Jump to content

TD5 power

Settled In
  • Posts

    177
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TD5 power

  1. hi mobyone can you explain how in a 4 stroke engine the camshaft rotates faster than the crankshaft? aragorn i have very little knowledge of superchargers but my understanding is they are basically a pump that will move a certain amount of air for every revolution providing pressures stay the same. so bowie69 is right in that the output is linear ignoring the losses, pressure will increase only with the use of a charger that changes its output relative to RPM. Why cant it generate 1 bar pressure at idle? though not sure it would be a good thing if it did Matt
  2. hi But taking on all kinds of work just makes it a much more interesting though:D lackham is doing ok for itself but with the current principle i dont know how much longer for, she has no intrest in engineering and sees it as a very expensive course to run but there are some good lecturers there who will fight to keep it so there is hope. Matt
  3. hi im afraid they do a little more than that now, they are one of the best for Ag engineering in the country they are giving up on the horsey stuff though too expensive or something. Wiltshire college has a place up at castle combe circuit for motorsport so most of their tig stuff is up there. i just had a look on their website they are running basic welding courses at lackham but you would need to phone them to find out if they would run a TIG specific course. im not sure about the "Cut yer way in,weld yer way out" Ag mechanics comment. Just because a lot of our work is more suited to arc or mig doesn't mean we are butchers or something. Matt
  4. hi try spraying some penetrating oil on the UJs as if they seize up can make the steering heavy matt
  5. hi If your talking about wiltshire college I didn't know trowbridge even had a welding shop , try getting on a course at Lackham or castle combe they were running courses there last year in the evenings but i don't know about now as the lecturer left. i was a student there doing engineering for 3 yrs they only had 3 tig sets but i believe there are more at castle combe for the motorsport lot, us ag lot only need big mig and stick welders . matt
  6. hi my 90 with 2.5td engine would do 27mpg just about every where, it was noisy and never let me down but did require a lot of heat to get it going from cold. it's now being replaced with a 200tdi so my advice would be to try and source a good 200 tdi matt
  7. hi what condition is the land that the seals runs on, if it is scored then what every you do the new seals will leak. The other option is there any play in the pinion bearings as this will shorten the life of the seals. HTH matt
  8. hi i would still call 13.7v a little low as a general rule a good alternator should be 14.2v at 1500 rpm i would check that the body of the alternator has a good contact with the block as this is the earth path. you could check by using a jump lead from the alternator body to the negative battery terminal, if the reading goes up then you've got a bad earth either on the alternator to engine or the earth strap from the transfer box to the chassis. Matt
  9. hi speed is good but is not much use without some torque as well:D it took me a long time to work out how to choose the pump and motor, i don't know how far you've got here's the method i used i hope its of some use: i started by asking what i wanted the winch to do in terms of line speed and pull, after that you already know what gear ratios are in the winch and the drum size so can work out what input you need into the winch to get your target performance. Then get your hands on a motor brochure and start looking for one that fits, a specification your going to have to choose is the system pressure in general a higher pressure gives more power but less speed so its a compromise. Once you have a possible motor you can look at pumps, taking into consideration what engine speed you would like it to be most efficient at and the system pressure you chose earlier. From your posts i assume you already have a pump which will narrow your motor choice. I have a spread sheet to help with calculations if you post up winch specs, engine speed and pressure then i am happy to run the numbers through if it would help. HTH Matt
  10. hi my final year project for college was to design a hydraulic winch, when i was looking at pump drive i compared v belts, crank driven and from the transfer box. i found it would be possible to get belts to work however as you've noted above it would end up stressing existing components not designed for that type of load, from the transfer box would work well but you would have to be very carefull with pump motor combination to retain any useful drive assist. so i went for a crank drive system but designed for a defender with lots of space also including a clutch because not many pumps will take kindly to being spun at full engine rpm. Matt
  11. hi to answer your questions to check the UJ joints block the front wheels and release the hand brake, then under the truck get hold of both sides of the joint and try to twist and move them, your trying to look and feel for any movement between the two halves, any movement requires a replacement UJ. the other joint is the sliding one between the two halves of the prop shaft testing is similar just grab the two halves and try and feel for any free play between them, an excessive amount requires a new prop. A lift will put increased stress on the UJs and shorten their lifespan, a seized uj will fairly quickly disintegrate and you end up with lots of freeplay. i think youve probably got a more serious problem than ujs though i hope not. I don't think your far off with the rear diff, one or both of your pinion shaft bearings may have collapsed and when your on the over run it is forcing the pinion out of mesh with the crown wheel. It will show up as lots of play on the shaft going into the diff and if you drain the oil there will be lots of metal bits in there. If you update your profile with a location someone may be able to pop by and offer some advise. HTH Matt
  12. hi just thinking if its for the series in your avatar could you bring the drive shaft under the rad and then mount the pump where you have more space matt
  13. hi It depends on how you are judging how hot the weld is, if you completed two welds side by side under the same conditions but one using pure co2 and the other an argon co2 mix when the penetration is tested the co2 weld would have significantly more. Both gasses are more than suitable for the application as the welder is limited to dip transfer due to power, however if it had 200A then spray transfer would be possible and argon co2 mix would be much better as i think roguevogue was referring to. Bishbosh has a very good point about preheating the joint Matt
  14. hi is the noise only when the clutch is depressed? if so it will be the thrust bearing gone and will require a new clutch Have you been off road recently and maybe got a bit of mud stuck in one of the wheels Matt
  15. hi pure CO2 will give you the hottest weld possible with the most penetration, increasing the percentage of argon in the mix will give you a neater cleaner weld but also slightly colder. I would have thought its very close to the capacity of your welder, if you've got a mate down the road with a bigger welder you could use then i reckon that would be a better choice for recovery points. Matt
  16. hi as far as i'm aware the ncb from direct line should be valid for all companies, I have had good experience with adrian flux my 90TD was £1200 with 1 yr ncb and i was only 18 i think it was norwich union, some people on here have not had good service from adrian flux but i will be asking them for a quote when my 90 is back on the road fully rebuilt. When i bought my 90 i had a good look round it and there were bits that would need work but the important bits looked solid. However after a couple of months it appeared the previous owner had applied waxy oil and paint in vast enough quantities to cover up the fact the rear of the chassis was shot. The truck is now going through a complete rebuild with new chassis, 200TDI etc although this isn't a bad thing as i plan to keep it for a long time, i could have probably avoided it by looking harder when i bought it and asking why it was nicely painted under there? good maintenance/ trying to hide something. so the point of my general rambling when looking at a truck check the chassis then check it again, if its good and so is the bulkhead most other bits can be sorted relatively easily. The TD engine in mine was good, once it was running was a nice truck to drive however it needed 20 seconds on the heater plugs when cold. If you can find a good one then it wasn't too expensive to insure and did a consistent 27mpg checked over 6000 miles and only gave up when the slave cylinder failed and killed the clutch. matt
  17. hi it is possible but i would suggest starting with easier to check items first, pull the rocker cover off and check the valve clearances making sure the little caps that sit on top of the valve stems are still in place as these can go missing increasing the tappet clearance giving a tapping/ rattling sound. Matt
  18. hi land rover never made reduction gears for production vehicles, their special vehicles department may have made one or two "one off" vehicles so parts won't be available. There was an after market company that made kits to convert land rover axles but i can't remember who it was. So it is possible but you would have to get an engineering shop to make them up for you at high cost, it would probably be easier to fit unimog or volvo axles under your vehicle. Matt
  19. hi how long has the petrol been in the tank? May be worth trying to run it out a can of known good fuel just to try it, ive got an old tractor that is very picky over fuel quality. When the fuels gone off, i believe it takes on loads of water as its quite a large metal tank with not a lot of fuel in it, it makes no attempt to run but flush the system and put some fresh in there and she'll fire straight up. good luck finding the problem matt
  20. sorry i thought you were referring to the welding current output type as the only welder to have AC out is some tig sets my mistake:ph34r: I only used an inverter set (murex Tig set up for arc) for a short time at college. It could produce good results however ive spent a fair amount of time with oil cooled units so i may be a little biased, i believe there is little to choose between them. with 160 amps on a land rover chassis i think you'll be blowing holes, its only 3mm thick depending on what and where is being welded i would go for 2.5 (90amps) or 3.2(120amps) rods as a rough guide. Try on an off cut first and adjust to suit your style and the job. Matt
  21. hi as has been mentioned before i would have the injectors out and get them pop tested, they basically just connect the injector up to a hand pump and pressurise it until it fires noting the pressure and the shape of the spray as well as any drips before it fires. If it opens a too lower pressure, leaks before it fires or sprays a jet of diesel rather than a fine mist then they will recondition them for you. Paddocks do them fairly cheaply service exchange but i don't know who they get them from so quality could be ? Have you tried removing the union from the tank and the inlet to the filter and trying to blow it out with an airline from the filter end, if it has sucked something up from the tank it may have got through the pickup in the tank and is now stuck in the line. Your only other possibility i can think of then is the injection pump itself matt
  22. hi the gas produced is vaporized zinc which re acts with the air to make zinc oxide (white powder) inhaling this will give you flu like symptoms but go away after 48hrs and current research believes no harmful damage is done. There is also a small 0.9% max amount of lead which vaporizes at a much higher temperature so should be less of a problem. One of the better quality dust masks from B and Q etc should be ok, but i would still recommend welding outside and trying to keep out of the fumes as much as possible. Have a look at this for welding Galvanised steel I don't think it matters what type of arc welder is used, the technique is the same but you get a very different feel when welding with an inverter compared to a conventional welder. I was taught on 300amp oil cooled sets which could go all day and i prefer them to inverter type, however the inverters are still good for welding on site. mobyone did you mean 300 amps single phase in your post above not AC? A stick welder can not be alternating current or is that an inverter set (arc and Tig)which is very good value at £45 Using good quality electrodes and keeping them dry can make a lot of difference, but make sure you use the correct type rutile is good for general steel work and will be fine for your chassis but not to get a good quality result on an exhaust manifold (depending on material). Matt
  23. hi i would of thought if you spent a fair time doing them they should be ok, as nothing has been changed still original valves and the seats haven't been re cut. But if you hadn't refurbed the head you wouldn't have had the fun of grinding valves and spending hours cleaning bits At least you know its now good for another few thousand miles. matt
  24. hi as long as there is a constant grey line around the valve seat and the valve itself then thats fine, you can actually grind valves too far then it takes longer for them to open but for a LR diesel i shouldn't have thought it too critical. matt
  25. hi Clutch master cylinder ANR3894 Clutch slave cylinder ANR2967 Flexible hose ANR3344 the information is from LR parts program Microcat and the P38 4.6v8 manual is definitely listed in the options so i think your dealer wasn't really trying very hard. HTH matt
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy