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After freeing up with WD-40, what needs to happen is that you put a lubricant onto everything that will stay. The WD-40 evaporates and then you get back to the same problem.

The tops do not have skins. They are solid aluminum.

Seeing as all of the gauges and all of the switches in a Defender are Lucas, I highly doubt they got the senders from Smiths.

Using metric fasteners for the crown wheel (12 mm bolts versus 1/2") does not affect the strength, which is the discussion here. The crown wheel and pinion are never upgraded when people build up Dana 60s in the US. They install a locker with side gears designed for the larger shafts and put in larger shafts. The stuff that is there in a stock Salisbury is the same and just as strong.

I agree, the spring looks broken from this photo. Take some photos from further back.

Actually, it is exactly the same. It is a Dana 60, made by Dana. The only difference is metric bolting and the bearings. The ones in US trucks normally use 2 pinion diffs stock and 27 or 30 spline shafts. 24 spline is about mid way between 27 and 30. It is fairly straightforward to change to any Dana 60 differential. The complicated part in a salisbury axle is going up to 35 spline, simply because nobody is mass producing the conversion parts. For a "Dana 60", these parts are very common. In any case, if you stay with 24 spline chrome moly axles, the diff will be unbreakable and the shafts, which are much easier to change, are the weak points. If you go with a P38, pretty much anything could break even if you spend a lot more to upgrade the R&P and have it pinned. If you just stay with the stock R&P, unpinned, it will be much weaker than the shafts.

Has nobody ever left that little island and seen the world? It is hard to believe this is even a discussion. The Rover diff center has been in use since the 50s. The Dana 60 center has been in use as long. Both have been built up and broken a million times. The 60 center is extremely common for use in off road builds. It is proven for decades to be bullet proof with 35 spline chrome moly axles and you would not blink using it with 42" tires and any amount of horsepower. Most are happy to go to 40 spline and that is a decent strength balance. 35 spline is 180% the strength of 24 spline and 40 spline is 273%. With the best, newest aftermarket Rover R&P and pinning, you can make it about the same strength as 24 spline.

You are completely and totally incorrect. The ring and pinion on a Salisbury is larger diameter, thicker and hypoid. It is a good three times stronger than any Rover ring and pinion. The differential case is much larger and ANY differential will be at least double the strength of any Rover differential. You can comfortably run up to 40 spline chrome moly halfshafts before the halfshaft become stronger than any part of the differential center or ring and pinion. This is undebateable fact. There are hundreds of thousands, if not millions of Dana 60s in use and they are very common for heavily built off road trucks. The P38 is worse than a normal Rover center with the short pinion.

You are doing something wrong. I have the same setup with an aftermarket tank and sender. There is no issue. Everything was originally Lucas. If you are sure it is in right, return the sender and get a replacement.

Adding a P38 axle will give you a weaker axle and cost you a LOT more money, no matter have much you hand over to Nigel.

No. That is incorrect. You do not seem to understand what is going on. Putting in a locker to a Salisbury does not make it weaker.

This is quite wrong. The entire center is many times stronger than a Rover center. The crown wheel and pinion and any differential you can install. You will never break it. No matter how much money you put into a Rover center, it will never be even half the strength of the Salisbury center. The halfshafts are the same size as on Rover axles, BUT the stock ones are a lot stronger than what LR used in the Rover axles. You can also upgrade these to chrome moly. It makes zero sense to get rid of the Salisbury. Put in a Truetrac or a Detroit locker and Ashcroft shafts and you are good to go. The P38 short nose is a crappy design. In addition to what you would have spent on the Salisbury, you will need a new propshaft and then it will still be able to have a R&P failure at any time.

The low fuel light is activated by a hidden electronic module. It uses the fuel sender signal. Don't worry about that light for now. Green is power to the gauge. Green/Blue should be the wire that goes to the sender from the gauge. If it always reads full, you probably have this signal wire shorting out to ground somewhere. At the sender, one wire goes to ground and the other connects to the Green/Blue wire from the gauge. It should not matter which.

For a 90 side tank? Something is not right. It should not need adjusting and should pin the gauge both high and low. You have either a bad sender or are installing it wrong. are you sure it is wired correctly?

It has nothing to do with the driver. It is the vehicle. It should not be so unstable.

The whole needing to have someone spot on such easy terrain is embarrassing. Either there is very little compression travel on that suspension of the air system is preventing the travel from being used. The two wheels holding up the vehicle should be compressed to near the bump stops if it was setup correctly. I thought these were supposed to have more travel than the existing models.

That is a link to the same switch I showed. My link was the manufacturer's page which shows all of the options and includes the installation instructions and wiring diagrams.

What do you mean "they do not fit"? There are lots of different lengths of shocks. If you are 550 mm at normal ride height, you have a big lift and would want longer than stock shocks or a lower shock mount.

G - Switched +12V LGB - Washer pump ULG - Low speed wipe RLG - High speed wipe NLG / WG - Wiper motor park B - Ground

If you perceive something to be what it is not, you are brainwashed.

First off, you need to put a bit of effort into this or it won't work out. You are the one who wants a custom setup. You need to understand it and make sure it is implemented properly. There are versions in 12 and 24 volt and with different connectors. https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/datasheets/switches/windshield-wiper-switches/littelfuse-switches-electronic-windshield-wiper-switches-datasheet.pdf I could be wrong, but I don't think the wiper switch and connectors changed from when they went from an intermittent relay to ECU control. The plug that goes into the harness should be the same as the original without intermittent and you tie in there, byassing the intermittent part of the existing system.

I disagree. It has not been British in my mind for 26 years. Do you think a Mini is British? Your mind is stuck in the past.

How? It is an Indian company. It has not been a British company for 26 years.

Umm, I gave it to you. No wire cutting required. Disconnect existing switch and run wires from new switch to connector.

Come to Canada. You can drive on ice and snow for 8 months of the year. You will lose your excitement quickly.