teabag

You have worked hard, it looks great. Well Done!

What u should have for a 1997 D1 is ERR5209 distributor and RTC5089 2pin module (which is no longer available) or STC1184 3 pin module

It appears that it is not your lock giving you a problem, but either the operating rods and levers or the central locking actuator. You will have to take the door card off and check that these two area's are operating correctly first. There is a problem sometimes of a broken spring within the lock it's self, the symptom is the the door pin does not pop up fully.

A bit more on fobs, alarms and codes http://www.remotekey.co.uk/

Did u synchronize the fob with the alarm after fitting the battery. A LR dealer will give you EKA code other than that look at this link. http://forums.lr4x4.com/lofiversion/index.php/t86.html And welcome to the forum

what type of disco do u have? Anyway have look at this link http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/land-ro...y/discoveryindx

You can charge a car battery on a 1mm cable, ie just like a small battery charger uses, the question is what cable to use when drawing or supplying a current. Forget voltage drop, 12 volts going through a 50 metres of thin alarm cable will still be 12 volts at the end. If you intend to install two batteries in parallel the use the same grade of cable that is used for connecting the existing battery (as stated by landmannnn above) the link below shows the common grades available. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...atterycable.php

Yes Brian

The interior light has a faulty switch, it's only a sliding brass contact that is not making contact with the terminal.

There are no replacement parts shown in my LR parts book for the compressor. So looks like a repair by replacement job.

The red led (CATS indicator) is to warn potential thieves that your unit is protected by a computer anti-theft system. The indicator at the bottom right hand of the volume control flashes whenever the starter switch is turned off. The light can be either activated or deactivated by pressing and holding the BND button for approx three seconds. The vehicle alarm/immobiliser LED is between the speedo and rev counter.

There are two types of tow bar, but try bolt M12 x 130. If you are buying a towing kit then the nuts and bolts come as standard.

Ok, the bell housing plug is fitted into the hole thats at the bottom and in the centre of the bell housing flange where it bolts onto the engine. On the L/H/S look to the front, you will see a hole in the flange the same size as the plug thats where the plug screws into when not in use. Well that was LR's intention. If you are lucky you may find a plug located there.

It's called a Vacuum tank (a ball with a pipe in and one out) and used inconjunction with the heating system up to VIN LA067123. You can position it anywhere in the engine bay. As per Ivan above the heater flaps are controlled by vacuum.

Kevenr.. Your 3.9 dose not have a wading plug in the timing cover thats only diesels, and if you have an auto (which most ES's are) you don't have one on the bell housing either. So if you do have an auto, ignore the previous info above, they may be already be plugged.

You have tried everything. Are the four wheels braking if one is not, or not fully, because the caliper/piston is sticking then that would give you the problem. Are all the pads the same thickness. What happened just before you had the problem have you changed something that could be related or did it just appear. There's not much left is there.

If your only getting 14mpg 'average' from a 3.9 engine there's something wrong somewhere. I get 18mpg 'average' and therefore that means i'm getting sometimes 20 mpg on a run which I could better if I went a bit slower. LPG is not for me.

May be, my D1 was/is wired for additional spot lamps the plugs are behind the grill infront of the rad, may be tucked up under the slam panel. The relay was added as part of the installation of the lamps and is fitted in the loom located by the engine fuse box.

Are they the ones that cover the nuts/holes the the tie-down rings screw into

First of all get your self a Haynes service/repair manual for the disco that will help you out with these 'little' probs. Your problems at the moment 'could be' ignition switch faulty and the CL master actuator in the drivers door faulty. There's lots of info on alarms not functioning in various forums that's a common problem.

Or the 300 series as some had the rear lamp/indicator in the two locations at the rear as does my disco, any top lamp with the four bulb holders will do the job. Rear/stop lamps, indicator, reverse and fog. The wiring may be existing, but that depends on what LR were up to at the time of building the vehicle as we all know

This issue is running on this forum http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=137332

The only information about the MOT and catalyst converter I have been able to find, is of the date from which a cat test should be carried out on a vehicle and nothing on the fitment of a cat to a vehicle. ie. "The catalyst test is part of the MOT test for most class IV spark ignition petrol engined passenger cars with four or more wheels first used on and after 1 August 1992". Copied from this site http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_730.htm Just as nicedayforit said.

Hi discodave, your disco has electronic ignition fitted, so do wish to replace it ?

RU Are you using the correct grade of engine oil ? This post has been edited by BogMonster: Yesterday, 08:43 PM Reason for edit: Edited to remove "txt spk"!! Sorry BogMonster will not happen again, Onest Can I take it that you will correct my spelling mistakes as well regards