nicksmelly

Checked the resistors going to pin 31 which are R3 and R6. The resistances were correct at 50k and 10k. Also checked the voltage regulator U5 and it is giving 4.87v, which i suppose is close enough. Definitely got 12.1v going in to R3 and the bottom of R6 is going to ground. What errant voltages can I have at the boot loader pins?

The 20v was with the engine stopped. I then plugged it in to a very stable 50A digital bench PSU with the voltage set to 12v and it was showing 18.22v in megatune.

Pertronix

Why not give Tiagoc a price for his metric +2" braided hoses rather than sulking...

20/50 oil and filters are cheap. I used to change the oil every 4000 miles.

All the sensor earths go to the ECU, then the earths from ECU go to the battery, which is earthed to chassis and body all at the same point. Yes, I should try and get a stimulator... but tonight I am going to use a variable pot to simulate temperatures and see how it responds. But how can the ECU show 20.2V?

Hello. Have had Megasquirt in the Discofairy now for a couple of months, but not driven the car much at all... maybe a couple of hundred yards. All seemed to be going very well, and the engine ran like a sewing machine, and with the modifications we did, it revved like a motorbike. On Wednesday evening we readied ourselves for a Tunerstudio auto tune session.... but before we set off, it was running rough as a rough thing... which I put down to Nige's overly rich basic map. I reduced the required fuel by 10% and we attempted to go for a drive, but it was coughing and spluttering and we only managed a mile or so before we had to go home, not only due to engine running badly, but the rear diff pinion bearing collapsed for no apparent reason. I can't blame megasquirt for that. Take plugs out and they are sooted up, so gave them a good clean and it still ran rough. So, anyway, today i am sitting in the Discofairy trying to work out what is wrong, and notice that the MAT gauge is flickering down to about -20 oC and as it does it, the engine temp gauge has a flutter, and so does the MAP gauge. I tested the MAT sensor with my DMM and it appears to be fine with the resistances correct, dropping as I warm the sensor. I check the wiring to MAT and all is well. Give it a good wiggling and it doesn't change. Checked ALL at MS end. All the earths go back to battery box and are terminated well. Tried Tunerstudio again and gauges still fluttering up and down randomly. I check battery voltage with DMM and it is 12.22V with engine not running. Change dashboard gauge to show engine voltage and it is showing 18.7V. Reset everything and it is showing 20.2V. Buggeration... I'm going to wire MS up out of car and use pot to simulate temperatures and see whats occurring, but has anyone got any ideas? Nick

ADAC Recovery

More unreliable than a Rover V8... go and pull the other one.

The 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 have the same bore size = same thin cylinder walls.

TBH, i'd be looking at a modern V8 like a Lexus LS400, or a BMW 4.4 V8, both of which you can often get for less than £500. To rebuild any Rover V8 with the intention of power gains you are looking at a lot more than £500 on top of the cost of the engine, and then you are probably nowhere near the 286bhp of either the Lexus or the BMW.

Got engine in and running great on Megasquirt. But we have a problem with the rev counter in the racer. We are using the instruments from a V8 discovery and have the tacho wire from the instruments on the W terminal of the alternator, but the rev counter is reading double what it should. Not sure how to correct that, so was thinking about running the rev counter from an output from the MS. Is this possible?

I still go with air lock, probably at the back of the inlet manifold. Top hose is getting hot as the water in the heads is turning to steam, pressurising the system and the header tank pukes.

I didn't know insurance covered engine failures? Crashes, accidents, fire, theft - Yes. What insurance do you have that covers mechanical breakdown?

That was great... I'm thinking of LS400 engine in the Discovery next. Is this a pre 1997 engine without the VVTi? Nick

They are 3/8th BSP in to the radiator and a funny thread in to the oil cooler pipes... and no, not soldered.

I have a Britpart 3.9 auto radiator in my Discovery. It is Ok. Brass and copper and soldered well. But... don't forget to take the oil cooler adaptors out of the old radiator before you take it to the scrap yard to weigh it in, as the new rad doesn't come with them.

Try RPi. I know they supply the J & P set with some of their cam kits.

I've used these and they do not go soggy or grow. http://www.screwfix.com/p/ansell-chemical-resistant-gloves/20789 £2.16

Carplan alloy wheel silver is very bright and silvery.

If you are thinking of a stuffing gland type gland, then i'd go with a 25mm. If it is just a rubber grommet, a 20mm will do. I've just used a 20mm grommet through the bulkhead for all the engine bay side wires, and that was with the loom in braided sleeving.

Cable ties direct

Are you using a Peltor intercom, or just the helmet and an adaptor to link to the Handheld? I've never used VOX on the GP340, but have used the peltor FL9MQ to link to a Maxon using a remote PTT. Could it be anything to do with the noise reduction of the helmet? I think Peltor helmets use antinoise noise reduction. If so, it might be feeding back too much antinoise causing the feedback you hear. Wikipedia

Me too x 3.