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Everything posted by Red90

  1. That is not how I read it. His description is quite vague. All you are looking at is the toe, so the line from the front tyres to the rear is all that matters.
  2. Sounds like you have toe in. You should have toe out.
  3. You need to get the wiring diagram and check for the fault. I would probably first look at the ground for the flasher relay.
  4. The computer controls the alternator. Yes, when it drops to 12.6, the alternator is off. Here in the land of winter, new cars go through battery in 2 to 3 years. Before they started this silly alternator control, you would get 10 years.
  5. AGM are better from physical damage, but they are no better as a "battery". Cycle life and sulfudation resistance is worse than a properly built flooded battery. Unless you "need" one do to hard off road use, they are a waste of money. The problem with modern cars and I'm sure the D4 is no exception is that they turn the alternator off as much as possible with the goal of saving fuel. It kills batteries.
  6. It won't have a manual. Their plan is to have every electronic gizmo conceivable and they are too hard to integrate with a manual. There will be no attempt to sell this as a working vehicle.
  7. Red90

    1988 90 Brakes

    If you are getting new calipers, get the later ones. This makes it easier to get pads and such in the future and makes sure you are getting the larger pistons. You can fit rear discs. There are a few writeups on the forum on what to do.
  8. Manual version? There won't be one of those.
  9. Red90

    1988 90 Brakes

    On the wide hubs (pre-300TDI) vented calipers hit the hubs and do not fit without modification.
  10. There is a one valve valve built into the lift pump. If it see any dirt, it gets stuck open and the fuel drains back to the tank when off. It is quite common, especially if you do not have a sedimenter.
  11. Lift pump check valve or a leak somewhere.
  12. Yes, I know..... But if you follow that advice on a RHD, you will have a bad tilt. RHD Defenders are best with even springs side to side. LHD need different springs as they are more unbalanced. as everything is on the left.
  13. If you put the longer spring on the right, you will have a tilted truck. The engine and gearbox are offset to the left. If you are heavier than the engine and don't have passengers, you might offset the tilt...... IMO, a better solution for a fat owner with a RHD truck is to use the same springs on both sides. Going long on the right is way too much.
  14. Long ones on the left side to counteract the offset position of the engine.
  15. Really, if you are looking for approvals for commercial production, you are going to need a engineer to stamp the design regardless of how many off the shelf parts you use.
  16. Just take a hubs (and spindle) from any old Rover. Easy to find a Disco at the junkyard or just buy new.
  17. Here is a link to the wiring diagram. Page 47.1 http://duud.ee/LR-manualid/300Tdi_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf
  18. 300TDI era trucks do not have a brake light check function. Earlier trucks did have a check relay. Both the low level switch and the park brake switch are directly connected to the lights. The switches switch to ground.
  19. If it is not the hubs, something is broken in the axle.
  20. I would more likely suspect bad wiring than the thermostat. I use a Stant 45779.
  21. Airlift does not even know what the kit is meant to go in. They list the kit as fitting 110s and 90s. https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/61724/ I talked with their tech support about it and they had no clue that there was a difference.
  22. Cool optical illusion. Pull it apart. No need to ask for permission. If it not your cup of tea, send it to Nigel. It looks in bad shape and will need parts if it is salvageable.
  23. I'm confused as to the photo. An Ashcroft ATB does not have bevel gears. It is a Torsen design with worms gears.
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