Warthog

Hey Si, Could you recommend a "Shipping Agent" for importing? Cheers

I prefer the fibre backed option, think they are a little more versatile and cheaper. http://www.rightlines.ltd.uk/Zirconium-Fibre-Backed-Sanding-Discs.aspx Rightlines are a good place to start

Are you saying, Tube is stronger than Solid Bar of the same material?

Are you looking for "Dimple Dies" ? Heres a thread that was started awhile back. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25517&st=0&p=256519&hl=Dimple%20Die&fromsearch=1entry256519

The standard intercooler (300Tdi) always gets full of crud and i never get all of it out when cleaning. So its effectivness cant be that good. Performance on road isnt my first priority, so i was thinking. Would replacing the intercooler with a straight through pipe be a dumb option? Any comments/options welcome Mark

O.k Steve, just let me know if he is interested. Not sure on the next trip to JJ's? But End of May, beggining of June would be the Earliest. He's still in the "SandBox"

Well i got it up and running to day, had a bit of a play. Then decided that its not for me, on my 90. The 90's use is fun. IMO This H14 PTO is outta place on my truck. If i had a 110 tow vehicle, this winch would definatly go on it. Piece of mind, if your toy gets stuck. This thing will drag, your truck and half the forest back if needed. So if anyone fancy a H14 PTO, its back up for grabs at a reasonable price. Cheers for the response's

If you have some pictures of the the PTO mod, that would be good. I cant get my head around how to "Clock" the unit yet. So have come up with options to guard it. There's no point in trying "Drive assist" then? I sat today, Cider in hand and wieghed up the pro's and cons. The 8274, yet stock. Will do most things, but work allday continous. Whereas the PTO is a workhorse and go allday. From a stock 8274, in comparison what would you say the line speed rates under load were like? Cheers Mark

O.k, So i picked up a PTO H14 last year and now have been looking at getting it on the front of my 90. Offered it up in the standard superwinch bumper and ran the PTO shafts upto winch. Damn its Huge and low slung and protrude a silly amount forward. Theres no way i want to run it like it is, so have had ideas of moving it up a couple of inches in back as far possible. Intentions are to remove the front crossmember and modify it to allow the PTO shaft to run through it. This is a compromise, but it will give me some of the approach angle back. But am i gonna be doing all this and not really getting any benefit over the stock 8274 im running? Cheers Mark

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Twin-Streetfighter-Dominator-Headlights-Black-Bandit-SV_W0QQitemZ370195804593QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item563163b1b1 Anygood?

Binzel get my vote. Used and abused at work for the last 10years. Have a good range of liners, elctrodes and shrouds types avail too. Have found them on ebay every so often, at good prices.

Purchased a widetrack (disc braked) Sankey from Whithams over a year ago. Very useful and stable behind my 90 and Discovery and RRC. Would go for the disc braked options, less maintenance and makes for good braking when loaded. Wired a standard trailer socket into the original wiring and works a treat. To make life easier, make sure the lamps are single pole not double pole. Just makes life easier on having the same lamps as used by your truck. Check that the rear legs go down and that the Jockey wheel is in good nick. Paid £350 for mine, worth every penny. http://www.mod-sales.com/

Read your post in the Discovery section of his Forum. I shall have a look today. Cheers

Will check the Clutch comparison tommorow.Pretty sure it didnt make a differance though. The knock is more noticable from the exhaust manifold side of the engine, if that helps? Cheers

Hi, Fired up the engine of a 300Tdi Disco today and there is a significant heavy knocking coming from the engine at idle. The knocking at around the 1500 became considerably less. Theres no significant smoke on start up, or if driven upto 50mph. The oil light doesnt stay on either (oil pressure issue?) The knock does not disappear when up to temperature when at idle. The engine hasnt been run for a good year. The oil and coolant levels are fine. Im assuming big-end bearing problem, as the worst case scenerio. Where and what should i start checking before the looking at the the big-end bearings? Cheers

PM me, if this is what you looking for? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34135&view=&hl=indexa seiki&fromsearch=1 ATB Mark

JD2 Model 3 with "Bend Tech" software http://www.tubela.com/ are sole suppliers i believe of the JD2 and helpful too.

Damn, and there was me thinking i had the only one

Do insa do a 35" Tyre now? Are you re-gearing for 35"'s, Axles or an Auto with an early 110 Tranfer maybe? I assume your are gonna adjust the castor angle upfront for the lift? You mentioned you wanted good road manners, the steering can be a bit wooly without some adjustment. ATB Mark

The stock LR90 Springs standard hieght NRC 9446 is at 15.19" The 110HD NRC9448 is at 15.31" (the size im running) So basically im running no lift. Especially when i have the added wieght of Cage and winches. Couple Images of the set-up i have. Something i would add, is i had yellow HDbritpart springs for a week or two with the GL set-up. They were very stiff and unforgiving. ATB Mark

You dont need to lift your truck to run tyres upto 33's This could save you £££'s on castor corrected radius arms or Swivels upfront. The saving could warrant the OLD MAN EMU option? Im running a Gywn Lewis set-up with "Rough Country" shocks. Using LR NRC9448 Springs with 235/85R16 Insa Special Trak. The rear tyres will rub on the inner archs at max. However there isnt much more movement in the rear upper 3 link joint (on axle) at this point. Im running the wide angle rear prop from Gywn too. But hav'nt seen the need for one on the front. Hope this helps, all i have metioned is what im running and it works Drives reasonable too, trips to Kirton have demonstrated that. ATB Mark

Surely there must be something from the HGV/Agricultural industry that can be sourced? Any recommendations? Cheers for any replies Mark

Cheers Mike, I have this type of isolator in cab. However my thoughts to use this type of isolator externally, made me think that it would be a little too vulnarable for external use? I considered a emergency stop/reset button type configuration would best suit an external kill switch set-up? Mark

Hi, Just getting around to wiring in external isolators for the winches. Now need to consider an external kill switch for the engine. What set-up is considered correct to pass scutineering/safety requirements? Is isolation of the fuel pump solenoid the right way to go on a 300Tdi? Cheers Mark

5 litres of WD40 and a spray gun? Works for me