Warthog

Finished this one today ATB Mark

The 4.2 v8 in my RRC has started running at high revs on start up and when idle. It will calm down after awhile but something just aint right. Where shall i start checking to try and sort the problem out? It has an LPG kit on it but it runs the same on Petrol or Gas Cheers for any help, Mark

Crosiere Blanche last year, we were instructed to put them on the rear. But this made the truck a bit of a nightmare. As it would have a tendancy to not steer too well (like having a the rear locker in) with or with centre difflock in. Front is the best bet or both front and rear Thats my two penneth

Welded a 10mm bolt to the casing as you are suggesting, worked perfectly well. But the motor wont get the most out of your winch though, 2.5Hp power output aint that good. The Champion winch motor may be a cheap investment, and lay the old motor to rest

anygood, for inspiration?

Had a pair of these: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/PowerGlove-Me...-SSP900L-Sealey Pretty nifty for camping. But not cheap enough to ruin working on the truck.

These? Meduim Duty gloves http://www.spectrumsafety.net/mm5/merchant...e=Cutprotection Or the thinner type for dexterity http://www.spectrumsafety.net/mm5/merchant...=Nitrile_Gloves

Well, here's what i usually have on hand Most of the kit i take with me, is non branded tools from Sort outs, Aldi/Lidls etc. At the end of the day, if the tool works and gets you away again, Job done If others add too it, could make a good concise tool kit list? Tools: 1/4" Socket Set 1/2" Socket Set 6,8,10,13,15,17,19,24,30,36mm Open end/ring type spanner 6" 8" & 12" Ajustable Spanner 9/16" Spanner and Socket (prop shaft) Propshaft Tool (But there are ways if you hav'nt got one) Allen Keys Hub Spanner Mole Grips Long nose Pliers Copper/Hide Mallet Ball & Pein Hammer Posi Drive and Flat end screw drivers Circlip pliers Bit of copper bar Small Punch Chisel Pry Bar (Tyre Iron) Knife Hacksaw Torch/Headtorch Multimeter Bottle Jack A bit of tube to stick over the end of spanners etc X-Eng halfshaft widget type thingy maggoo Bottle/Can Opener Consumables: Lockwire (Good for holding up exhaust or bit that are dangling) Gaffer Tape Loctite Theadlocker Loctite Liquid Gasket High Temp Silicon Hose tape Jubillee clips (Lockwire has sufficed) Various bits of pipe for the odd ripped brake line (mostly old hydrualic pipe) WD40 Ratchet Straps Paracord 10mm Studding Electrical wire and fuses Insulation Tape Gear Oil Coolant Spares: The list could be endless! Always have for a trip: Shock Wheelbearing Halfshafts CV's Props (old one,s but will get me home) Lamps Fuses Air Compressor Tyre Sealant (Linseal, 2 ltrs) RAC Card There is off course stuff i have missed, but hey ho! A kelly kettle/matches for a cuppa also can be handy......... Mark

Got a couple of good toys 12" Chainsaw Rather bright LED Torch

Polycarbonate is the toughest transparent plastic available, with good mechanical strength in a temperature range of -100 - +120 degrees Celsius. The impact resistance of Polycarbonate is 15 - 20 times higher than that of Acrylic sheet, making it ideal for machine guarding and safety items like helmets and eye protection. Polycarbonate is also ideal for roofing and greenhouses. Polycarbonate is also known as Lexan or Makrolon. Acrylic is a rigid, transparent, thermoplastic material. Naturally colourless and exceptionally clear, it can be pigmented to obtain a wide range of tints and colours with almost unlimited scope in varying light transmission and diffusion. It is inert to many corrosive chemicals (subject to annealing) and has light transmission properties and resistance to weathering which are unrivalled by many other plastic materials. A wide variety of industrial and artistic processes can be used to machine, fabricate or shape acrylic sheet. Acrylic is also referred to as Perspex, Plexiglas or Lucite.

I have one similair design for up for grabs (link below) Not as trick as Saleys. But it will do the job http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...=Round+Fairlead

Im no expert, have seen it used on a couple of old Porche and VW gearbox mounts to good success. Well the gearbox is under the car and working. However when i had a go, its no easy thing to get right, my attempt certainly would be classed as a bodge. Didnt use a blowtorch though, Oxy/Acet was used with a nice thin nossle and the torch. Some old gearboxes etc were made out of such carp alluminium that using this type of practice can be your best bet. Especially if its the differance between using a part or stumping up £££'s I have seen a few attempts to weld with a dissimiliar alley rods and the out come was useless.

Best discs i have used, to date. Only place i have found them is on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TYROLIT-CLASSIC-115m...A1%7C240%3A1318

Stumbled upon this Ebay trader: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Engine-Replica-w-v-c...1742.m153.l1262 They seem to be able to order different models of Engine and Transmission?

Heres a coping calculator and template site: http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi Hope this helps, have used it several times and makes life easier Mark

Try going left to right (Pushing) and take a little bit more time on the runs. As the plant isnt your own, then like you said its probably been abused abit Hope that helps? http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/impro...our-skills/mig/ Some nice video clips on the link above

Wire feed is high and the amps look to be low, on the pictures. Gas difuser maybe shot or blocked, or the torch has a leak somewhere. Maybe the torch could do with once over? Which way were you running the weld, pushing or pulling? I have always been led to believe pulling the weld on Mig is acceptable up to about 3mm as the penetration can will suffer at and above that sort of thickness?

This miller site has some good tutorials on Mig Basics: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/basicMIG/index.htm

This may help? http://www.boltscience.com/pages/info.htm Mark

This may help? http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/a...nt/inverter.asp

Blade life expectancy will depend on how you treat it. On steel at work one a month is common, but thats daily meduim duty use. So say, 20 cuts aday 31 days = 620 cuts

Purchased one today, build quality is good. Yet to try it though, looks identical to the Makita one i use at work. £89.99 seems to be a fair price for it too? Usually use a Soluable oil based coolant or WD40, i know they say you dont need coolant. But IMHO think you can extend the TCT blade life using it on Ferrous materials. The blades retail at 75 to 100 squidoo's, but last a good amount of time. Mark

Theres one up for grabs at a bargain price in the forsale section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry316593

Yeah not bad turnout considering the weather. I like the idea of the agricultural spares, and vintage jumble too. Look forward to the next one, would dare say there will be alot more attending?