

Top up via the thermostat housing plug first, then top up the rad, then the expansion bottle. Run engine till the thermostat opens,stop and let engine go cold and check levels again.

A single button fob is user programable. How to do it has been posted before in the forum, open the bonnet, hold down the switch etc etc.

It's all in the Haynes manual. Track rod ball joint centre to centre 1230mm Drag link ball joint centre to centre 924mm

Just to confirm BogMonster statement that both systems only allow only two programmed fobs. Single button fobs are user programmable even a second hand one, but new two button fobs require Testbook or similar to program them. I believe that s/h two button fobs cannot be re-programmed as you will loose the alarm ecu's i.d. from the fob. Main or some indi LR dealers or people such RemotKey can supply fobs and program them.

Only a few things to check, low fluid level, hand brake not releasing fully or switch sticking on and a brake pad worn down to the sensor wire if this is fitted to your disco.

The sticker on my sunvisor says 1968mm with roof bars 1928mm without. I have been under a 2m car park barrer a few times with out problems.

As above

So your alarm system is still working then, that's good but no sound now just the indecators flashing.

We are not talking 70Ah vehicle batteries, but ie. jell 7Ah sealed batteries used in alarm systems, and in the disco's sounder perhaps a 0.5Ah or 1.0Ah which will normally be made up of six button cells. As we know batteries don't last for ever and there is a rare possiblity with jell cells/batteries the internal structure/plates collapse and short out resulting in over heating, melting and damaging surrounding material/kit if not protected by a fuse. All modern control panels now are multi fused (inputs/outputs)and therefore a battery going faulty will 'pop'the fuse, also with todays battery technology some larger Ah batteries are internally fused so batteries overheating is rare they just fail or blow the fuse signaling "Battery Fail". It did not happen in this disco's case as it was the plug & socket fault that caused a fire.

Why not fit the D2 rear coil springs instead of D1's

The alarm sounder didn't go up in smoke then, just a small fire at the connection terminals caused by loose electrical plug arcing, i'm suprised that a fuse didn't blow them perhaps the sounder isn't fused on a disco. To prevent fires make sure any electrical plug and wiring carrying voltage are sound. I would say that as i'm in the fire detection industry.

I suspect it was the battery overheating and melting and the terminals coming together resulting in the fire. I never never heard of such a thing before with a disco alarm sounder. Although I have seen the result of this thing happening once in a control panel housing sealed batteries.

The bolts are M12x130 and M12x28 two of each required according to my parts catalogue. For connections don't you have a socket behind the panel near the o/s rear light, thats where the lighting connections are made otherwise you will have to cut into the loom.

Drain coolent, remove top hose at housing and then remove dizzy cap. Spanner/socket an 11mm will fit.